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I can't wait to see how some of the threads that contain "practical discussions" over on Autopia.org translates, whenever they transition to their new-forum's-format!Does every thread have to turn from a practical discussion to either;
A.) A chemistry debate.
B.) Advanced mathematics that in real world situations have minimal effect on the outcome. (Although I often measure my overlaps down to the .0005")
C.) A deep observation of mankind's common tendency in any given situation to disprove A.) or B.)
I can't wait to see how some of the threads that contain "practical discussions" over on Autopia.org translates, whenever they transition to their new-forum's-format!
You're a member of autopiaforums.com, aren't you?
Bob
Thanks for asking.What size pads do you use most often bob?
Does every thread have to turn from a practical discussion to either;
A.) A chemistry debate.
B.) Advanced mathematics that in real world situations have minimal effect on the outcome. (Although I often measure my overlaps down to the .0005")
C.) A deep observation of mankind's common tendency in any given situation to disprove A.) or B.)
I don't have a problem with you disagreeing with my above rule-of-thumb without you knowing which size(s) the pad will be that I choose for the most control possible over a particular paint's buffing process.I disagree with Bob
"-I use the smallest pad possible, for the most control possible
over the buffing process."
I think lots of us waste a lot of time using small pads
Which in turn may actually be the "smallest" pad that allows me to, once again: have the most control possible over the buffing process.the largest pad that I can effectively maintain full surface contact
What is your source of this interesting tidbit of information?A general rule that many of the "Pros" use is to maintain 50% compression of the pad.
The InterWeb
I will try and track down where this nugget came from and became imbedded in the Detailing Dedicated section of my grey stuff