Glass polishing and inducing micro marring...

Paul A.

Paul A.

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Mike, some guidance please when you get time.

I am practicing my glass polishing on my wife's car (of course). Using CarPro Ceriglass and carpro glass pads I've introduced some fine micro scratches consistent with pad rotation. I know I put them there because they weren't there before. This happened on her passenger rear side window (test area).

I've used both my Flex Beast and rotary and practiced your video to a "t". When this happens on paint (compound + wool pad etc.) I know how to remove them. Not so with glass.

Thanks.
 
Ouch!

This is a problem.


I've only rand into this one other time in my life and it was when mixing brands for pads and products. This is why in any video or article I specifically state if a company makes a polish and also offers a pad - then buy both from the same company - to reduce the risk of a problem like this.

At least this isn't happening on the driver's side of the windshield.

Here's the only help I can offer,

1: Re-check to make sure everything is clean and try again.

2: Shake the product well before use and during use.


The other thing you can try is troubleshooting. To do this you would test your process on different class, as in a different window or different car.


One more thing you can do is contact CarPro directly. See if they have any suggestions. I'm not sure how long Ceriglass has been around but it's been a few years.

Normally if this type of thing has happened to other people, it's common to contact the manufacturer meaning they may have a database of such issues and also a remedy.


Do keep us updated.


:)
 
I know Tampa is a bit a drive to Stuart, but if you want to drive over here I'll do my best to help you recover.

It will have to be after my upcoming class.


By the way, we're machine polishing glass on two cars in this class.


SHOCK and AWE Detailing Class! TOOLS - TOOLS - TOOLS!


We shot a brand new glass polishing video just last Thursday using this 1957 Chevrolet Corvette for MTE Mobile Tech Expo - no problems.

2021_Feb_Class_050.JPG





And the owner of this 1970 Ford Mustang Mach I says the windshield is so bad it's dangerous to drive at night.


1970_Mach1_001.JPG




:)
 
Thanks again, Mike!!! Yes, a bit of a drive but i sincerely appreciate the offer.

As a side note, your vid's lately have piqued my interest regarding glass polishing. GREAT stuff and thanks for all of it. Trying to work in an upsell but not before i perfect it.
 
Be sure to keep the Ceriglass damp. Do not dry buff.
 
Paul A. said:
Thanks again, Mike!!! Yes, a bit of a drive but i sincerely appreciate the offer.

As a side note, your vid's lately have piqued my interest regarding glass polishing.

GREAT stuff and thanks for all of it. Trying to work in an upsell but not before i perfect it.
Click to expand...


Copy that. I feel your pain. And I think Ron makes a great point too - stay liquid when buffing.


A few years ago we buffed the scratches out of the passenger side window glass on a first generation Camaro. Real bad ass big block car. No problems. So I know it can be done.



:)
 
If you read through this write-up,

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...how-remove-scratches-glass-4.html#post1088637


I normally teach "The Buddy System" when polishing glass. That is have a buddy nearby and have them mist a little water onto the glass as you're buffing. It's faster this way.


See me misting some water while my student buffs?

When machine polishing glass it helps to have a buddy to mist a little water while you're buffing because glass polishes tend to dry up quickly. This works best with a water sprayer that really does a good job of atomizing the water into a fine spray as this dramatically reduces any splatter mess.

Detailing_Class_in_Argentina_010.jpg



:)
 
I never found time to do a full write-up but here's an Audi, I forget if it's an R8 or R10?

Owner's buddy put about a 1" scratch in the back window. Took me about 3-4 hours but I sanded it out and then buffed out my sanding marks.

GLASS_SCRATCH_011.JPG


GLASS_SCRATCH_021.JPG



See the owner misting my work area with SONAX glass cleaner?

The Buddy System


:dblthumb2:
 
Mike,

Thanks for the extensive write-ups on this.

I'm guessing that it's the heat build-up that dries out the product.

Also, are there expiration dates on this stuff?
 
Paul A. said:
Mike, some guidance please when you get time.

I am practicing my glass polishing on my wife's car (of course). Using CarPro Ceriglass and carpro glass pads I've introduced some fine micro scratches consistent with pad rotation. I know I put them there because they weren't there before. This happened on her passenger rear side window (test area).

I've used both my Flex Beast and rotary and practiced your video to a "t". When this happens on paint (compound + wool pad etc.) I know how to remove them. Not so with glass.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have had the same exact issue occur on my windshield. I believe it’s caused by a a dirty pad. I was using a brand new pad too. To get the micro marring out I spent half a day with my rotary and still could not get it out. There is to much risk involved for me to actually retry with ceriglass and felt. I still do quick polish with foam pad and normal polish.
 
Prange said:
I'm guessing that it's the heat build-up that dries out the product.
Click to expand...

Yes. All the glass polishes I have used are water-based and the friction between the pad and the glass dries the product up fairly quickly.

There's also the air-current created by a spinning pad that doesn't "help" a liquid to stay liquid.

What's the opposite of the word "help"?



Prange said:
Also, are there expiration dates on this stuff?
Click to expand...

I don't think so... as a general rule of thumb, most car care products have a shelf life of about 3-5 years as long as they are not stored in extreme cold or extreme hot climates/environments.


:)
 
Thanks guys!

I ordered 2 more CP rayon glass pads to basically start over with fresh, clean pads. The pad i used HAS been used before and while I'm confident in my cleaning process maybe that could be the issue.

I am misting with water as I worked it and, again, for those attempting this...it IS messy!!!
 
I received my 2 brand spanking new Carpro glass pads and went at it again with my rotary.

Bingo!!! Nailed it and finally removed almost everything on that glass panel. I can only summize my pads weren't really FULLY clean?!

Glass polishing is certainly an exercise in perserverence.
 
Here's another tip from my experience...

Even though i covered up as much paint as I could, i still got some splatter. I mixed up some ONR and quickly wiped up any "oversplatter". Worked perfectly and took me what, 5 total mins in 2 hours time.
 
And when i say "an exercise in perserverance" consider what Mike doesn't really show...yup, ya keep doing the same thing in the same section for a good 20-30 mins!

Not like paint i.e. your test spot proves to you what works for paint and you do maybe 5-8 section passes and move on

Glass? Nope. Maybe hundreds of section passes ON THE SAME SECTION. The abrasion is so minimal because that surface is so hard. Don't lose patience...keep working.
 
Paul A. said:
And when i say "an exercise in perserverance" consider what Mike doesn't really show...yup, ya keep doing the same thing in the same section for a good 20-30 mins!

Not like paint i.e. your test spot proves to you what works for paint and you do maybe 5-8 section passes and move on

Glass? Nope. Maybe hundreds of section passes ON THE SAME SECTION. The abrasion is so minimal because that surface is so hard. Don't lose patience...keep working.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's why I hate glass polishing. I would rather three step bad paint than polish glass.
 
Maybe try the CeriGlass with a compounding foam pad instead of a rayon one for the last little bit?
 
Thanks Icky. I tried several combinations of pads on day 1 of this problem and nothing but simply a new, clean glass pad did anything. The only one that came close was one of my mf cutting pads. That pad was "sacrificed to the detailing gods" and will NOT use that anymore on paint!

As Mike mentions (I think) in one of his vids the abrasives in CerGlass get lost in foam.

Good thought though, Icarus. That was my thought too initially. Like paint correction step down (or up) the pad? Nope. Not with glass. Work "clean" with cerium oxide, clean glass pads and water and just keep going (and going, and going...).

What amazed me is how gradual the abrasion is with glass. Again, unlike paint where your test spot gives you immediate feedback, you really need to spend time with glass to see anything cutting away material. It was extremely satisfying to see the results though.

After some more practice I will be offering this service but, as Mike suggests, will charge according to the effort!
 
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