Fixing Smudging/Blotchy Effect?

Lugo

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Fixing Smudging/Blotchy Effect?


Hey Mike,

I have a Metallic Purple Mitsubishi sedan, which I purchased last October. When I picked it up, the paint was in need of some tlc, so I've had it professionally machine buffed about a month ago, and just yesterday hand polished the car after a once over with clay bar.

Now, I've done exactly what I've done this time on a few previous cars and they've always come out perfectly. For some reason, the paint, while perfectly smooth and reflective, has a smudging/blotching effect in the sunlight, which I can't seem to be rid of.

Is there something I'm perhaps doing wrong, or a particular product I need to use to finish the car? At this point I'm pretty stumped and don't really know what to do besides booking it into a pro detailing place to have done for me.

Please help!

Thanks,

Rhys.
 
Think you can take a picture of it? I personally can't help you with this problem, but I'm sure a visual of it will give some ideas to the other AGO members to help you out. :xyxthumbs:
 
Think you can take a picture of it? I personally can't help you with this problem, but I'm sure a visual of it will give some ideas to the other AGO members to help you out. :xyxthumbs:
Need to wait till its sunny again, but yeah I'll give it a whirl! Thanks.
 
For some reason, the paint, while perfectly smooth and reflective, has a smudging/blotching effect in the sunlight, which I can't seem to be rid of.

Smudging, blotchiness, or streaks, or even patches of dark and light on the surface is actually a sign of excess trace residues still on the surface.

Usually wiping the paint with a spray detailer and a soft microfiber polishing towel will remove the smudging or streaks.

A normal car wash will also fix the problem.

Another option is to try the final wipe technique but this is usually done immediately after initial wax or paint sealant is removed.

The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish


If washing the car or wiping the paint with a spray detailer doesn't fix the problem then it doesn't sound like it's a "topical" problem but could be something worse.

For example, if too much clear coat is removed from machine or even hand buffing the finish, the color coat will be exposed and it will have a dull appearance, not glossy.


So hope that you just have excess trace residues on the surface.


:)
 
I did think it could just be residue on the car, but it's had this effect for a while now, and even after the most recent clay bar and polishing, I've now washed it thoroughly twice, to no avail.

As far as the clear coat issue is concerned, I don't think that would be the case, as the finish is still very reflective, the whole body still reflects like a mirror, just direct sunlight and spot lights at night which display this strange effect.

I've attached a couple of photos for you to see to an extent what I'm getting at. You can really only see in the photos directly around where the sun is hitting the body the smudging, but I can assure you it is covering the entire car front to back.

01022010_001.jpg


01022010.jpg
 
It's what? Sorry I don't understand the technical terms. Simple hand polish sort that out?

Either from washing, removing polish or wax with a poor or dirty microfiber has induced those defects, swirls, scratches-i.e. marring.

You can try by hand but if you can atleast get your hands on a Porter Cable it would make life a lot easier and would come out a lot nicer.
 
Either from washing, removing polish or wax with a poor or dirty microfiber has induced those defects, swirls, scratches-i.e. marring.

You can try by hand but if you can atleast get your hands on a Porter Cable it would make life a lot easier and would come out a lot nicer.
Ok, well I'll get my hands on some good polish then, and some new microfiber cloths, and see how i go!

Thanks.
 
Ok, so I popped down to the shops and got myself some new polish, and a new microfibre cloth. As a test for the sun tomorrow I've done both rear doors, and the bonnet. So far under the garage lights the difference is night and day, pictures speak for themselves.

100_6445.jpg


100_6447.jpg


100_6446.jpg


There's still a fair few swirls and so fourth in the paint, but I think some Swirl and Scratch remover should fix that up well enough. Can expect perfection especially on the front end as I'm pretty well positive its been resprayed by the previous owner and not 100%, but it should come out pretty good.
 
That's what it looked like after getting the car back from a professional who polished it? Seems to me you shouldn't have to deal with hand polishing out the shoddy work done on your vehicle. Or do you think the damage was caused after having your car polished?

Either way, what you've done so far looks good. Just curious, what polish and what kind of applicator did you use? Careful though, hang around here too long and you'll find yourself with a new obsession... and a lighter wallet.

Here is some good reading if your going to keep working by hand. :dblthumb2:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/20496-fingermarks.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-asked-questions/20573-1-step-vs-3-steps.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...asked-questions/20257-man-versus-machine.html
 
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It was a bit of a complicated thing with the professional detailing. I got it done by someone else because I didn't want to have to deal with it this time around, and I've no experience with machine polishing etc.

When it was first done, it was an overcast day so it looked great (onsite detailer), so he left and all was well, was sunny the next day and I had this effect all over the body, except not so patchy, more longer streaks. So obviously I called him back, and he came a few days later, inspected the car, and gave it a full hand polish and it came up looking brilliant.

That lasted until I'd washed the car, and it was back at step one, but by that point I'd already signed off stating I was happy with the work done, so I really don't have a leg to stand on if I was to chase it up with them.

So I clay barred and polished it this weekend just past, but on a really hot day here, which I think affected the polish, and it went from a really streaky finish to a spotty one like you see in the photos.

So now I've just spent the last few hours hand polishing the entire car again, using Turtlewax liquid polish from the local hardware store, a new Meguirs application pad, and a brand new microfibre cloth. So far so good, still going to need to hit it with a swirl and scratch remover of some description, but as said earlier the paint itself isn't 100% on parts of the car, so I can't expect absolute perfection over the whole body, I just want to get it to the best I can without over spending or over investing time into it.

If I do decide I want perfection, I'm honestly going to have to commit to a full closed door respray of the car first, and if I do that I feel like I'm just being silly, because to 99% of the people who look at the car already, it looks great as is, lets just hope this murring as one of you guys called it doesn't come back after I wash the car next, which will probably not be today but tomorrow if I have time.

I shall keep those of you interested posted though on how it turns out, if it doesn't last, I assure you I'll be coming back screaming completely infuriated by it!

Cheers for the help thus far guys, so far I'm really glad I've joined up, fingers crossed my wallet doesn't hate me for it!
 


LOL

I read this thread this morning and the first thing I was going to do was post the "Fingermarks" thread and the "Man vs Machine" thread and you beat me to it!

Good job! :props:


This thread shows how just the meanings of a few words makes all the difference in the world. In the beginning of the thread the OP described the problem as Smudges and Blotchiness, when in fact it was as Dana posted, marking and swirls.

Smudges are topical
Swirls are below surface defects that need to be removed by actually removing a little paint.

HUGE difference.


:)
 
Thanks Mike! Dana has a keen eye indeed, and you post very informative threads to reference. I applaud you both :xyxthumbs:

Pics make all the difference!
 
It

So now I've just spent the last few hours hand polishing the entire car again, using Turtlewax liquid polish from the local hardware store

!


Your car's paint is a very pretty color of purple and if you really want to showcase the car then you'll want to really get the clear layer of paint clear and this is best done by machine.

That said, you can take the results you're getting right now to an even higher level by hand if you want to but you'll need something besides the Turtlewax Liquid Polish. To date, these have proven themselves to be very effective for rubbing out clear coats by hand.


In the link provided above, I documented how to remove swirls out of a clear boat by hand and the process will work for you too and you can achieve machine-like results if you'll invest the time to thoroughly work the Ultimate Compound and only work small sections at a time.

Then follow that with the SwirlX using the same technique, thoroughly work the product over the finish and the apply a wax or paint sealant of your choice.

Clear coat paints are very scratch-sensitive and because there's a color coat under them, they show scratches and swirls to your eyes very easily.

It's up to you but I've probably taught more people how to remove swirls out of clear coat paints by hand than anyone on earth and I can tell you first hand, (no pun intended), it can be done you just have to invest the time.


I downloaded your Photobucket pictures and placed them into your gallery here on Autogeek so in the future we don't see red x's and so I could use them below and not worry about them turning into red x's


Here are EXTREME Fingermarks

FingerMarks5.jpg



Here's a shot of your car's door, if you look closely, it looks like it too has fingermarks.

LugosFingermarks1.jpg



Finger Marks

Finger Marks, also called Leopard Spot Effect, are actually a type of scratch-pattern left in the paint from using a product that's either too aggressive to be used by hand or not safe for clear coat paints.

The marks mimic the shape of your fingertips as they push down on some type of applicator pad while working a product over and into the paint. Finger Marks are inflicted into the paint anytime you stop the movement of the applicator pad for at this moment, as brief as it may be, there tends to be more pressure exerted to the fingertips at the point at which you either stopped moving your hand or changed the direction in which you're moving your hand.

This can happen if you apply products in a circular motion or in a back-and-forth, straight-line motion. It's not the direction of the motion, it's the stopping of motion or the change of direction of motion that the marks are imprinted into the paint.

It can also be caused by using too aggressive of a material for an applicator, for example a coarse cloth like cheesecloth a red shop rag.

Cheesecloth
In the last year I met a gentleman that purchased some Cheesecloth at a PBE store that said on the package it was safe for clear coat finishes, he used the cheesecloth to apply a hand applied polish to the paint on his brand new black Porsche and ended up instilling finger marks everywhere he rubbed the paint.

Red Shop Rag
We all know you shouldn't apply paint care products to any type of paint using a red shop rag but I've met people that don't understand how easily clear coat paints are scratched and thus don't take the type of applicator or application material they're using into consideration. Automotive repair shops use a lot of shop rags, they're not always read, sometimes they gray or purple looking but they're all made out of fairly coarse material and it's not uncommon for some well-meaning mechanic to wipe or rub something off a car while it's in the shop for repair and in the process instill scratches and finger marks.


Coarse Rubbing Compounds
Old fashioned rubbing compounds in which the abrasives are hard and sharp will also cause Finger Marks when applied by hand. While most rubbing compounds have been reformulated to be safer than old style compounds that were commonly used on single stage paints before the 1980's, there are still zillions of cans of rubbing compound and polishing compound in garages and shops across the country that are used on clear coated cars because that's whats already out in the garage.


This is why you want to do a Test Spot to the paint anytime you're using products you're unfamiliar with or working on paint you've never worked on before.


If the results from your Test Spot look good, then simply duplicate your process over the rest of the car. If the results from your Test Spot don't look good... aren't you glad you only worked on a small section?


The easiest and fastest way of course to create a show car finish on your car's paint for someone new to machine polishing would be to get a dual action polisher. I think Australia use 220 Volt correct?

:)
 
There's really a lot more to this than I originally thought!

I have heard of some of the products you've mentioned though, going to give it a whirl when the weather picks up, really wanna get rid of as many swirls as possible!

I am going to do just what I can do by hand, only because I'm not confident with using a machine yet, and knowing me, I'll mess the paint up if I try.

I will have to keep a closer eye on the types of polishes I use in future, sounds like what happened last time with the spot effect didn't do the clear coat any good, wouldn't want to ruin it! Test spots will be a must in future.

And yeah, we use 220-240v down here.

Thanks!!
 
Ok now for some frustration, did that last hand polish early in the week, came out great. Haven't washed the car since, so its gotten a bit dirty thanks to the rain, but I've noticed this morning that this "Leopard Spot Effect" as you call it is back...

I'm getting really really annoyed with it now and I'm at the point where I'm either just going to leave it looking #### or throw money at it to get it done AGAIN by a professional, but this time book it into a reputable business.

All I want to know is WHY does it keep going back the way it was? Why does it look great for a few days, then as soon as water hits it its back to step one?
 
All I want to know is WHY does it keep going back the way it was? Why does it look great for a few days, then as soon as water hits it its back to step one?


Hard to say for sure without being there but it sounds like whatever you applied just masked or hid the problem.

In order to remove defects like swirls, scratches, etching or fingermarks you must REMOVE a little paint and LEVEL or FLATTEN out the surface.

You can't do this to a clear coat paint if you're just gently spreading some type of product around by hand. If you could see me move my hand when I remove swirls by hand you would probably be surprised at how hard I push, how fast I move my hand, how long I rub and what a small section I do at one time.

That's because clear coat paints are hard and that means it's difficult to remove small particles of paint BY HAND and thus the reason electric polishers like the PC 7424XP have become so popular.


Someone already included these two links and I'm pretty confident I went over in detail

  • What it takes to remove defects by hand
  • How to remove defects by hand
In both of them.


1-Step vs 3-Steps

Man versus Machine



Here's two more threads for you and everyone into the future that will read this thread...


The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints


And this one explains exactly what's involved when it comes to removing things like fingermarks, or leopard marks, or any type of swirl or scratch out of a clear coat finish.


What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats


On February 14th, there will be a new commercial on Two Guys Garage, here's the schedule for February,




To go with that commercial we will be uploading a video that goes over EXACTLY how to do a TEST SPOT using a Porter Cable 7424XP to remove swirls out of a clear coated black finish.

I've been posting and stressing the importance of doing a Test Spot on the Internet since 1994 and this will be the first how-to video that goes over the complete and exact process.

Then, after you prove your system and technique to one small spot like we do in this video, you simply duplicate the things you do in the test spot over the rest of the car.

After that you'll have show car finish. IF you decide to let someone else do it then you have to still find someone that's going to basically do everything we show in the video or you'll be back to square one and that's a swirls out car.


Remember, we didn't invent clear coat paints, paint companies did and car manufactures spray them on the cars they manufacture. So if you're frustrated by how hard it is to work on a clear coat finish, contact the paint companies and the car manufactures.


Sorry...


:)
 
Hey guys, sorry I haven't updated this for anyone interested to follow, been, flat out, and kinda forgot. The detailing company who did the work on my car has actually organised to have an independent inspector come out to look at the car this coming friday, to determine what will need to be done, and if an insurance claim will have to be made to restore the vehicle.

Will keep you updated with progress if any of you guys are interested to find out what happens.

Cheers.
 
Hey guys, sorry I haven't updated this for anyone interested to follow, been, flat out, and kinda forgot. The detailing company who did the work on my car has actually organised to have an independent inspector come out to look at the car this coming friday, to determine what will need to be done, and if an insurance claim will have to be made to restore the vehicle.

Will keep you updated with progress if any of you guys are interested to find out what happens.

Cheers.
Thanks for the update - and let us know what turns out.

That's a very nice color on your car, it should shine not have swirls and marks all over it. :dblthumb2:

DLB
 
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