Engine bay cleaning

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Newbycanoebee

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Greetings. I'm new to this forum and am in need of some assistance in kicking off a new business. I've been doing my own vehicles for as long as I can remember and have applied my focus on exterior and interior. Now that I am trying to move into a full time business I have the need to learn the best technique to achieve professional results on the engine bay.
I recently ran into a detailer at a gas station and he had the hood up on a 2008 Toyota Corolla S. It was absolutely first rate in terms of cleanliness and shine. He told me it took him 5 minutes and required product application and water rinse. I missed the opportunity to ask him what he used. Hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction on the product or some best demonstrated practices on doing a professional job without risking any damage to electronics, etc..

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Rick
 
I used either a degreaser or APC and some brushes. I avoid the pressure washer and just rinse with low pressure. I then blow dry the whole thing to remove any pools of water. I start and let the engine run for about 5 minutes to have everything dry.

I always cover the alternator and any electronic part or wires that I think could get wet.
 
When I cover electronics, I use Saran wrap-type cover instead of aluminum foil, to eliminate the slight possibility of a short, i.e. foil touching the back of an alternator where an open connection is.

Meguiars Super degreaser 4:1, sit for 5 mins., a medium coarseness brush, LIGHT rinse. I also wet the surface beneath the engine as well as both fenders and front grill/bumper. You want to keep rinsing that off as you rinse off the engine to prevent degreaser from contacting paint, etc. I also blow off standing water and run for 5-10 mins. then check to make sure there are no white spots left from cleaner residue.

Engine can not be hot obviously. Slightly warm at most is my limit.

Good luck; you'll do great.
 
I would also warn to keep coil packs in mind when flushing engine bays. Many (most/all?) modern cars have the coil on plug ignition, where the coil goes into the cylinder head (usually underneath plastic engine covers). I've seen a fair number of cars where they get water down in the spark plug wells and then it misfires. Because of this I tend to clean the engine covers by hand (still installed of course) and low pressure hose the rest.
 
If you are going to do it for business purposes, I would recommend letting the customers know it's not a full degrease of the entire block, and merely for looks. It kind of goes along the lines of what Mike P likes to say about "under promise, over perform". If you are going to do a lot of rinsing, and it's on the customers property, you should put something underneath the engine bay to absorb or catch the drippings. I do the same for really dirty wheels. It kind of leaves a bad image when you do a great job on their car, but stain the crap out of their driveway with oil and dirt residue.

I particularly don't do heavy rinsing. I don't keep a water source when going mobile, and use more of a waterless wash method. I use an all purpose cleaner with a spray bottle, and can control the spray enough that I don't bother covering up anything. I wet this further with the same product I use for waterless wash on the exterior of the car. I use a combination of a wheel brush, bendable raccoon tail brush, and toothbrush style brushes to agitate the dirty areas. Then I give it a very light rinse with waterless wash just to wet it lagain, and start wiping it all clean with microfiber towels. I wrap a towel around the raccoon tail to get the hard to reach areas. Because I don't do a heavy rinse, I dont blow dry the areas because it'll leave some extra residue where it dries, so I dry it as I wipe them clean. Also because I don't do a heavy risne, I dont really have alot to dry up either, and alot of the cleaning comes from wiping, and not necessarily washing. What I have found with heavy rinsing is that a lot of areas like hoses and painted portions will require you to wipe them clean anyway, so I just do it in one step. After I get it all dry, I use the same dressing as I use on the interior (Chemical Guys Silk Shine) and spray it pretty liberally all over. Then I wipe it all off and rub it in until it looks dry. Everyone will have their preference on dressing, and I use the interior one because that's how I was taught and it leaves a satin sheen which looks more natural than being glossy. I understand you can wipe a glossy dressing to make it more of a matte finish, but you actually have to wipe every single nook and cranny to get the glossy off. The silk shine, even where it's wet, will dry to a satin finish, so it's not so critical to wipe every last corner. I usually spend about 20-30 minutes on an engine detail and charge about $30. These were my personal vehicles I've done in the past.

2005 Tahoe
View attachment 49556
2004 F150 (not the best angle, and I do notice I missed aa spot in the front passenger side cowling which I fixed after the pic)
View attachment 49557
2004 Wrangler
View attachment 49558
 
Awesome tips, guys. Great stuff and will definitely apply your recommendations.

Rick
 
3D Orange 88 degreaser, dwell about 3-5 min power wash off. I would rather a pressure washer because it injects air too so very little water used to get in components as apposed to FLODDING it with a low pressure garden hose.
 
Definitely cover the alternator, fuse boxes, distributor cap "older cars" with some type of plastic and or saran wrap. Some may argue differently or say you don't have to, while that maybe true the first time you detail and engine bay and the car doesn't fire you'll kick yourself. Every post here thus far should be followed.

I use APC and or degreaser, plus Speed Master wheel brush and the Jr. speed master for tight areas. This really knocks all the dirt out of the nooks and crannies, and efficient regarding time, because time is money. Last, light mist of water to rinse, don't use a strong jet as this may introduce water into places you don't want, which can cause an electrical issue. Run the engine or blast some air to dry, last a trim detailer to get that nice shine, I like an aerosol can for this.

Last really think about attending Mike's Competition Ready Detailing class. Your skills will improve and your detailing knowledge accelerated like you wouldn't believe. Its a great investment in yourself and in your business.
 
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