Foamed Wool Pads - purple

[Danube]

Tested the pads yesterday for the first time with no previous experience with this or other wool like pads. I can tell ya it's different to foam pads, which made me a bit

The cut was amazing even if compared with most aggressive foam pads; I was shocked with it's ability but at the same time not sure as to how much product to use. Obviously no need to prime, but really which is the correct way to work with this type of pad?!? How much product is needed?!? This is a completely a new ball game in detailing for me, so be easy please!


:dblthumb2:

 

[Danube]

Anyone ever used the purple Foamed Wool Pads?

How to apply a compound such as M105? On the pad or directly on a panel? How about horizontal panels?

Thanks

 

[Porsche Pilot]

I like to use the PFW on the Flex 3401. It works quite well and can knock out defects quickly. I use the pick up a bead method much like you would with a rotary. Just remember, Flex machines rotate counter clockwise as compared to most domestic machines.

 

[gatoman39]

I like to use the PFW on the Flex 3401. It works quite well and can knock out defects quickly. I use the pick up a bead method much like you would with a rotary. Just remember, Flex machines rotate counter clockwise as compared to most domestic machines.

How is the cut compared to Surbuf or Megs MF cutting pad?

 

[Bates Detailing]

I just saw the purple wool pads the other day and I was shocked - never seen them before! My supplier said that they are no different from traditional wool pads other than less shedding - which would be a great perk I think.... shedding can be annoying. I usually apply a circle of product around the middle of the pad (hope that makes sense), spread it around the panel and go to town. I may use more product than most though, seems safer than letting a "too dry" wool pad spin around on some paint. I also feel a wool pad is MUCH easier to control than a heavy cut foam pad. But then again I was born with a wool pad on my makita.

 

[poweraid]

there is the purple foamed wool and a (hybrid) foam wool that is to be similar it say in description. I have not used either but I plan to pick one of these up .

 

[Porsche Pilot]

How is the cut compared to Surbuf or Megs MF cutting pad?

I find they cut a tad faster than the Surbuf but I am using them on a more powerful machine than the PC.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Tested the pads yesterday for the first time with no previous experience with this or other wool like pads. I can tell ya it's different to foam pads, which made me a bit

Which one of your Flex tools are you using it with?

The cut was amazing even if compared with most aggressive foam pads; I was shocked with it's ability but at the same time not sure as to how much product to use.

You'll notice your product tends to dissipate or disappear as you're buffing with these types of pads on the Flex 3401, not sure what causes this characteristic but do make sure you have "ample" product on the surface whenever you're buffing.

From this article,

How much product do I use with my DA Polisher?


Use an "ample" amount of product
When I say use an ample amount of product this means don’t use too much product and don’t use to little product.

From The Free Dictionary.com

am·ple
adjective

1. Of large or great size, amount, extent, or capacity: an ample living room.

2.
a. Large in degree, kind, or quantity: an ample reward.
b. More than enough: ample evidence.

3. Fully sufficient to meet a need or purpose: had ample food for the party.
​

Out of the above definitions, I'm using the 3rd definition.

Using too much product
If you use too much you can hyper-lubricate the surface and this will make it more difficult for the abrasives to abrade the surface as they’ll tend to want to glide or slip over the surface instead of bite into the surface.

Using too little product
If you use too little product there won’t be enough lubrication to enable the buffing pad to rotate and thus engage the abrasives against the surface so they can bite into and remove small particles of paint.
​

You want an AMPLE amount of product when first starting out because you pad is dry and some of the product is going to seep into the pad leaving less on the surface to LUBRICATE and ABRADE the paint.

Obviously no need to prime, but really which is the correct way to work with this type of pad?!? How much product is needed?!? This is a completely a new ball game in detailing for me, so be easy please!


:dblthumb2:

With the Flex 3401, prime your pad with the product you're using then add some "working product" to the face of the pad, like dime sized dollops.

With a rotary buffer, use like you would any other wool pad, that is a strip of product about the size of a normal pencil for a 2 x 2' area and the spread the product out after picking up your bead and then work it.

I show that in this video with a wool pad but you can use the same tips and techniques with a PFW on a rotary...

Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels​

[video=youtube_share;gc_umhlote4&hd=1"]Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels - YouTube[/video]

Anyone ever used the purple Foamed Wool Pads?

How to apply a compound such as M105? On the pad or directly on a panel? How about horizontal panels?

Thanks

See answers and video above...

 

[The Pad Man]

They cut completely different than standard wool pad. They are knitted, not tufted like conventional pad. You can compound with them with a compound, or polish with the with a polish. The cut fast and consistent.

 

[richy]

IMO, the PFW are at the mild side of the continuum for wool pads. They are not aggressive as say the Megs Solo or the 3M white wool. But both of those shred like crazy. The real winner for me in pads is the Tuf Buff black wool. NO shredding, and it cuts like the a/m other 2. If you work it long enough, it finishes down quite well for just minimal correction after that. Wool+rotary=fast correction. When you get used to that, your DA will be used far less often.

 

[Danube]

Thank you for all your replies guys, I'm already looking to buy tuf buf pads.

Once again it's very interesting how these pads cut compared to foam, it's very different and much faster, now it's up to me top master the wool.

The video is worth 25 minutes of watching, great effort Mike and lots of valuable info there. Btw I've tested the purple pad on rotary, I'll also try DA as well.

Ample amount of product is something that comes with experience. Another important thing that needs a lot of experimenting and practice, practice, practice ...

 

[opie_7afe]

IMO, the PFW are at the mild side of the continuum for wool pads. They are not aggressive as say the Megs Solo or the 3M white wool. But both of those shred like crazy. The real winner for me in pads is the Tuf Buff black wool. NO shredding, and it cuts like the a/m other 2. If you work it long enough, it finishes down quite well for just minimal correction after that. Wool+rotary=fast correction. When you get used to that, your DA will be used far less often.

after a talk with eric dunn at lake country he told me the LC lambswool leveling pad is same as the tuff buff black wool only not dyed, but to me the tuff buff wool looks way different so i dont know how comparable they are.wish i could find out what makes the black wool so special....they are cheap though i just need to buy me a couple lol...

 

[tuscarora dave]

Obviously no need to prime
:dblthumb2:

I always prime these pads. Foam or wool, when you have 100% of the face of the pad primed with the abrasive product used to remove paint defects you'll be working smarter not harder.

 

[Danube]

Priming and amount of product used are one of the most important factors in this game I believe.

Other crucial factors are: machine used (DA or rotary), speed of the machine, pressure, pad choice & product choice.

Before all this - assessment on the paint condition dictates the approach.

Everyone needs time and a lot of testing, testing, practicing, practicing ..

 

[richy]

after a talk with eric dunn at lake country he told me the LC lambswool leveling pad is same as the tuff buff black wool only not dyed, but to me the tuff buff wool looks way different so i dont know how comparable they are.wish i could find out what makes the black wool so special....they are cheap though i just need to buy me a couple lol...

I respectfully disagree. I don't sell them, so I don't need to embellish the truth. I own both and have used both. The PFW are not as aggressive IMHO. The black wool in combination with either M105 or PG has cut anything I have ever needed. That's a list that includes some very hard clear and some nasty scratches. Several times I started with the PFW and had to move to a more aggressive wool.