Feeling stupid, need help.

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buddybash

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After spending hours on here trying to figure out what to buy I have to say I am confused. Being new to all this leaves me with countless questions. So... if you guys could provide me some input on what to buy that would be great! I would like to get good quality products and if that means pay a bit more I am okay with that.
Keep in mind I will need to buy everything to do this I pretty much have nothing but a hose and two buckets at the moment. I have a 20% off coupon and I think it would be best if I did not by bundles since the discount does not apply to many of them, I rather piece together the best.
Step 1: Wash - Here I plan to use the 2BM and foam gun.
What foam gun do you recommend? What soap should I use to get the car prepped for a full detail (leaves paint clean, ready for clay, wax and sealant, etc)
Step 2: Detailing Clay
What clay should I use and what clay lubricant?
Step 3: Compound
What product do you recommend?
Which DA should I purchase?
I understand for a newbie a DA is the best way to go since I will not accidently remove paint. However, rotary is the best from what I read and has a lot more potientail.
The car has swirl marks all throughout and some minor scartches, would it be a better option to get the rotary? If so, which one?
Step 4: Swirl Remover
What product should I use to removal all swril marks?
Step 5: FInishing Polish
What product should I use?
Step 6: Glaze
Should I use anything? Since it just enhances the shine. If so, what product.
Step 7: Paint Sealant
What product shoudl I use?
Step 8: Quick Detailer
From my understand I should Use this once a month just to prolong the shine, is that correct?

Also, what pads will I need? and anything else I might be missing.

Thanks!
 
This is from Renny Doyles book: "Today, I perform $2,000 to $50,000 details and rarely touch a high speed polisher"

Also from his book:

"One tool immediately comes to mind, the Flex XC3401, and with good reason. I was a skeptic when I first learned of this tool. After spending a couple of hundred hours with the 3401, I was shocked at this tool's capabilities and was eager to expand my knowledge of it even further. This tool is the best of both worlds"

Hope that helps
 
hernandez.art13 said:
This is from Renny Doyles book: "Today, I perform $2,000 to $50,000 details and rarely touch a high speed polisher"

Also from his book:

"One tool immediately comes to mind, the Flex XC3401, and with good reason. I was a skeptic when I first learned of this tool. After spending a couple of hundred hours with the 3401, I was shocked at this tool's capabilities and was eager to expand my knowledge of it even further. This tool is the best of both worlds"

Hope that helps
Click to expand...

Just watched a video "how to" video from Mike demonstrating this tool and I am sold on the Flex XC3401.

One product selected, many more I need help with.
 
For my recommendations, I'm assuming that you want to order everything from Autogeek. Keep in mind 10 people will probably have 10 different answers based on their personal opinions of products.

Step 1: Foam gun is great to have, but not necessarily a necessity starting out. If you want one, whichever size of the foamaster guns will work fine. If you have an air compressor, the foam cannon will give better foam, but also is a higher price. I like Chemical Guys Honeydew soap in a foam gun and a bucket wash.

Step 2: I started out with using Meguiars and Mothers clay, but I am loving the Nanoskin fine grade Speedy Prep Sponge. I would get both, as each has its merits. I think the sponge is easier and quicker to use, and you can just rinse it off if you drop it. Clay is easier to use in small areas and on body lines and curves. For clay lube I would buy a product like DP Rinseless Wash & Gloss or Ultima Waterless Wash Concentrate. These products can be used as a clay lube, rinseless/waterless wash, and quick detailer depending on dilution used.

Step 3: I started with Porter Cable, but would recommend the Griots Garage 6 inch polisher due to its greater power. The GG comes with a 6" backing plate, but I would recommend buying a 5" plate and 5.5" flat pads, as smaller size pads will help with pad rotation and an easier learning curve being that you are new to using a Dual Action polisher. Start off with a minimum of 2 orange pads, 2 white, and a grey, blue or red for applying your wax or sealant. More pads are always better of course, as you don't have to stop to clean them as often for big jobs.

Step 3-6: I would stick with products in the same line to start. Two brands that come to mind are Wolfgang and Menzerna. The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 (TSR) and Finishing Glaze 3.0 are highly rated and easy to use. The TSR can act like a compound and medium polish depending on pad used, and the Finishing Glaze is actually considered a finishing polish and glaze.
From Menzerna I would recommend FG 400 if you need a strong compound, SI 1500 for heavy/medium polish, and SF 4000 for final polish.

Step 7: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is an excellent product, and would work well with the above listed products.

Step 8: QD is optional. The DP and Ultima products I listed above would work in this capacity, or you could use a spray wax such as Meguiars Quick Wax or Synthetic Spray Wax, or Duragloss AquaWax to prolong your sealants protection and add shine & slickness after washing.

Add some good microfiber towels for polish/wax removal, and maybe some good drying towels, and you should be on your way!
 
What are you working on?

What is your goal?

Here is an article on how to determine the condition of your paint
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/38689-what-condition-paint-your-vehicles.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43192-let-there-light.html

Here is an article on definitions as this will help you clear up some confusion
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nds-polishes-glazes-paint-cleaners-waxes.html

Here is an article on how to pick the right polisher for your detailing project
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...car-garage-video-how-pick-right-polisher.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...se-right-polisher-your-detailing-project.html

Step 1: Wash - Here I plan to use the 2BM and foam gun.
What foam gun do you recommend? What soap should I use to get the car prepped for a full detail (leaves paint clean, ready for clay, wax and sealant, etc)

Gilmore Foam gun is cheap and easy to use not need for a power washer. Soap there are a ton! I like Chemical guys Maxi Suds II in my foam gun.


Step 2: Detailing Clay
What clay should I use and what clay lubricant?

Get any fin or mild clay. You can get a clay bar and lube in a combo kit.

Step 3: Compound
What product do you recommend?

Determine the condition of your paint before thinking about a compound as you may not need this.

Which DA should I purchase?
I understand for a newbie a DA is the best way to go since I will not accidently remove paint. However, rotary is the best from what I read and has a lot more potientail.
The car has swirl marks all throughout and some minor scartches, would it be a better option to get the rotary? If so, which one?

Many here will highly recommend the Griots Garage DA as this is safe but has a ton of power for correction. Look at all the DA kits that AG has to offer.

Step 4: Swirl Remover
What product should I use to removal all swril marks?

Any Polish like Meguiars M205 will remove swirls to a certain limit.

Step 5: FInishing Polish
What product should I use?

I tend to like Menzerna 4000 for a finishing polish

Step 6: Glaze
Should I use anything? Since it just enhances the shine. If so, what product.

I think you will be fine with out a glaze.

Step 7: Paint Sealant
What product shoudl I use?

Again many to pick from bit I like Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint sealant.

Step 8: Quick Detailer
From my understand I should Use this once a month just to prolong the shine, is that correct?

These can be used after every wash to keep up the shine and protection
Click to expand...

Answer are in red.

Take a look at those links as well! :props:
 
buddybash said:
Just watched a video "how to" video from Mike demonstrating this tool and I am sold on the Flex XC3401.

One product selected, many more I need help with.
Click to expand...

In my previous post I recommended the GG6 because most people choose a true DA polisher starting out, but if you have decided on the 3401 I think it is a great choice.

I recently purchased the Flex, and I love it. Alot of people think that a beginner should start with a non forced rotation DA first, but if I had it to do over again I would have started out with the 3401. The learning curve to me wasn't any greater than the PC.

If you decide to go with the Flex, either get the 4 3/8" backing plate and 5.5" hydrotech pads, or the Lake Country backing plate system and 5" hybrid pads. The Flex comes with a 5.5" backing plate that is meant to be used with 6.5" pads. The Flex is alot smoother and easier to control with pads 5.5" or smaller.
 
Evan.J said:
What are you working on?

What is your goal?

Here is an article on how to determine the condition of your paint
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/38689-what-condition-paint-your-vehicles.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43192-let-there-light.html

Here is an article on definitions as this will help you clear up some confusion
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nds-polishes-glazes-paint-cleaners-waxes.html

Here is an article on how to pick the right polisher for your detailing project
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...car-garage-video-how-pick-right-polisher.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...se-right-polisher-your-detailing-project.html



Answer are in red.

Take a look at those links as well! :props:
Click to expand...

I have a lot more reading to do, thank you for providing the helpful links!

Everyone on here is veryful
 
Dan K said:
In my previous post I recommended the GG6 because most people choose a true DA polisher starting out, but if you have decided on the 3401 I think it is a great choice.

I recently purchased the Flex, and I love it. Alot of people think that a beginner should start with a non forced rotation DA first, but if I had it to do over again I would have started out with the 3401. The learning curve to me wasn't any greater than the PC.

If you decide to go with the Flex, either get the 4 3/8" backing plate and 5.5" hydrotech pads, or the Lake Country backing plate system and 5" hybrid pads. The Flex comes with a 5.5" backing plate that is meant to be used with 6.5" pads. The Flex is alot smoother and easier to control with pads 5.5" or smaller.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input, really the learning curve is my concern. The "how to" videos and the articles posted on this thread are very helpful. Always hard when you are starting out, great to have some guidance.
 
Will the Flex 3401 handle all my polishing needs?
I ask because I was watching a how-to video and he used 4 different polishers, 3 DAs and 1 rotary to get all the concave and convex portions of the car.
 
It will depend on your expectations, the Flex 3401 will make a significant difference. (Of course technique always comes first)

But then you might see slight imperfections,

A lot of Detailers can do the job with a DA (without forced rotation, a lot of it has to do with skill)

^ So like stated above, it will depend on your technique and expectations.
 
You've gotten a lot of good suggestions already, my advice is not to stress out too much about all the choices, there are so many good products today it's hard to make a bad choice.
 
buddybash said:
Just watched a video "how to" video from Mike demonstrating this tool and I am sold on the Flex XC3401.

One product selected, many more I need help with.
Click to expand...


Rupes 15 or 21 you need to take a look at that too, I just got the 21 and it's awesome. Glad I bought it over the Flex.
 
custmsprty said:
Rupes 15 or 21 you need to take a look at that too, I just got the 21 and it's awesome. Glad I bought it over the Flex.
Click to expand...

Does the Rupes able to use different pad sizes?

I was reading more about the Flex and it seems currently only one size is available.
 
isakhanyan said:
Does the Rupes able to use different pad sizes?

I was reading more about the Flex and it seems currently only one size is available.
Click to expand...

There is only one Flex but can take different size pads

Rupes can do 6.5" pads and 5.5" pads
 
This is going turn into a rupes flex discussion

I think you should get two compounds one that cuts hard like m101 and fg400 just to be on the safe side
 
For those who have either a Rupes or Flex what do you guys use for areas that require a smaller pad size? For example like the roof.
 
Roof is better with bigger pads like 6.5" is available.

This for your personal car? Parked outside? Daily driver?

You don't need many machines, get the Flex 3401 with Hybrid pads.

Tried it out this past weekend and wish I can spring for it, I already have too many machines.
 
The flex with the hybrid pads is a killer fort sure its a match made in heaven!
 
Wheelzntoys said:
Roof is better with bigger pads like 6.5" is available.

This for your personal car? Parked outside? Daily driver?

You don't need many machines, get the Flex 3401 with Hybrid pads.

Tried it out this past weekend and wish I can spring for it, I already have too many machines.
Click to expand...

Personal car, daily driver but barely any highway miles, and the car is garage kept but since it is my daily it does see outside parking from time to time.

So the Flex 3401 with hybrid pads is the best way to go you say. My roof has a dual sunroof that is why I am concerned about the 6.5 pad being to large
 
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