Extreme Newb with a TON of questions

Blackbird96

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Hey Guys,
I've been driving for almost 20 years now and for most of my driving life, my detailing experience including washing a car, drying a car, & waxing it and dusting off and AmorAll-ing the interior a few times a year. I've have recently clay barred for the first time but I have never wet sanded or machine buffed before in my life.....so I have a hell of a lot to learn to get me on the right track!



The reason I'm on this forum is I was on another car forum and posed the question "what is the best (longest lasting) wax?" What I thought was a simple answer that would narrow down the field to 5-8 different possibilities open a can of worms I didn't know existed! lol This leads to one of my first questions:
What is the difference between sealant and wax if I just want to protect the paint (and not too worried about shine)? is there a reason to wax over a sealant if they both kind of do the same thing?


I read the description on the permanent coating stating that they “feature a resin technology that permanently bonds to the paint, creating a mirror like shine” and also read the description of the Optimum Opti-coat 2 that states “is a clear resin coating, much like the clear coat that already exists on your vehicle” but, what is the benefit of doing a Permanent Sealer if what it does is add another layer of clear coat and doesn't help repel water, dirt grime, etc?


When you do an AIO vs. a straight swirl remover (assuming only light swirls or scratched are apparent)?


I understand the difference between a waffle weave and regular microfiber towel but What is the difference from one towel to another as far as wax removal, polish removal, etc? Is one more prone to scratching the paint than other?


I tried the 2 bucket system when washing the vehicle but now I just rinse the mitt off each time before I put it back in the bucket; is this just as effective? When I did the 2 bucket system, the crud seemed to float around in the bucket (no matter how soft or hard I dunked the mitt) and took forever for the contaminants to sink.


I did do a search for most of these questions but did not come up with answers so I hope my over newbie questions can be answered without aggravating anyone!
 
:welcome: to AGO


Not trying to be a Butt here but break down your questions and start a new thread and you will get more answers to your questions. :props:
 
WOW, now this is the way to say hello!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Welcome to Autogeek Online!!

OK, I'll take a crack to get this started...

Sealant vs Wax

Sealants are man made or a "synthetic wax", Sealants actually cross-link and bond to the finish. Sealants have come a long way over the past 10 years or so and will actually rival some of the finest waxes and far exceed waxes durability.

Wax is a more natural product typically containing various grades of carnauba. Rather than bond, waxes sit on top of the finish. Waxes typically give the finish a warmer glow and a deeper wet shine.

If used together, sealants should be applied to a freshly polished finish, allowed to cure, and wax as the final step.

1-Step or Full Correction


All-in-ones or 1-step products do a nice job at removing oxidation, grime, and minor surface defects. The latest products do a damn nice job and leave some protection behind.

Compounding and Polishing are the purest way of turning an ordinary finish to a glass-like shine. There is really no comparison between the two but your goal and satisfaction will dictate your approach..

Coatings

Several manufactures are now offering urethane coating that are literally permanent. Once the finish is properly prepared, these new coatings add a layer of protection that's actually more durable than the clear coat.

While these coatings might be harder they are much thinner than a factory applied clear so don't confuse the two but they are very good and easy to apply.

Starting Off


Everyone starts off as a beginner but with some reading, questions, and trial, error, and practice you'll be amazed how much you'll be able to do. After reading and understanding some of the basics, the more hands on, the quicker you'll build your knowledge and gain experience.

This link will take you to some fabulous articles written by Mike Phillips.

Articles by Mike Phillips

Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Make detailing enjoyable and practice. Take your time and do not become overwhelmed. Just because there are a thousand products doesn't mean you have to use them all. [FONT=&quot]

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The Porter Cable 7424xp


Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you.


Sealants


Traditional Sealants


Wipe On and Walk Away



A Product for Every Phase

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar’s Clay
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)
Sealant - CarPro Reload
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax -Optimum Spray Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard
Wheel Cleaner - Meguiar's Wheel Brightener
Wheel Protectant -Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Interior Protectant - Meguiar’s M40
Chrome & Stainless Steel - BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Metal Acrylic Sealant


Compounds & Polishes



MenzernaChart3.jpg



Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam
- Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad
- Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.

Red Ultra-soft Wax/Sealant Foam - This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.
 
A Product for Every Phase

Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)


If I wanted to skip a step, after compounding, can I do a polish and skip the finish polish? In other words, if I wanted only 1 step after compounding, which would it be?


Personally, if I were to use 1 polish it would be - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA). This polish has a decent cut and finishes up super glossy....:props:

MenzernaChart3.jpg
 
Thank you VERY Much for all of you insights, answers and Links Bobby G!! I think I will be able to find my answers to all my questions (the few you didn't answer!) in those links.
 
:welcome: to AGO


Not trying to be a Butt here but break down your questions and start a new thread and you will get more answers to your questions. :props:

Hey dad07, no offense taken. I learned after my initial question of "best wax?" that I kind of didn't know what I was asking (and kinda still don't!) Also, I learned on other forums that if I ask a question that seems like common knowledge, everybody that answers types the "use the search function" answer; that's why I was somewhat apprehensive to start a thread for each question.

I can tear apart any part of a car, (engine suspension, tans, etc) but I still have a hard time removing certain waxes from my car! For Example: If someone asked the question - "How to I get my Challenger R/T in the 12s in the Quarter?", I could answer that 30 different ways between converters, tires, cam, superchargers, nitrous, etc. I kinda thought my a question like the "longest lasting wax?" would be more akin to "what supercharger can make the most HP on a pump gas daily driven Car?" which would (generally) narrow it down to 3-4 choices.... but trying to learn the nuances and differences between sealers vs. waxes vs. carnuba vs. synthetic makes my head go ---> :bash:
 
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