I have not used Sonax Foam and Seal. But Sonax Spray and Seal I have used some maybe 3 bottles IIRC. I'm a huge user of spray and rinse products for 4 years now. Honestly mostly it's my only LSP product that I use. There are some trix to get an even application and reduce the amount of product you use. The biggest thing to have in mind is that you need a shade or overcast when you apply it. Cause this bonds and cures so fast that you just blink and it's done LOL. When you are comfortable with the product you can stretch the area you apply it on to more than a panel at the time. But it's not recommended in the beginning and you need to know what to do if you get streaks/high spots. Usually apply a little more sorts it out. But you might need to buff off directly after application. This is a difference between the products in how concentrated they are and how the transfer solution is. There are some that is a little greasy and can leave streaks behind. Meguiars HCW and also Sonax is in this league in my experience. So blow dry is not something I do with these and I dry/buff off them with drying towels. Gyeon Wet Coat that I use the most is just that it's so easy to use as I rarely need to be doing anything else than rinse off and blow dry and it's get great results every time.
Even application especially on worn or dead LSP. Spray on wet paint and spread out with a damp microfiber towel. And rinse off panel by panel. This get you the most even application and often an extra month durability. I have nerve damages and are on my last leg when it comes to protect the car after a wash. And I still wipe it in and rinse off. 1 or 2 spray per panel and an extra or 2 on the hood and the roof. Is all that's needed with these products. If you have parts that's failed wipe in and rinse off those parts and the rest just spread it with the spray and rinse off.
Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax is a different story but really a great product. If the paint has no LSP. Apply dry and spread it out and buff it off. It can be a little grabby to buff off but not that hard. When you have the foundation layer down the HCW is a thick product that's hard to spray out evenly. Dilute it with destilled water 1:3-1:4 this makes it easier to apply and rinse off more evenly. You can actually do this first application or dry/buff off it when wet without the rinse with all of these products as well. I have a domestic brand that needs to be diluted or dry buff off to get great results. It's the most durable product in this segment I have tried at this time. The huge benefit with these is that they are so easy to top up with just apply it again. You don't need drying aid or any other LSP product if don't want to use them.
I have used another product that's not available in the US that you foam on and rinse off. Sure it's an even application. But with a high temperature and high humidity you need to be working fast. And absolutely no sun on any part of the car. This is a heads up so you don't get streaks/high spots that's a pain to remove it if it's dwelled and dried to long before rinsed off.
The draw back that's I'm seeing and switched my method for the last year. Is that have you not a glass coating and even if you have that. The front windshield I stay away from getting these products on. Mostly cause it's when you use the wipers it's leaves a haze after them that's very increasing on the sight out from it. It gets worse the more that you use the wipers as well. But there are a trick to sort it out. When you apply it on the roof and the hood. Use the spray and rinse product so it sprays away from the windshield. Also have the wind in mind so the spray don't fly on to the windshield. When you rinse you rinse it from the edge off the windshield and away from it. So on the roof start in the front and follow it all the way back to the vehical. This way you get minimal of the product on the windshield. The same with the hood and a-pillars rinse from the top of the hood and down and the same with the a-pillars from the side and away from the vehical. Don't forget to after the rinse of these parts. Still rinse off the windshield as you will never avoid to get some overspray or rinse water to get it on there. It's just to reduce the amount as much as possible. It's a downside with these products. But when you are used to it it's not that bad to be doing. It's saves a lot of hazzle if you getting rain a lot where you live. Other than where the wipers goes. It's fantastic on the windows. And usually it's holding up longer on the glass. Remember that SiO2 in it's solid state is glass. So I think that some just bonds faster there cause of the SiO2 used in your product. Also rinse off the windows first with product on them as they usually bonds faster there. I have seen many complaining on water spots on the glass. But instead it's that they used to much product or let it dwell for to long. This is especially with SiO2 in the product. And the same here with warm glass or it's in the sun. It's almost impossible to not get high spots with SiO2 products in general. You really must know what you are doing. I also saw one that applied the old version of Gyeon Wet Coat over the whole car. Then he got a phone call and it took 20 minutes before he tried to rinse it off. Nothing came off and visual when you spray this on before you rinse. This is what his whole car looked like. It was needed to be wet sanded off actually. As it's just so much product that cures on the paint. If you are fast you can apply more and like desolves like is working. But you only have a short window with this. So my advise in the beginning is to always follow the instructions of application. But mostly the part with out of the sun and cool paint. And apply panel by panel and rinse thoroughly between them and you will get great results.
The smaller difference in the looks between the Sonax Spray & Seal vs Gyeon Wet Coat. Is the Sonax is a little more to the wax glow and Gyeon to the ceramic sharper glow. Meguiars is quite like Sonax and Carpro Hydro2 is like Gyeon. We in the EU has Turtle Wax Dry & Shine which is their version of these products. It's a sleeper. But the most durable and also gives you a high gloss. And actually when I used it a month ago. It masks scratches quite good. I was surpriced to see some light scratches disappare in front of me or get reduced LOL. It's a little more to get it to work easy and great. But when you dial that in it's really an awesome product. Loach I think got 5-6 months out of 1 application in Florida climate. That's really impresive for a spray and rinse product. Or wait you apply it on dry paint and buff it off the first time
But dilute it and your maintance is dirt cheap and easy with HCW. Maybe just cause of this it's not that huge as it should be. If you just want something that works straight out of the bottle. Gyeon Wet Coat and you will be satisfied with it if you like the concept of these products. What I have heard on the foam and rinse products and also the ceramic infused car soaps. Is that the durability is not that long on them. So you need to be useing them often. Or as a topper on a spray on and rinse off product. They are less with the product for protection in them. As there would be a lot of bad experience for many I think.
Anything else you want to know and I missed. Just ask away. And don't be afraid of useing these products. I'm a honest guy who says what to look out for. So you don't make the same mistakes that I have done LOL. But as you see I keep going back to these products over time. Just cause of the ease of useing them is a huge benefit for me personally. We have a domestic brand that just released a version. And the newer and stronger versions of Hydrosilex has got great reviews here in Sweden. So probebly I will test them out soon as well LOL.
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If you wanted to, you could even spread these "spray on, hose off" products and THEN rinse off to ensure even coverage.
