Frustrated with Iron Particles Mike..

cobalt9123

cobalt9123

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For some background, I did the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination system today. I work right near train tracks and there's a company right next to my work called olympic steel that mines for metal.

I had pretty bad iron particles embedded in my WHITE paint and they would not come out with a clay bar. I decided to do the FKPDS and was pretty impressed, however, it did not get rid of all of the particles. Here are some before and afters, I will be doing a full written review with some iPhone pictures on another day (Been working on this for 7 hours) :

Before
iron1.jpg

After
iron6.jpg

Before
iron2.jpg

After
iron7.jpg


As you can see, it did not get rid of all the particles. It did, however, get rid of a lot of them. My problem Mike, is the ones that are left over. I have a few spots on my car here and there with particles like these, but the absolute worst part is my rear bumper. Here is a shot of what I'm complaining about, this is after the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination, 8 Passes of the acid cleaner, and several clay-barrings with DP clay and ONR as lube:

iron8.jpg


This is really, really bothering me Mike, and I'm very frustrated. I don't know what to do about it. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to have the rear bumper repainted, not just because of this, but partially because of this (A part to the right of my license plate holder about 8"x10" has clear coat "shedding" which I have no clue how happened...I just know it shedded after I washed it. Also on the right side someone swiped me and I had it shabbily repaired so it may be best for me to have it resprayed. However, I am wondering if you can give me any advice on what to do. I am at a loss here, sand it? Compound it? See what happens? Or just get it resprayed? Thank you very much for any of your help and all you do :dblthumb2:
 
There is a new product that is about to hit the US markets in the next couple of weeks. The product is called Iron cut by Aquartz. It is designed to safety and effectively remove ferrous metals from paint. You can order from the UK if you are in a rush though. So far it is looking very promising.

Highly effective, acid-free and pH balanced (6~7pH) car paint, wheels & glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including aluminum and alloys). This formulation is also effective and safe for use on all car surfaces and will not deteriorate clear coats. This preventative measure puts a stop to corrosion , Iron Cut contains unique chemical ingredients that effectively dissolves the sintered iron by forming a water soluble iron complex. No other method cleans paint and wheels as deeply as Iron Cut. The Iron Cut Paint and wheels Decontamination System was developed as a method of removing paint contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying !!. If you are familiar with detail clay, you know it is capable of removing above surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint. The Iron Cut is designed to remove what lies below the paint surface.
Airborne chemical compounds and ferrous particles - particles containing iron - actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint's sub-layers or paint’s pin-holes. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it's too late. Claying or polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to spread beneath the surface.

During the use of your vehicle, brake dust and road grime become sintered to the surface of the car paint , rims and wheels due to the high temperature conditions they are normally exposed. Brake dust contains high levels of iron and once sintered to the rim, becomes extremely difficult to dissolve or remove without the use of harsh chemicals. Iron Cut opens up the paint's pores to release ferrous particles and to neutralize caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by removing the ferrous particles.
Click to expand...

Here are some reviews of this new product.

AQuartz Iron Cut Review - Detailing World

Iron Filling Removal with Iron Cut (Video + Pictures) - Detailing World

Aquartz / Aquartz+ & Iron Cut - Detailing World
 
Wow. Thank you so much. I believe I have seen that on Autopia before, people paying around $40 to have it shipped from UK. That would be so much simpler than doing an 8 hour process of washing-claying-washing-alkaline-washing-acid-washing.

Thank you very much! I will DEFINITELY be looking into that!
 
cobalt9123 said:
For some background, I did the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination system today. I work right near train tracks and there's a company right next to my work called olympic steel that mines for metal.
Click to expand...

Solving the root cause of the problem is key...

If you undo the damage caused by metal particles and even if you have portions of the repainted, but continue to park where the problem is being caused, then you will continue to have the problem.

2 options are,

  • Car cover
  • Beater car to drive to work

cobalt9123 said:
This is really, really bothering me Mike, and I'm very frustrated. I don't know what to do about it. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to have the rear bumper repainted, not just because of this, but partially because of this (A part to the right of my license plate holder about 8"x10" has clear coat "shedding" which I have no clue how happened...I just know it shedded after I washed it.

Also on the right side someone swiped me and I had it shabbily repaired so it may be best for me to have it resprayed.

However, I am wondering if you can give me any advice on what to do. I am at a loss here, sand it? Compound it? See what happens? Or just get it resprayed?
Click to expand...

Well compounding is easy enough to try and see if that helps...

For the shedding problem, if you mean the clear layer of paint is peeling off, then the only way to fix this is to have the area repainted...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Solving the root cause of the problem is key...

If you undo the damage caused by metal particles and even if you have portions of the repainted, but continue to park where the problem is being caused, then you will continue to have the problem.

2 options are,

  • Car cover
  • Beater car to drive to work



Well compounding is easy enough to try and see if that helps...

For the shedding problem, if you mean the clear layer of paint is peeling off, then the only way to fix this is to have the area repainted...


:)
Click to expand...

I know, I thought that it was no big deal until I realized these really are a pain to get rid of! I will definitely have to drive my black cobalt to work every day.

The shedding problem is interesting, the story was, I let the car get really dirty ( a few weeks of non stop rain), I took it to the car wash to use the pressure washer to get the majority of the dirt off before washing and when I got to the rear bumper, the clear coat literally shedded off. I don't know if it was ALL the clear coat or just SOME of it. I do know that the paint is different (Flexible?) on plastic bumpers and is different from the rest of the car, or so I've heard. it is definitely an eye sore.

I will try compounding maybe and see how it works, thanks Mike!
 
cobalt9123 said:
Wow. Thank you so much. I believe I have seen that on Autopia before, people paying around $40 to have it shipped from UK. That would be so much simpler than doing an 8 hour process of washing-claying-washing-alkaline-washing-acid-washing.

Thank you very much! I will DEFINITELY be looking into that!
Click to expand...

If you read this page of this thread a member pre-ordered it from the only US distributor for $35 shipped. Which is really reasonable. :xyxthumbs:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...sion/130350-look-what-came-korea-today-3.html
 
Haha. No problem man! :xyxthumbs: The new Aquartz line up and products look are all showing some very good promise. The coating/sealant they have is remarkable. Its scratch resistant, acid resistant, and boast 2 years durability. Just watch some of the youtube videos on and you will be amazed. It seems like all the good stuff is developed and sold in the UK. First Gtechniq and now Aquartz.
 
Hey Cobalt, I have the same terrible problem with my Silver Silverado, all along the bottom panels. A friend told me to use 2000 grit , compound and so on. I did this last year & it's returning. I have the problem terribly in the rear wheel wells for which I recently purchased the FKDS as you did. Havent had time to use it yet but, I'm thinking of coating the inside of my wheel wells with something black like an undercoating, or the Rhino liner etc: unless someone has other ideas. The black would match the front wheel well liners. As for the bottom panels, ??? I also cross 2 sets of tracks several times a day so no way around that.
Was the FK system a LOT of work? Looks it to me.
 
WOW! The Iron Cut seems to good to be true! I mean, I can sit there & spray till all the particles are removes without rubbing my arms off. I'm gonna look into this.
Thanks
 
mtnbiker said:
Hey Cobalt, I have the same terrible problem with my Silver Silverado, all along the bottom panels. A friend told me to use 2000 grit , compound and so on. I did this last year & it's returning. I have the problem terribly in the rear wheel wells for which I recently purchased the FKDS as you did. Havent had time to use it yet but, I'm thinking of coating the inside of my wheel wells with something black like an undercoating, or the Rhino liner etc: unless someone has other ideas. The black would match the front wheel well liners. As for the bottom panels, ??? I also cross 2 sets of tracks several times a day so no way around that.
Was the FK system a LOT of work? Looks it to me.
Click to expand...

Yes, it was a crazy amount of work. Also I didn't like working with all the chemicals...there's some crazy stuff in them and the fumes are hecktick. I had to wear long sleeves and a mask and gloves and everything. And at the end of the day...they were still in my paint. The only way to get rid of EMBEDDED iron particles ( such as the ones you and I have, that come back after claying), is either chemically removing them with something like Iron Cut, or Sanding/Compounding down so far that you get rid of the whole Ferrous Particle. I prefer spraying..waiting five minutes, and wiping off much more than washing, washing again, washing again..and again..and again.. :nomore:

mtnbiker said:
WOW! The Iron Cut seems to good to be true! I mean, I can sit there & spray till all the particles are removes without rubbing my arms off. I'm gonna look into this.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, I just emailed someone and asked about it. It seems awesome!
 
As an update, I used Iron Cut on the car and all of the Iron particles are gone. MOST of the particles were gone from just two spray downs (with 3 minute wait time) of Iron Cut. There were about 8 culprits on my rear bumper (the worst place on the car) that had to be removed a special way that mike@autoaesthetica showed me how to do:
-Clay spots with some "love" with a medium clay (This shears off the head of the iron particulate)
-Give the area an IPA wipedown
-Spray Iron Cut on the area and wait about 2 minutes, then agitate with a microfiber cloth or applicator).
-Wait another minute, then use your medium clay bar along WITH Iron Cut to clay the area of problem. (Warning: This will most likely ruin your clay bar, however, it didn't ruin my DP Universal Clay Bar).

This did the trick. Don't think that Iron Cut isn't effective because of this, trust me, it is much more effective than the FK Decont. Kit. You will be surprised at what will be left in your paint after you give it a thorough claying. You can see it all by spraying it down with IC after the fact.

I would really love for AutoGeek to carry Aquartz products, they are fantastic!! :props: Im the MAN
 
I second Iron Cut. I picked up a couple bottles to do my wheels (heavily caked on brake dust and grime) and also my girl's white Mazda6 and I must say...it works amazing. It melts off before your eyes!
 
Douger said:
I second Iron Cut. I picked up a couple bottles to do my wheels (heavily caked on brake dust and grime) and also my girl's white Mazda6 and I must say...it works amazing. It melts off before your eyes!
Click to expand...

It's fantastic isn't it? :props:

Sonax Full Effect works better on wheels for me just because it's a gel formula instead of a thin liquid. Both are similar formulas (I believe) but the Sonax doesn't smell as bad Im the MAN
 
I recently bought a couple of sample bottles of Iron Cut as (1) they were cheap and (2) I was not sure if it would really work. I initially sprayrd half the car to gauge how it works, I have seen pictures of panels which had a few spots on but the passenger side of my car turned red. The other panels just had a few spots. I completed the rest of the car today and only a few spots appeared. All I can conclude is that at some stage part of my car has been exposed to some serious metal fragments.

A highly recommended product but the smell is terrible
 
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