First time detailing with a Hitachi SP18VA... any advice?

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RakuArtist

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Newbie here... just bought a new Hitachi SP18VA Polisher/Sander for detailing my own two cars. This was before I discovered so much information online about "dual-action polishers" verses "rotary polishers". I had thought I was buying the right polisher (and in fact I may have) yet I'm reading all this stuff here and elsewhere about how dual-action polishers are really the best kind for beginners, and rotary polishers are best left for experienced users (I'm surmising here).

So... before I launch off into detailing my 2001 Eddie Bauer Ford Expedition with my Hitachi polisher, I thought I'd check with you all and see if I'm going about this the right way here.

First I might add I'm not messing with trying to sell my new Hitachi and picking up a DA polisher in its place. I'm just going to have to be careful here and learn "on the fly" so-to-speak... hopefully, it won't turn out disastrous.

I understand that I must be cautious and work in 1 sq. ft. sections at a time, keeping the speeds at or below 600 so as not to burn the paint... correct? Also... keeping the polisher moving constantly 2-3 inches every couple of seconds, correct?

Any tips, advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not looking to put my SUV in a car show... just restore the paint, get rid of any oxidation, and make it look new again, as well as protect it.

Thanks in advance for your time and anything you can offer. Feed back please
Please look for my post today in the "Auto Detailing 101" forum... I have a few questions about how to use my foam pads with certain products properly... thanks!

Best wishes!
 
I would ditch the rotary and get your money back. Then buy a Porter Cable from Autogeek. You can do some serious polishing with the PC with the right pads and products. Some pictures of your Ford would help!
 
The hitachi is an awesome rotary. Its not as hard as everyone makes it seem to learn how to use one correctly and get some fantastic results. I learned to polish using a rotary and just recently picked up a DA mostly for sanding and the ocassional finishing of stubborn soft paint. If it was my decision, keep the rotary and start slow with less aggressive compounds and pads until you get the feel for what can be done, then make adjustments to technique and you'll be amazed how well it works for you.
 
It was my first rotary ... the green machine !
 
Welcome to the site.

There is a lot of fear surrounding a newbie with a rotary polisher, and rightly so as the tool can definitely do damage. The rotary polisher is a tool that can produce amazing results if used correctly. The rotary should not be feared but should be respected for the damage that it can cause and also for the amazing results that can be had with it when used properly.

Damage can occur in the way of burned paint as a result of holding it in one area for too long or from running the speed too fast and not moving the machine with sufficient arm speed. Damage can and will also occur when spinning a rotating pad over a sharp painted edge such as the edges of doors, hoods or around headlights or the license plate areas of many vehicles.

Damage can also occur when buffing paint on a plastic or rubber bumper because the plastic or rubber bumper material will not dissipate heat as efficiently as a steel panel will so the heat from friction builds up, the paint gets soft, you tilt the buffer a little in the wrong direction and the pad grabs and peels or wrinkles the paint right off of the bumper.

Side mirrors are another area where damage can easily occur because with the rounded shape of most side mirrors there will be very minimum contact between the pad and the paint and the friction is concentrated in that little spot, the spot heats up in a flash and before you even know it you burn through the paint.

Having said all of that, there was a day when the rotary buffer was all that there was available to most people buffing paint and practice was and is required to get through the learning curve of using the tool.

It would certainly be best if you had an experienced rotary user there to guide you through your first detail, or it may be best for you to practice on a beater car where if it gets damaged it will be no big deal.

A rotary polisher can easily rip trim pieces off of cars if it is allowed to get wedged into a tight area with a trim piece present. The spinning pad can grab such trim pieces pretty hard and cause damage to them. Watch the cord too as it can easily get wrapped up around the pad and start slapping you right in the neck and face until the tool comes to a stop. It hurts when this happens.

A lot of new rotary users will purchase a salvage yard hood or other panel in which to practice on before going after their own vehicle with the rotary buffer. I was not one of these careful guys, I just started slow on my own car and quickly gained confidence and tested many different pads and products on my car. Now as a result of the many practice sessions buffing away on my Buick, I have thinned the clear to the point that it is failing as a result of the ultra violet protection being buffed away.

I was on a mission to master the rotary and while I have gotten pretty good with a rotary, I believe it is the type of tool that as soon as you think that you have mastered it you get over confident and end up making a mistake with it.

As far as the speeds that you posted are concerned, It wouldn't be a bad idea to start out as a beginner at 600 R.P.M. but compounding and polishing are typically done at between 1000 and 2000 R.P.M. Again, it would be a good idea to start out slow and on flat panels only. (tape off any and all edges and gaps between panels until you have a "good feel" for rotary polishing.

The 1 foot square working area will work well when using a DA polisher but when operating a rotary you will want to at least double that area as working in a 1 foot squared area will likely generate too much heat.

Again with a DA polisher, 2 to 3 inches every couple of seconds may be a good polishing speed (slower if compounding) but you may want to move your new rotary a little faster until you get the feel for what the results will be.

The nice thing is that the Eddie Bauer will "likely" (not definitely) have pretty hard paint that should be somewhat resilient or forgiving for learning how to operate your new polisher. I suggest that you start out with 6" or 6.5" pads and a finishing polish and go slow until you get the hang of it.

These are not just made up horror stories, these things can and do happen if you are not 100% completely focused on what you are doing.

Don't fear it just respect it, go slow and pay attention to what you are doing.

The biggest piece of advice that I can offer is that if burning the paint on it will be the end of the world, don't polish it with the rotary until you first have a "good feel" for the polisher.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Welcome to the site.

There is a lot of fear surrounding a newbie with a rotary polisher, and rightly so as the tool can definitely do damage. The rotary polisher is a tool that can produce amazing results if used correctly. The rotary should not be feared but should be respected for the damage that it can cause and also for the amazing results that can be had with it when used properly.

Damage can occur in the way of burned paint as a result of holding it in one area for too long or from running the speed too fast and not moving the machine with sufficient arm speed. Damage can and will also occur when spinning a rotating pad over a sharp painted edge such as the edges of doors, hoods or around headlights or the license plate areas of many vehicles.

Damage can also occur when buffing paint on a plastic or rubber bumper because the plastic or rubber bumper material will not dissipate heat as efficiently as a steel panel will so the heat from friction builds up, the paint gets soft, you tilt the buffer a little in the wrong direction and the pad grabs and peels or wrinkles the paint right off of the bumper.

Side mirrors are another area where damage can easily occur because with the rounded shape of most side mirrors there will be very minimum contact between the pad and the paint and the friction is concentrated in that little spot, the spot heats up in a flash and before you even know it you burn through the paint.

Having said all of that, there was a day when the rotary buffer was all that there was available to most people buffing paint and practice was and is required to get through the learning curve of using the tool.

It would certainly be best if you had an experienced rotary user there to guide you through your first detail, or it may be best for you to practice on a beater car where if it gets damaged it will be no big deal.

A rotary polisher can easily rip trim pieces off of cars if it is allowed to get wedged into a tight area with a trim piece present. The spinning pad can grab such trim pieces pretty hard and cause damage to them. Watch the cord too as it can easily get wrapped up around the pad and start slapping you right in the neck and face until the tool comes to a stop. It hurts when this happens.

A lot of new rotary users will purchase a salvage yard hood or other panel in which to practice on before going after their own vehicle with the rotary buffer. I was not one of these careful guys, I just started slow on my own car and quickly gained confidence and tested many different pads and products on my car. Now as a result of the many practice sessions buffing away on my Buick, I have thinned the clear to the point that it is failing as a result of the ultra violet protection being buffed away.

I was on a mission to master the rotary and while I have gotten pretty good with a rotary, I believe it is the type of tool that as soon as you think that you have mastered it you get over confident and end up making a mistake with it.

As far as the speeds that you posted are concerned, It wouldn't be a bad idea to start out as a beginner at 600 R.P.M. but compounding and polishing are typically done at between 1000 and 2000 R.P.M. Again, it would be a good idea to start out slow and on flat panels only. (tape off any and all edges and gaps between panels until you have a "good feel" for rotary polishing.

The 1 foot square working area will work well when using a DA polisher but when operating a rotary you will want to at least double that area as working in a 1 foot squared area will likely generate too much heat.

Again with a DA polisher, 2 to 3 inches every couple of seconds may be a good polishing speed (slower if compounding) but you may want to move your new rotary a little faster until you get the feel for what the results will be.

The nice thing is that the Eddie Bauer will "likely" (not definitely) have pretty hard paint that should be somewhat resilient or forgiving for learning how to operate your new polisher. I suggest that you start out with 6" or 6.5" pads and a finishing polish and go slow until you get the hang of it.

These are not just made up horror stories, these things can and do happen if you are not 100% completely focused on what you are doing.

Don't fear it just respect it, go slow and pay attention to what you are doing.

The biggest piece of advice that I can offer is that if burning the paint on it will be the end of the world, don't polish it with the rotary until you first have a "good feel" for the polisher.
Click to expand...

Not much can be added to this, well said.

Don't fear the rotary, they're really not the gnarly paint buring beast everyone makes them out to be, a little common sense goes a long way with using a rotary. If your serious about doing correction then I highly recommend learning to use a rotary polisher, you'll be rewarded for doing so as a DA simply can't rival a rotary in time OR results. Good luck,
 
Hi


There's a difference between "using" a tool. And finishing with a swirl-free finish. Anyone can use a rotary buffer. Not everyone can finish 100% swirl free, after chemically stripping the paint and then inspecting the results in full-on, overhead sun.


Huge difference.

When you use a DA Polisher you're using a different "mechanical action" and it's this rotating and oscillating action at the same time that enables complete Newbies to remove swirls while not leaving any swirls.


Here's some threads on this topic with lots of information to bring you up to speed...


How do you stay away from holograms?


New Flex PE14 - How to use ONLY a rotary buffer to finish out hologram free?


Experience needed for circular buffers?



A good combination is to use the rotary buffer first to do the heavy lifting, (remove the swirls and scratches), and then do your last machine polishing step, (fine polish), using a DA and this will ensure you finish out swirl free with no need to do the chemical stripping work or washing with a detergent soap to inspect to see if you did in fact leave a swirl-free finish.

Or don't worry about finishing out 100% swirl free and apply your favorite coat of wax or paint sealant and move on...


:xyxthumbs:
 
RakuArtist said:
I understand that I must be cautious and work in 1 sq. ft. sections at a time, keeping the speeds at or below 600 so as not to burn the paint... correct? Also... keeping the polisher moving constantly 2-3 inches every couple of seconds, correct?
Click to expand...

Since you are new to a rotary. I would stick to an area no larger than 2ft x 2ft. Speeds no faster than 1300rpm. Pads no larger than 6.5". Very little pressure. Just keep the rotary moving.

The paint on the 2001 Ford Explorers should be relatively hard. The roof will be challenging with the many rows of tracks. A platform to stand on will make life much easier.

Good luck!
 
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Re: 2001 Explorer roof: Maybe a good place to start practicing with the rotary? The panels are horizontal- easy to see what you're doing; the rows are fairly narrow- make you work in a small area; and if you mess up, you're working on a roof that not very many people will see...
 
with the raised "bars" in the roof those would be high spots you would want to tape the edges off as paint is always thinner on a edge... so for the roof i would use a pad size more suited for that areas your polishing, and yes all paint correction artists have to use up some elbow grease..not everything can be done by machine...not yet anyways. good luck to you i really would just grab a scrap panel from the junk yard,might be able to call a body shop and tell them you need a scrap hood. me i just went ahead and started on my own car as it needed a good buffing anyways and im the type who can watch videos and it helps out a great deal...have fun...
 
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