Duragloss 501 and compounding/polishing

Mike Honcho

Mike Honcho

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My son and I just purchased a couple of 2013 cars that look like they visited the tunnel wash every week! The mother of all swirls and scratches! After washing, iron decon, and claying, we plan on using DG 501 to brighten up the paint, followed by FG400 and SF4000 to tackle the swirls and scratches. This sound right? Also, would I need to add 601 to the 501 since we'll be compounding and polishing it? Or will the 601 "bring something extra to the party?"
 
dg501 will deep clean the paint and some add protection but will not remove defects like a dedicated polish/compound. try doing a test spot first with sf4000 (try a few different pads) and if that doesn't yield the results you're looking for then step up to fg400. least aggressive first and work your way up...
 
I wouldn't bother with the DG501, Mike, if you're going to use FG400 and SF4000. Go right to your LSP after 4000.
 
Sounds like the 2013 cars were rental cars. The go through the swirl O' matic about 3 times a week. No need for 601 if you are going to polish afterward. 501 is a great cleaner though.
 
Why not use the 501 after the compounding??
 
Burgundy Kia and black Lexus. Both paints look dull and lifeless. (Plus the swirls and scratches.)
 
After. I mean it's arguably the least aggressive of the three; why would you use that first?
 
Mike Honcho said:
It's the least aggressive supposed to go first?
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That would be if you were trying to not use the other products...that's a test spot protocol, you start with the least aggressive and keep going more aggressive until the defects are removed.

Once you have found what aggressiveness level is required to remove the defects, you start with the most aggressive and move to the least aggressive. In this case since you've already said the cars are hammered and you are going to use FG400, you would start with that and move to the SF4000. I would agree with others that you won't need the 501 after unless you are using it for the sealant properties.
 
I've got a similar plan on a couple of "not-so-bad" black suv's in a couple of weeks. The plan is just like yours, but after the paint correction, I will use DG105 for its sealant properties. Then I will add a layer of DG111 a day or two later for shine and added longevity. Yes, definitely add the 601 to any of your DG LSPs.
 
501 AFTER. Yes it has a cleaner in it but it also has sealant. I would choose #105 after machine polishing myself. It is a sealant with very light cleaning ability where #501 is essentially a cleaner with light sealing ability. Either will look good though.
 
I wouldn't suggest 501 as your LSP. Not much durability and if i'm gonna compound and buff to remove swirls and scratches i would want a more durable LSP. Just my opinion.
 
In the words of Dr. Bunsen Honeydew....."Watch it Fizzzzzzz!";)
I've never noticed that reaction. I guess I use it as soon as it's mixed.
 
VISITOR said:
dg501 will deep clean the paint and some add protection but will not remove defects like a dedicated polish/compound. try doing a test spot first with sf4000 (try a few different pads) and if that doesn't yield the results you're looking for then step up to fg400. least aggressive first and work your way up...
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DG 501 is an excellent cleaner. The best way I've found to incorporate it into a paint improvement session is to compound and remove defects first and then follow that with DG 501 with a white B/S or equivalent pad. If your white pad is turning gray, you're still removing stuff from the paint. It probably will. Follow that up with wax or sealant but NOT a coating.
 
Puckman said:
I wouldn't suggest 501 as your LSP. Not much durability and if i'm gonna compound and buff to remove swirls and scratches i would want a more durable LSP. Just my opinion.
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Your comment has me curious. Have you said this because it didn't last for you? In my humble opinion, 501 is doing a double chore: cleaning and protecting. IMO if it's being primarily used (whether intentionally or not) for cleaning, then yes, it's already done its job and won't last long as protection. However, if that's not the case, (or you're putting a 2nd coat on with the aim of protection), I think you'll find it lasts very well. Don't forget that this product is designed to coat boats that sit in water 24/7.
 
richy said:
DG 501 is an excellent cleaner. The best way I've found to incorporate it into a paint improvement session is to compound and remove defects first and then follow that with DG 501 with a white B/S or equivalent pad. If your white pad is turning gray, you're still removing stuff from the paint. It probably will. Follow that up with wax or sealant but NOT a coating.
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I am glad you posted this suggestion. I was thinking about doing this process on an upcoming project. I have had great duration of DG#501 on roof and wheels. Plus, I will top the 501 with Clear Coat #111 after it cures anyway. Duration should be excellent. Thanks
 
richy said:
Your comment has me curious. Have you said this because it didn't last for you? In my humble opinion, 501 is doing a double chore: cleaning and protecting. IMO if it's being primarily used (whether intentionally or not) for cleaning, then yes, it's already done its job and won't last long as protection. However, if that's not the case, (or you're putting a 2nd coat on with the aim of protection), I think you'll find it lasts very well. Don't forget that this product is designed to coat boats that sit in water 24/7.
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My experience has been it hasn't lasted more than a month in my climate. I will say that i have only applied it with one layer however have tried it several times on several different paints. I do like how it cleans paint. My opinion stated above was simply based on my thought that FG400 followed by SF3800 would "clean" the paint adequately for an immediate LSP and one with more durability than what i've experienced. I didn't feel the "cleaner" step would be necessary after abrasion steps and that's what i use 501 for most...cleaning the paint and prepping it for LSP. The only thing i am still certain of is that it would not be my first step if i'm going to correct paint with an abrasive.

I greatly appreciate you asking for clarification, Richy. That's exactly why this forum is so helpful. And it's how you ask that is so gracious as well. I respect your work and your opinion greatly and will take another approach to 501, specifically adding more layers of it when used by itself on clean paint and trying it after correction with a white pad to see if it cleans anything left behind. I am certainly guilty of trying a product a certain way and finding how i used it wasn't as effective as it could be. Discussion here helps greatly in those instances.
 
Puckman said:
My experience has been it hasn't lasted more than a month in my climate. I will say that i have only applied it with one layer however have tried it several times on several different paints. I do like how it cleans paint. My opinion stated above was simply based on my thought that FG400 followed by SF3800 would "clean" the paint adequately for an immediate LSP and one with more durability than what i've experienced. I didn't feel the "cleaner" step would be necessary after abrasion steps and that's what i use 501 for most...cleaning the paint and prepping it for LSP. The only thing i am still certain of is that it would not be my first step if i'm going to correct paint with an abrasive.

I greatly appreciate you asking for clarification, Richy. That's exactly why this forum is so helpful. And it's how you ask that is so gracious as well. I respect your work and your opinion greatly and will take another approach to 501, specifically adding more layers of it when used by itself on clean paint and trying it after correction with a white pad to see if it cleans anything left behind. I am certainly guilty of trying a product a certain way and finding how i used it wasn't as effective as it could be. Discussion here helps greatly in those instances.
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Thanks for that. There is absolutely NOTHING to be accomplished by being rude in a response. Everyone lives in a different climate (especially on such a diverse forum as this one) and there is often not a one-style-fits-all answer. Even though I am guilty of not using DG Squeaky Clean (which is basically 501 without a sealant) as an extra step on cleaning the paint, it does make a difference. Why? It's cleaning chemically versus using abrasives. I find it amazing what I can pull out of paint when I use it or SC. I religiously use SC on barrels prior to coating b/c they are small and don't add too much time like it would to do it to the entire car. Now I wish I'd used it on my wife's Durango, LOL.

Thanks again for an engaging conversation! And please PM me when you do try it with a white pad after correcting to see if it did pull something else out. I'd be very interested to hear.
 
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