manateemark
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- Mar 26, 2015
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So I still cannot figure out glazes. Are they a necessary step to use before waxing? Do they actually do anything?
Glazes?
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ryandamartini
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They are not a necessary step. They will fill any shallow swirls etc. left after correction. They give a great look but it is not permanent.
I've put XMT carnauba glaze on a couple cars after correction that are heading to a show. It just makes the paint look like you could dive into it.
2011 Kona Blue
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Glazes offer no paint protection or correcton properties. It just makes the paint shine amazing as if you could swim in the cars paint. Lol
trekkeruss
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- Nov 25, 2013
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Not necessary, but if you've taken the time to wash, decontaminate, compound, and polish, why not glaze as well? I used to be a 100% Meguiar's Mirror Glaze product user, and #7 along with #26 (or #16), really looked great.
2011 Kona Blue
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I actually just used a glaze on my mustang. I polished it, glaze, sealant and carnauba wax. I actually used Chemical Guys glaze.
Desertnate
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- Aug 5, 2013
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I use them in the place of polishing, yet I am fully aware they are not permanent.
My routine with my personal vehicles is to detail them top to bottom twice a year. I polish in the Spring, glaze in the Fall. This allows me to go into winter with a good looking car, yet I'm not taking abrasives to my clear coat twice a year.
My routine with my personal vehicles is to detail them top to bottom twice a year. I polish in the Spring, glaze in the Fall. This allows me to go into winter with a good looking car, yet I'm not taking abrasives to my clear coat twice a year.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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The word "glaze" and "polish" are two words used to describe all types of products that may or may not be an actual glaze.
A true glaze would be products like 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.
I think I explain most everything about these words in this article,
Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes
:xyxthumbs:
2011 Kona Blue
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Mike. Phillips, I'm your opinion, what glaze do you like the best? Is that Meguiars Mirror 7 a good glaze?
rlmccarty2000
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- Dec 23, 2013
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There is a chart somewhere, maybe Autopia that has polishes and glazes and details their cutting power from 1 to 10. It may be helpful.
Don M
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- Jan 8, 2010
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I know that he REALLY likes #7 when working on abused single staged paint. Personally, I know that #7 on a clear coated car does make the shine pop a bit more but it does need to be sealed in with a wax or sealant.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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In general I don't use a "true" glaze when I detail cars and anytime I do use a product with the word "glaze" on it it's usually not really a glaze but some type of abrasive polish.
There are no "Wax Police" in this industry maintaining any type of standards for what companies use for words to describe their product so words become meaningless.
What I tell people is,
"Don't judge a product by the name on the label but what the product does"
A true glaze if a product that is wiped onto fresh paint at a body shop after they hack it up and return it to the customer.
I do use #7 to restore antique single stage paint. The name for #7 was originally
Sealer and Reseal Glaze
And this was an accurate wording for the product back in the 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, and into the 1980's. Then the name was changed because this is a water soluble product.
Starting in the 1970's and moving forward more synthetic paint sealants were introduced to the market to compete with Carnauba waxes so the masses expected any product with the word "seal" as in sealant or SEALER RESEAL to mean a paint sealant. So when #7 washed off in the first rain they assumed this sealant didn't work or last long.
They didn't know they were NOT using a paint sealant but pure polish or glaze.
I document the history and purpose of #7 in this article,
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Here's an excerpt....
MIKE PHILLIPS said:#7 Sealer Reseal Glaze = Show Car Glaze
Here’s a photo of a few bottles of #7 from my car wax collection. I have some older bottles from before WWII, but this picture shows the transition from when the name changed from Sealer and Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze.
(Click here for a larger picture)
The glass bottle on the left hand side is post-WWII. You can identify glass bottles as pre-WWII or post-WWII by the name on the label. Pre-WWII bottles will say Mirror Bright on the front label and post-WWII bottles will have Mirror Glaze on the bottle. This has to so with a posterity program instigated by the U.S. Government at the start of World War II which prevented companies from raising prices on existing products; because the cost of raw materials were increasing due to the war a lot of companies couldn’t make a profit under the new regulations so to get around them they would introduce a new product line at a higher price point. These could be the same physical products but introduced as a new product line by giving the products different names.
#7 Show Car Glaze as it’s called today is what’s referred to as a non-abrasive pure polish, it’s not for abrading paint but instead for maintaining paint and creating a beautiful finish. There’s a lot of confusion over this product and any product that uses the word polish in the product's name or on the label because the word polish is usually interpreted to mean some type of abrasive product as in a rubbing or polishing compound. While that might be true for some products it’s not true for this product.
Sometimes I have to remind people that #7 has been around long before plastic was invented, thus the glass bottles. The plastic "cylinder" bottle you see below, (just to the right of the glass bottle), was the first plastic bottle used for #7 and was introduced I think in the late 1950's, maybe early 1960's.
The 4th bottle from the right shows when they changed the name from Sealer Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze primarily because as our lingo changed in the car appearance world. People were confusing the word "Sealer" with the word "Sealant" and M07 is water-soluble. Hopefully everyone reading this can understand why that kind of confusion could be a problem in the enthusiast or consumer market.
The third bottle from the right shows the label during the transition when the name was changed. If you look closely under the words Show Car Glaze it reads, (Same as Sealer and Reseal Glaze)
Transition Label Circa Late 1980's or 1990's
Just in case you don’t understand why there was some confusion over the use of the word "Sealer" here’s why; a paint sealant is for protection and should last through inclement weather and repeated car washings. #7 is water soluble; that means it will break down in inclement weather or with repeated washings. It offers no lasting characteristics. It’s not supposed to be a paint protectant, but a glaze that’s safe for use on fresh paint and will give paint a wet-look.
The name sealer and reseal glaze came from it's ability to hide or mask hairline scratches temporarily, or in other words it would seal hairline scratches and as it wore off and was re-applied it would reseal, or re-hide hairline scratches.
In todays detailing lingo hairline scratches = swirls.
#7 has no protection ability and no lasting ability. So when the word sealant became more commonly used in the car wax market people were confusing the word sealer with sealant and purchasing and using the product thinking it was a paint sealant that would last for a long time and protect for a long time when in fact it's nickname is Queen-For-The-Day, in that car guys would wipe their car down with #7 to give it the wet-look for the day of the big car show but the first time the car is washed the extremely wet look the product would impart to paint would disappear as the water soluble oils would wash off with the rinse water.
Anyway, the name was changed sometime in the early 1990’s as back in the 1980’s and continuing through to even today, a lot of “paint sealants" have been introduced in the car appearance market to compete along side Carnauba car waxes. So to avoid confusion the name was changed to reflect, (no pun intended), what this product is and has been famous for over the last century and that’s create a deep, wet shine on show cars.
Bringing the dead back to life...
Besides being used as described above, #7 is also famous for its ability to revive dead, oxidized single stage paints. This has to do with the unique feeder-oil formula created by Frank Meguiar’s Jr. back in the early days of Meguiar’s which was also the early days of the Automobile. Meguiar’s was founded in 1901 and for perspective, only a few years earlier in 1886, Karl Benz was awarded a patent for a gas-fueled car and it wasn’t until 1908 that Henry Ford introduced the Model T.
I don’t know exactly when #7 was introduced but I think sometime in the early 1920’s, like 1923 or 1924. While #7 may have been introduced in the 1920’s, the formula that became #7 was around even earlier, possibly back to 1901. Here's a collection of 4 very old Mirror Bright polishes; it is my opinion that the formulas used in these products were pre-cursors to what became #7 Sealer and Reseal Glaze.
Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline.com
The entire article is worthy of a read and you'll see amazing before and after transformations throughout the thread as over the years people find this article, put the technique to work and then share their before and after pictures in the thread.
The right thing for them to have done would have been to created a NEW and dedicated thread just for their extreme makeover and then reference my article but most people don't get that deep in the forum world and don't consider proper netiquette... they just post.
It's the only product I know of that is for the most part formula unchanged since the time of the Ford Model T.
Another way of saying the above is,
It's the only product I know of that is for the most part formula unchanged since the time is the FIRST AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS.
Remember... we've only had the "automobile" for about 100 years. Before that we all rode horses. Car paint wasn't invented till AFTER the car was invented.
I challenge anyone to find a paint care product that's still on the market today that's been around since the time of the Model T. Anyone?
Here's the most rewarding "after" shot from any car I've restored the paint on using a true glaze.
Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips
Applying #7 to a modern clearcoat is for the most part a waste of time and product. A person would be better served using a high quality fine cut polish like Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish and then sealing the paint with a wax, sealant or coating.
2011 Kona Blue
New member
- Mar 18, 2015
- 421
- 0
In general I don't use a "true" glaze when I detail cars and anytime I do use a product with the word "glaze" on it it's usually not really a glaze but some type of abrasive polish.
There are no "Wax Police" in this industry maintaining any type of standards for what companies use for words to describe their product so words become meaningless.
What I tell people is,
"Don't judge a product by the name on the label but what the product does"
A true glaze if a product that is wiped onto fresh paint at a body shop after they hack it up and return it to the customer.
I do use #7 to restore antique single stage paint. The name for #7 was originally
Sealer and Reseal Glaze
And this was an accurate wording for the product back in the 1920's, 1930's, 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's, and into the 1980's. Then the name was changed because this is a water soluble product.
Starting in the 1970's and moving forward more synthetic paint sealants were introduced to the market to compete with Carnauba waxes so the masses expected any product with the word "seal" as in sealant or SEALER RESEAL to mean a paint sealant. So when #7 washed off in the first rain they assumed this sealant didn't work or last long.
They didn't know they were NOT using a paint sealant but pure polish or glaze.
I document the history and purpose of #7 in this article,
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Here's an excerpt....
The entire article is worthy of a read and you'll see amazing before and after transformations throughout the thread as over the years people find this article, put the technique to work and then share their before and after pictures in the thread.
The right thing for them to have done would have been to created a NEW and dedicated thread just for their extreme makeover and then reference my article but most people don't get that deep in the forum world and don't consider proper netiquette... they just post.
It's the only product I know of that is for the most part formula unchanged since the time of the Ford Model T.
Another way of saying the above is,
It's the only product I know of that is for the most part formula unchanged since the time is the FIRST AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS.
Remember... we've only had the "automobile" for about 100 years. Before that we all rode horses. Car paint wasn't invented till AFTER the car was invented.
I challenge anyone to find a paint care product that's still on the market today that's been around since the time of the Model T. Anyone?
Here's the most rewarding "after" shot from any car I've restored the paint on using a true glaze.
Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips
Applying #7 to a modern clearcoat is for the most part a waste of time and product. A person would be better served using a high quality fine cut polish like Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish and then sealing the paint with a wax, sealant or coating.
Thank you very much. Great info!
manateemark
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- Mar 26, 2015
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That really solved a lot of my questions about it. Now I know that they are for the most part a complete waste of time and money.
blown03
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- Mar 14, 2013
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I wouldn't go that far tho bro , like previous posters said they can really add to the shine , before I learned how to do corrections I always had a coat on my Black Cobra for the weekend . They're easy to use , they do hide a little and well besides the amazing smell Poorboy's World Black Hole Show Glaze has , it will clean the paint some too. mmmmm I can smell that grape now lol :xyxthumbs:
Daren
Rsurfer
Well-known member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,159
- 26
Mike, how about 305?
Meguiars 305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze
Meguiars 305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze
Desertnate
Well-known member
- Aug 5, 2013
- 6,239
- 292
Additionally, if you own vehicles for a long time and don't want to be continuously wearing down the clear coat year after year with polishing, they serve as a good substitute.
By using a glaze in my rotation, I only polish once a year now versus twice. I glaze in the fall knowing my car will get abused through the winter and the effort of polishing will quickly un-done.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
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^^^:iagree:...with Daren^^^
If you want to see something that'll have
folks' searching for their polarized shades :coolgleam: ...
After you're done with the paint "correction step(s)"...
Apply 3M IHG, followed by a Hybrid-Wax/Sealant such as
3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax!!
And/Or:
I've used the below Meguiar's product, since it has become available, followed with either Meguiar's M21 2.0/M26...
with excellent results.
rops:Bob
2011 Kona Blue
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- Mar 18, 2015
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What's the difference between the Meguiars 305 Ultra Finishing glaze and the #7 Meguiars glaze?
FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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"Meguiars M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze is the only
body-shop safe glaze formulated with real wax protection". ~Meguiar's
Bob
2011 Kona Blue
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- Mar 18, 2015
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Does that mean the Meguiars M305 Glaze is a better quality glaze over #7.