Fiberglass Camper detail

01chevys10zr2

01chevys10zr2

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Hello everyone, I have my first fiberglass camper detail coming up. I checked out the camper a couple days ago and the gel coat is in decent condition but is slightly oxidized. The last time the camper was waxed was about two years ago because of health issues. So I purchased Meguiars Oxidation Removal kit and I already own a Porter Cable 7424xp, Lake country yellow, orange, and blue foam pads and a lake country lambswool pad. I was wondering what pad I should start out with? Should I start with the yellow and if that isn't good enough then go up to the wool? What speed should I run my porter cable during these three steps?
Any help would be great!
Thanks, Nick
 
If it had a wax job two years ago and the gel coat looks decent all it probably need is a little life brought back to it. Just polish it with an AIO it should come out good.

Make sure you clean the roof first. Make sure the roof has no dirt on it.
 
Ok thanks! I will try to take some before and after photos when I start the job.
Have a good weekend.
 
01chevys10zr2 said:
Hello everyone, I have my first fiberglass camper detail coming up. I checked out the camper a couple days ago and the gel coat is in decent condition but is slightly oxidized.

So I purchased Meguiars Oxidation Removal kit and I already own a Porter Cable 7424xp, Lake country yellow, orange, and blue foam pads and a lake country lambswool pad.
Click to expand...

With what you have you should be able to tackle this job no problem.


01chevys10zr2 said:
I was wondering what pad I should start out with?
Should I start with the yellow and if that isn't good enough then go up to the wool?
Click to expand...

If this is the kit you have,

Meguiars Fiberglass Restoration System M4965

Step 1: 16 oz. Meguiars Marine Oxidation Remover # 49
Meguiars # 49 is a heavy duty cleaner for the stains, oxidation, and scratches that affect older fiberglass gelcoats. Oxidation Remover eliminates the chalky, cloudy signs of oxidation and restores the vibrant color to the gelcoat. Most scratches, stubborn stains, and water spots will disappear, leaving only smooth, shiny fiberglass.

Step 2: 16 oz. Meguiars Marine RV High Gloss Polish # 45
After using #49, you’ll want to restore the optimum gloss to the gelcoat. Meguiars High Gloss Polish # 45 nourishes the gelcoat with oils to enhance its luster. High Gloss Polish is nonabrasive. To draw a parallel with car care, # 45 acts more like a pre-wax cleanser that boosts the shine before the application of wax.

Step 3: 16 oz. Meguiars Marine RV Pure Wax # 56
The last step is Meguiars Pure Wax # 56. This rich carnauba blend deepens and maintains the gloss created by Meguiars High Gloss Polish. Pure Wax’s special formula is enhanced with polymers and resins to form a tough barrier against salt water, UV rays, and environmental contaminants. Use it to protect and beautify your boat or RV.


If the above is what you have then you're going to want to TEST the M49 with the Orange pad. Test to see if that will get the job done.

M49 is very aggressive, this means you shouldn't have to use the most aggressive pads to remove LIGHT oxidation.

So test first.

M45 is non-abrasive and is primarily for rejuvenating dried out gel-coats to restore gloss and richness of color.

M56 is the cousin to M26, both are what Meguiar's calls "Pure Waxes" which means they are Show Car Waxes or non-cleaning waxes.

So all the grunt work needs to be done using the M49.

Do you have any other polishes or cleaner/waxes?

You could probably do the job as well and faster using a good one-step cleaner/wax or a medium cut polish if the oxidation is light like you describe.

Also, wool pads don't do much when used on DA Polishers like the PC, Megs and Griot's type.


01chevys10zr2 said:
What speed should I run my porter cable during these three steps?
Any help would be great!
Thanks, Nick
Click to expand...

Maxed out at the 6 setting for all but the waxing steps.


:)
 
Also, anytime you're removing oxidation of paint or gel-coats you're going to want to clean the face of your buffing pads OFTEN.

That's because you're going to have a lot of dead, oxidized gel-coat building up on the face of the pad plus the spent product, that is used-up compound or polish.

Same would apply if you're using a one-step cleaner/wax, you will have dead, oxidized gel-coat and spent cleaner/wax building up on the face of your pad.

I made a video this week showing how to clean your pad on the fly, it's one of the most requested videos I've ever been asked to make. So I made one.

Here's the link,

Video: How to clean your pad on the fly


If this technique helps you then maybe post a comment to that effect in the above thread.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks Mike! Well maybe the camper is a little more than slightly oxidized. So if I try #49 with the orange pad and its still not looking as good as I want it to can I step up to the yellow pad? The camper is a 1995, has always stayed outside uncovered (in Northeast PA) but I was told by the owner he waxed it once every couple years.
Thanks again for all your help.
-Nick
 
This is a very timely post.

I just purchased a new 2011 EverGreen Ever-lite 33QBK with a fiberglass cap and gel-coat exterior. It has been sitting in a field since Jan, and would like to bring it to it's peak shine. My question is I am trying to decide between a light Meguiars polish or Duragloss 501.

My main concern is I read nightmare stories around what I should do and not do from a vinyl graphic perspective. Do I really need to stay off the graphics, or is it okay to go over lightly. And is the main reason for graphic issues do to petroleum in products?

Any advise as always is much appreciated.

Currently I using 303 to protect and it doesn't last very long.....
 
to use a da on this job isnt the best way. But if thats all you have then to me I would wet sand it 1st to help you out in the long run.When you dont get rid of all the bad gel-coat its just going to come back real fast as in days 30 to 60.I have done over 500 boats 300 rvs. and maybe 50 cars. gel-coat is my thing.ps more prep less buffing is the way to go.
 
master detailer said:
to use a da on this job isnt the best way. But if thats all you have then to me I would wet sand it 1st to help you out in the long run.
Click to expand...

I know it's never a good idea to assume but sometimes that's what a person has to do using the limited information provided by a forum member.

The OP of this thread, Nick stated he has a Porter Cable 7424XP. He didn't say he has a rotary buffer.

If a person is going to wetsand a gel-coat surface they really need a rotary buffer to remove the sanding marks and they really need to be proficient with it from experience.

Can a person that's never sanded and buffed using a rotary buffer tackle a project like this? You bet, especially with help from a forum like this. That said, I don't think it's a good idea to recommend to people to start sanding down their campers if you don't know if they have the right tools and experience for this kind of advanced process.

I agree that because gel-coats tend to be thicker than factory clear coat paints that there is a lot LESS room for making a mistake and that IF a person has the experience, tools and resources to sand down a gel-coat surface and then buff out their sanding marks then for neglected gel-coat surfaces this is a more certain approach.

Fact is, without being there in person, (best), or a really good picture, (second best), to show the extent of the oxidation none of us can really know what the best approach is.

I do know what the SAFEST approach is and that's for Nick to do a Test Spot with the tools and products he already has and then share the results with us especially if what he has isn't working.

Doing a Test Spot first is important because it's going to indicate really fast if his approach will work to one small area and if it's not it will save him from wasting his time using a process that's not working over the rest of the camper.


How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)


:)
 
sillybinaries said:
This is a very timely post.

I just purchased a new 2011 EverGreen Ever-lite 33QBK with a fiberglass cap and gel-coat exterior. It has been sitting in a field since Jan, and would like to bring it to it's peak shine.
Click to expand...


Here's a suggestion, go ahead and start your own dedicated thread.

Tagging on to someone else's thread is okay but it's just as easy to start your own dedicated thread and that way keep all the discussions for each of these projects focused to the specific projects.

If possible, can you post a picture of this project so we can see it?


:)
 
My apologies, I will take a few pictures this weekend and start as new thread.

thanks!
 
Thanks guys for your input. I do not have the camper right now but when I do I will take a couple pics and upload them to here. I will try them all and see which works best as you guys stated. I also do not feel conform able sanding it down especially since I never wet sanded a vehicle or camper.
Thanks again.
 
sillybinaries said:
This is a very timely post.

I just purchased a new 2011 EverGreen Ever-lite 33QBK with a fiberglass cap and gel-coat exterior. It has been sitting in a field since Jan, and would like to bring it to it's peak shine. My question is I am trying to decide between a light Meguiars polish or Duragloss 501.

My main concern is I read nightmare stories around what I should do and not do from a vinyl graphic perspective. Do I really need to stay off the graphics, or is it okay to go over lightly. And is the main reason for graphic issues do to petroleum in products?

Any advise as always is much appreciated.

Currently I using 303 to protect and it doesn't last very long.....
Click to expand...


I have a 2011 Everlight TT that I've had for two years that sits outside 100% of the time. I just wash it up with nice wash soap and this year put a coat of liquid glass on it and it looks great! I would say use any long lasting sealant and your good to go. Yes I went right over all the graphics.
 
Hey guys one more question, can I use my LC orange pad for the oxidation remover (#49), clean it thoroughly and then use it for the high gloss polish (#45)? The reason I ask is because the only pads I have as of now are lake country's yellow, orange, and blue pads.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Also, anytime you're removing oxidation of paint or gel-coats you're going to want to clean the face of your buffing pads OFTEN.

That's because you're going to have a lot of dead, oxidized gel-coat building up on the face of the pad plus the spent product, that is used-up compound or polish.

Same would apply if you're using a one-step cleaner/wax, you will have dead, oxidized gel-coat and spent cleaner/wax building up on the face of your pad.

I made a video this week showing how to clean your pad on the fly, it's one of the most requested videos I've ever been asked to make. So I made one.

Here's the link,

Video: How to clean your pad on the fly


If this technique helps you then maybe post a comment to that effect in the above thread.


:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

When I first tryed cleaning the pad on the fly I got the towel wrapped Inside my GG6, one hour later of cussing and cutting the towel out(couldn't even get the wrench in to remove the Plate) I finally removed it. When I buffed out my 30ft fiberlglass trailer with my GG6 I had good luck with a microfiber bunched up scrubing the pad. I cleaning it like this every section.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
 
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