Gauge Cluster Polish

billboard2001

billboard2001

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I had looked around on the forum and hadn't found any answer to my question so I decided to just explore the subject myself, so here goes...

The issue I was interested in tackling is correcting the minor scratches/marring/smudges that occur on the soft plastic of a gauge cluster.
First off, a big thank you to Dominic S. for providing the demo gauge cluster (from a subaru), as it's much easier to experiment worry-free when it's not a cluster from a personal/customer rig.

I'm assuming other people have had issues with this as well, either when trying to clean the dust from the plastic or having a customer produce the scratching/marring themselves when cleaning their own interiors. Despite using what you think is light pressure, sometimes the plastic just ends up getting scratched, and it is frustrating. I know from experience that the Subaru and Toyota gauge plastic is pretty soft, but I haven't had experience with others and again, not really wanting to find out if I didn't have to.
Here is a picture that illustrates what I'm talking about.



Products I used:
-Meguiars M105 and M205 (polishes)
-Lake Country CCS Euro Foam Hand pad, Orange light cutting applicator
-Glasses/electronics cleaning cloth (such as the one Apple includes with iPads)
-High gsm microfiber for lightly wiping the polish off.

I started with the M105+orange pad and that seemed to remove the majority of the scratches, though it did leave a slight haze. I then moved on to the M205+orange pad to finish it up and it seemed to give a pretty good end result, though there still were some slight issues that I could never really get out.





Next, I tried using M205+electronics cloth and polished with my finger. I figure that this may be the easier method for in-place correction for the majority of the cases as not many people want to take out the gauge cluster. The results were the same, though the index finger was sore from all of the rubbing. I tried going in different directions so see if that would change the direction of the left over marks but it didn't really seem to change so I'm not sure if that is just an issue with the plastic itself or not?

If anyone else has had experience with this, whether using different methods to correct or just experience with plastics from different manufacturers please feel free to chime in! Overall it was worth doing as the final result was a big improvement from where it started...

 
You might get it a little more refined with some Meguiars PlastX. I take one of the lens cloths you speak of and wad it up in a little ball. Stick it inside of another lens cloth (such that it looks like you have a marble wrapped inside). This will give you a small, padded "polishing pad". Put a drop of PlastX on the pad and work it into the surface of the pad (basically, "prime" it). Then put another drop of product on the pad and begin polishing. Let the product do the work-- don't press hard. Work it though its cycle, letting up on the pressure even further toward the end. The lens will be hazed with product. Don't continue to rub it in at that point. Use an aerosol plastic cleaner (like Diamondite) on yet another lens cloth to gently wipe off the haze. Check your work and repeat as necessary.

I never get it 100% and don't chase 100% (unless I've taken the panel outside the vehicle). I am usually able to vastly improve guage panels this way.
 
That's awesome man, i always wondered if plastic x from megs would do anything?
None the less nice job and now i will be looking at my cluster saying to myself i really
need to correct it now lol.
 
IME plastx leaves a little marring on soft/sensitive plastics...
 
billboard2001 said:
I had looked around on the forum and hadn't found any answer to my question
Click to expand...


I actually have something written up on this topic somewhere, not sure how to do a seach for it. I also have this typed up in a how-to book for interior detailing. The book is finished, just needs to be assembled electronically.


PlastX actually works great for this as a one-step. The key is to start with cloth becaule like I type all the time,

Fiber is a form of abrasive -Mike Phillips


The re-polish using foam. The foam plus the abrasive technology in the PlastX will remove the marrking left by the individual fibers when a piece of microfiber or terrycloth is used for the initial rubbing.


Best thing is for car owners to NOT put scratches into plastic that's hard to reach and work on in the first place. I cover this in the interior detialing how-to book and also in my boat detailing book.


Good job. Great pictures. Since they're hosted on Photobucket I hope they don't disappear over time like happens...


:dblthumb2:
 
Another vote from PlastX.

When we bought my wife's previous car the person who prepped the car used some sort of cleaner that etched the plastic on the gauge cluster. Plastx did a really good job of restoring the surface to nearly new condition.
 
Thank you all for the responses. I shall continue experimenting with it though and likely start with some PlastX, as aerosols don't ship to Alaska. Boo.
I will continue to keep all my detailing pictures that I post in the forums via photobucket left alone so that the images remain. Nothing worse than going to see some before/afters and having nothing there (major let down, I know!)
 
billboard2001 said:
Thank you all for the responses. I shall continue experimenting with it though and likely start with some PlastX, as aerosols don't ship to Alaska. Boo.
I will continue to keep all my detailing pictures that I post in the forums via photobucket left alone so that the images remain. Nothing worse than going to see some before/afters and having nothing there (major let down, I know!)
Click to expand...

The aerosol is mostly a cleaner/protectant. Not much for defect removal. I think you'll be pleased with the PlastX. It's pretty remarkable stuff. As a side--- A couple dots of PlastX on a microfiber cleans head and taillights up very nicely.
 
What about if the thing is just dusty as heck and you want to clean it without introducing more scratches? whats the best chance at not doing that?
 
and you find "blotting" it works with electrostatically charged dust?
 
madmallard said:
and you find "blotting" it works with electrostatically charged dust?
Click to expand...

With a 400+ gsm towel, there's usually less dust after blotting than before. So, yes? The only reason I do that is to avoid touching/wiping it as much as possible due to how easy plastic panels scratch. The aerosol is a great cleaner if you want more power. But even the slightest wipe can instill micro-scratches if you're not careful.
 
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