tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 11
Hi all,
Recently forum member CieraSL (Shane) started a thread about his G110V2 going kaputs on him. Being the owner of a G110V2, a mechanic by trade and having a rather extensive background in power tool repair I offered to do the repair for him if he was interested in shipping the polisher to me to repair and then ship it back to him. Well a few days ago I recieved this package in the mail.
I figured that since this cord replacement is something that a lot of these G110V2 polishers need and Shane has his other polishers as backup, I would take the time and do a photo tutorial so that other members here that otherwise wouldn't know what was involved in the repair can understand actually how simple the repair is to do. There are a few pitfalls along the way and I will do my best to highlight those potential problems for you as I take you through this tutorial. So here's what was in the package.
It is a clean machine, Shane clearly takes good care of his tools. The G110V2 is a really nice machine with plenty of power to get the job done. It has a nice feature that increases the current to the motor when a heavy load is applied to it. When you apply more pressure to the machine you can actually feel the power increase. It's too bad that they used such a lousy quality power cord and stress relief on such a nice tool.
In the photo below I am pointing to exactly where the wire breaks on these polishers. I had repaired my personal G110V2 three times before finally wiring in a higher quality cord.
From twisting, turning, bending and throwing the cord over your shoulder time and again the poor quality copper wire breaks inside of the strain relief. The strain relief is somewhat flimsy but I believe that it's the quality or rather the lack of quality in the actual cord that causes the problem. OK moving onward with the repair, below is a photo of the tools that I needed to make this repair which most folks probably have lying around the house or garage.
The speed controller, on/off switch and connecting wires are housed undernieth of the end housing where the cord itself goes into the polisher so naturally the first order of things is to remove the end housing. To remove the housing you must first remove the single screw that is shown in the photo below.
After removing the screw, it is important to take care in pulling the cover off as straight as possible because the speed control unit just sits in a groove under the cover and can be easily pulled out of the groove if you try bending and twisting the cover off. If the speed controller does become dislodged from the groove that it sits in it's no big deal, just make sure that there are no wires behind it and replace it into the groove. If you have a wire behind the speed controller preventing it from sitting exactly straight in it's little groove, replacing the cover can be a little tough. I'll cover more about this toward the end of this tutorial.
How I remove the cover is to sit in a chair and place the polishing head end of the polisher between my knees to have a good grip on the machine when I pull the cover upward while lightly pushing and wiggling the strain relief back and forth to assist it through the hole in the end of the end housing. Below is a photo of what you will find when you get the end housing off.
I contacted Shane and asked him what length he would like the cord to be and he said that he would like a 40 foot cord on the polisher so it would work perfectly in his work space without having to unplug the unit and plug it back in to work all the way around the vehicle that he is polishing. I call this working smarter not harder. A 50 foot 16 guage extension cord will handle the load demand of power tools up to 10 amps so I went out and found a nice flexible 16 guage outdoor duty extension cord to use for this project. The G110V2 having only an amp draw of 4.2, the 16 guage cord will be quite sufficient and flexible too. I was careful to select a cord that would be flexible to minus 40 degrees fahrenheit so that Shane wouldn't get all aggrivated every time he goes to roll the cord back up after using his polisher. IMO there is nothing worse than a non flexible electric cord or garden hose. (my biggest pet peave of all) Not only did I choose a flexible cord, I chose a yellow cord so that it would match the other yellow accents of the G110V2. Below is a photo of the cord.
OK so the next step is to get the old cord off of the polisher but there are a few important things to consider before doing this. the first being the placement or location of the original cord in relationship to the strain relief and the cord clamp on the underside of the end housing. Below is a photo of me measuring the location of the original cord.
Roughly 2 inches from the beginning of the strain relief to the end of the outer sheathing of the cord which extends about 3/8" through the cord clamp. I want to be sure to have these same measurements when placing the new cord onto the polisher.
The second consideration is that the G110V2 is a polarized power tool, meaning that it is double insulated and doesn't use a safety ground so later in the tutorial you'll see how I eliminate the ground wire and use a 2 prong plug end for polarized power tools at the other end of the cord but first, let's get rid of the old cord so let's first unscrew the 2 screws holding the cord clamp in place and remove the cord clamp.
Next cut the old cord off, but first a few considerations. I don't mean to be insulting to anyone in saying this but I have seen and done some really dumb stuff in my time. MAKE SURE THE TOOL IS UNPLUGGED FROM ANY ELECTRICAL OUTLETS. The second consideration is where on the cord we make the cut. To keep this repair as simple as possible I cut the wires off right where they go into the insulative sheathing. This way I have plenty of wire to work with when I pigtail the new cord into the polisher. Below is a photo of where I make the cut.
Now it's time to trim off the ground wire that doesn't get used on this tool. The less space we occupy under the end housing the better as there isn't much room under there to begin with.
Recently forum member CieraSL (Shane) started a thread about his G110V2 going kaputs on him. Being the owner of a G110V2, a mechanic by trade and having a rather extensive background in power tool repair I offered to do the repair for him if he was interested in shipping the polisher to me to repair and then ship it back to him. Well a few days ago I recieved this package in the mail.
I figured that since this cord replacement is something that a lot of these G110V2 polishers need and Shane has his other polishers as backup, I would take the time and do a photo tutorial so that other members here that otherwise wouldn't know what was involved in the repair can understand actually how simple the repair is to do. There are a few pitfalls along the way and I will do my best to highlight those potential problems for you as I take you through this tutorial. So here's what was in the package.
It is a clean machine, Shane clearly takes good care of his tools. The G110V2 is a really nice machine with plenty of power to get the job done. It has a nice feature that increases the current to the motor when a heavy load is applied to it. When you apply more pressure to the machine you can actually feel the power increase. It's too bad that they used such a lousy quality power cord and stress relief on such a nice tool.
In the photo below I am pointing to exactly where the wire breaks on these polishers. I had repaired my personal G110V2 three times before finally wiring in a higher quality cord.
From twisting, turning, bending and throwing the cord over your shoulder time and again the poor quality copper wire breaks inside of the strain relief. The strain relief is somewhat flimsy but I believe that it's the quality or rather the lack of quality in the actual cord that causes the problem. OK moving onward with the repair, below is a photo of the tools that I needed to make this repair which most folks probably have lying around the house or garage.
The speed controller, on/off switch and connecting wires are housed undernieth of the end housing where the cord itself goes into the polisher so naturally the first order of things is to remove the end housing. To remove the housing you must first remove the single screw that is shown in the photo below.
After removing the screw, it is important to take care in pulling the cover off as straight as possible because the speed control unit just sits in a groove under the cover and can be easily pulled out of the groove if you try bending and twisting the cover off. If the speed controller does become dislodged from the groove that it sits in it's no big deal, just make sure that there are no wires behind it and replace it into the groove. If you have a wire behind the speed controller preventing it from sitting exactly straight in it's little groove, replacing the cover can be a little tough. I'll cover more about this toward the end of this tutorial.
How I remove the cover is to sit in a chair and place the polishing head end of the polisher between my knees to have a good grip on the machine when I pull the cover upward while lightly pushing and wiggling the strain relief back and forth to assist it through the hole in the end of the end housing. Below is a photo of what you will find when you get the end housing off.
I contacted Shane and asked him what length he would like the cord to be and he said that he would like a 40 foot cord on the polisher so it would work perfectly in his work space without having to unplug the unit and plug it back in to work all the way around the vehicle that he is polishing. I call this working smarter not harder. A 50 foot 16 guage extension cord will handle the load demand of power tools up to 10 amps so I went out and found a nice flexible 16 guage outdoor duty extension cord to use for this project. The G110V2 having only an amp draw of 4.2, the 16 guage cord will be quite sufficient and flexible too. I was careful to select a cord that would be flexible to minus 40 degrees fahrenheit so that Shane wouldn't get all aggrivated every time he goes to roll the cord back up after using his polisher. IMO there is nothing worse than a non flexible electric cord or garden hose. (my biggest pet peave of all) Not only did I choose a flexible cord, I chose a yellow cord so that it would match the other yellow accents of the G110V2. Below is a photo of the cord.
OK so the next step is to get the old cord off of the polisher but there are a few important things to consider before doing this. the first being the placement or location of the original cord in relationship to the strain relief and the cord clamp on the underside of the end housing. Below is a photo of me measuring the location of the original cord.
Roughly 2 inches from the beginning of the strain relief to the end of the outer sheathing of the cord which extends about 3/8" through the cord clamp. I want to be sure to have these same measurements when placing the new cord onto the polisher.
The second consideration is that the G110V2 is a polarized power tool, meaning that it is double insulated and doesn't use a safety ground so later in the tutorial you'll see how I eliminate the ground wire and use a 2 prong plug end for polarized power tools at the other end of the cord but first, let's get rid of the old cord so let's first unscrew the 2 screws holding the cord clamp in place and remove the cord clamp.
Next cut the old cord off, but first a few considerations. I don't mean to be insulting to anyone in saying this but I have seen and done some really dumb stuff in my time. MAKE SURE THE TOOL IS UNPLUGGED FROM ANY ELECTRICAL OUTLETS. The second consideration is where on the cord we make the cut. To keep this repair as simple as possible I cut the wires off right where they go into the insulative sheathing. This way I have plenty of wire to work with when I pigtail the new cord into the polisher. Below is a photo of where I make the cut.
Now it's time to trim off the ground wire that doesn't get used on this tool. The less space we occupy under the end housing the better as there isn't much room under there to begin with.
