Full Fall Detail by Hand

bmw5541

bmw5541

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I will be doing a full detail on my titanium silver 330xi within the next few weeks before the winter is upon us. I have some minor swirls, but for the most part my paint is in very good condition.

I wanted to ask what you would recommend with the products that I have.
LC CCS Euro Foam Applicator Pads
PB SS&S
P21S Wheel Gel
Clay Magic Clay and Lube
P21S Gloss Enhancing Polish
PB SSR2
PB PwS
PB White Diamond Show Glaze
#########Wet Diamond Sealant
PB Natty's Red
Feed back please
Thanks in advance
 
bmw5541 said:
I will be doing a full detail on my titanium silver 330xi within the next few weeks before the winter is upon us. I have some minor swirls, but for the most part my paint is in very good condition.

I wanted to ask what you would recommend with the products that I have.
LC CCS Euro Foam Applicator Pads
PB SS&S
P21S Wheel Gel
Clay Magic Clay and Lube
P21S Gloss Enhancing Polish
PB SSR2
PB PwS
PB White Diamond Show Glaze
#########Wet Diamond Sealant
PB Natty's Red
Feed back please
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Skip the glaze just seal and wax. I would do 2 coats of BFWD. Natty's Red is not very durable, how about collinite as a topper?
 
Why so many layers?

I would polish with SSR2 and a White or Red Euro Foam Pad and then go straight to sealant. Two coats of sealant and then two coats of a durable wax.
 
Emile said:
Why so many layers?

I would polish with SSR2 and a White or Red Euro Foam Pad and then go straight to sealant. Two coats of sealant and then two coats of a durable wax.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies. I wasn't actually planning on doing so many layers. I was just showing the supplies that I had to work with and asking for recommendations on what steps you would do. Sorry if I wasn't clear!

One question though. Why the white or red pad for the SSR2? The red is designed for a glaze, or lsp. Would you not use the orange to remove the swirls?

Thanks!!
 
bmw5541 said:
One question though. Why the white or red pad for the SSR2? The red is designed for a glaze, or lsp. Would you not use the orange to remove the swirls?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

You're correct about the red for use removing swirls and scratches, it's just too soft.

Stick with either the orange or the white foam formulas as the extra density will work better for working the abrasives against the paint.

Do a test spot with both and see which foam is giving you the results but in efficiency of defect removal and also in appearance. If you can get away using the least aggressive product that's usually the path to follow.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
You're correct about the red for use removing swirls and scratches, it's just too soft.

Stick with either the orange or the white foam formulas as the extra density will work better for working the abrasives against the paint.

Do a test spot with both and see which foam is giving you the results but in efficiency of defect removal and also in appearance. If you can get away using the least aggressive product that's usually the path to follow.


:)
Click to expand...

Mike,
In what order would you use the items that I have listed? Should I start with the P21S GEPC or skip it and go straight to the SSR2 after wash and clay?

Thanks again.
 
bmw5541 said:
Mike,
In what order would you use the items that I have listed? Should I start with the P21S GEPC or skip it and go straight to the SSR2 after wash and clay?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

How bad are the swirls and scratches in the paint that you're trying to remove?

SSR2 is quite a bit more aggressive than the GEPC so it's going to remove swirls and scratches faster. I can't find any information that actually states the GEPC contains any kind of abrasives, diminishing or otherwise, so it appears to be a light paint cleaner.

Ideally, you would try the GEPC with the white foam applicator pad to a test section on the hood or trunk lid then wipe off the residue and inspect the results. If they look good then duplicate this over the rest of the car. If they don't then try the same chemical again but test the more aggressive orange foam applicator and again, inspect your results.

If neither of these options is getting the job done then you want to try a more aggressive product like the SSR2. Again, start with the least aggressive foam and if that isn't producing the desired results fast enough then try again with the most aggressive foam pad.

The idea behind removing swirls and scratches is to use the least aggressive products to get the job done so you leave the most amount of paint on the car.


Remember, removing swirls and scratches mean removing the paint surrounding the swirls and scratches in an effort to level or flatten out the surface.


What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats


:)
 
Using some painter's tape and then testing on only one side really helps you to see any differences or changes taking place.

From this thread,
1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!


Horizontal surfaces like the hood or the trunk lid always work best for the Test Spot. Here we're using the trunk lid and we've applied a piece of painter's tape to separate between the before and after sides for easier and more accurate evaluation.

57TuqChev055.jpg
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
How bad are the swirls and scratches in the paint that you're trying to remove?

SSR2 is quite a bit more aggressive than the GEPC so it's going to remove swirls and scratches faster. I can't find any information that actually states the GEPC contains any kind of abrasives, diminishing or otherwise, so it appears to be a light paint cleaner.

Ideally, you would try the GEPC with the white foam applicator pad to a test section on the hood or trunk lid then wipe off the residue and inspect the results. If they look good then duplicate this over the rest of the car. If they don't then try the same chemical again but test the more aggressive orange foam applicator and again, inspect your results.

If neither of these options is getting the job done then you want to try a more aggressive product like the SSR2. Again, start with the least aggressive foam and if that isn't producing the desired results fast enough then try again with the most aggressive foam pad.

The idea behind removing swirls and scratches is to use the least aggressive products to get the job done so you leave the most amount of paint on the car.


Remember, removing swirls and scratches mean removing the paint surrounding the swirls and scratches in an effort to level or flatten out the surface.


What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats


:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike!

That is exactly what I was looking for. The swirls are not too bad. I can only notice them under direct sunlight on the hood and trunk. Being a silver car, they are somewhat hard to notice, but I know they are there, and I wand to do my best to remove them.
 
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