Going to give coatings another try...just bought the WG kit

Klasse Act

Klasse Act

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So I first tried a paint coating when I got my car back in winter of 2014, couldn't wait for spring. That paint coating was from Duragloss so I expected great results based off of past performance of all the other products I've tried from them. I have to admit that I really wanted to get my then brand new car coated, so I applied it, after a polishing with M101 to make sure it was spot on. The temp outside was 56 and I figured it was atleast 60 down in the garage. The product went on fine and it sat for an entire day. I was pretty happy with the results from what I can remember but I decided to apply a 2nd coat when it reached a warmer temp, once again, I was pretty happy with the results. Fast forward about 6 more weeks and I noticed the gloss wasn't as strong as it had been when I first applied it. At this point I decided to apply a 3rd coat when it was about 80 outside but at this point I had my doubts, I ended up applying DG AW to give it a boost, so I just chalked it up and moved on from there.

The following year I went back to waxes and sealants and liked doing that because I like doing "something" to my car, same held true for 2016, waxes and sealants and spray waxes all in the mix, car looked great all the time. I have to admit that when I saw some of the players stepping into the game for those non professional installers I became interested once again. I saw Sonax was due to come out with their own paint coating but its not out yet, so I decided to go with Wolfgang and I did because of the performance of their rinseless wash, not to mention the reviews but the rinseless wash has been so damn impressive that their coating HAS to be equally impressive.

I ordered it yesterday to take advantage of the 20% and free shipping, that cuts into the price of $129.00, anyone is going to that and I have to admit that Opti Gloss Coat was actually in my cart due to an even lower price and larger size, not to mention that I have used that product on 3 cars in the past year and half with great success due to ease of use and finish, not to mention another product with a great rep. That said, I removed it from my cart and added WG based on their reviews and my own history with their product line.

So for those who've used this product, any suggestions you wanna give me? I'm pretty comfortable applying coatings as the ones I've used have a great working time and every one of them that I've used in the past allows me to wipe down high spots on site, I like that and wanna know is this the case with WG paint coating. Also one more question and this is pretty important, how long do I need to wait to apply and 2nd coat? I ask because I wanna coat the sh!t out o the paint and really leave it alone other than routine RW's and WW's. Also, can I use my FrankenDetailer once a month to just give it a kick in appearance or any other spray wax?

I know this is alot of questions but I trust the experienced people here on AG to come through for me, I have atleast 5 monthes till I use this product on my car and yes, its going to be polished with M101 once again to give it a flawless finish prior to coating.
 
I'd give it about two hours before a second coat just to be safe. I don't know if it's just me but I find three costs is the magical number to make the coating look best but I find with every coating I've used, three layers makes it look the glossiest. You can use whatever spray detailer you want as long as it works for you. Just make sure you use the Wolfgang paint prep for it, I find chemical synergy is more important with coatings than traditional wax or sealant. Also after you coat the car, I would give it a fallout remover treatment once per year.
 
I can't answer any of your questions, but I decided to go back down the coating rabbit hole again as well. I thought long and hard about which coating to use...

To make a long story short - I boiled it down to Gloss Coat, McKees 37, or Pinnacle BL.

I decided to go with PBL, mainly because it contains several application per purchase.

We will see how it holds up to the salt and snow up here. All my results and opinions will be posted.

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I was given PBL paint coating by KevinWelch because he didn't care for it too much. I applied it to my car in Nov of 2015 to get me through the winter and it actually did a great job and looked great doing it. I didn't notice a decrease in GLOSS either, so IMO it's a much better product than DG and it hurts me to say that because DG was generous enough to me to give me a kit to giveaway at one of our detail days when it first came out. I also checked DG's site here on AG and don't see the paint coating there anymore, hmmmm.


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Remember some "toppers" can actually clog coatings. So once in a while if you see a fall off of looks/beading/sheeting, do a decon wash. Then judge.
 
Willsport3, I appreciate the info on the 2 hour wait time as well as the 3 coats. I plan on using the entire 15 ml when I do my car in the spring. I will do chemical decontamination and then a Griot's clay mit wipe prior to polishing and then the WGUPC, entire tube.

Keep the responses coming everyone👈

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ronkh57 said:
Remember some "toppers" can actually clog coatings. So once in a while if you see a fall off of looks/beading/sheeting, do a decon wash. Then judge.
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I agree with Ron. A decon wash helps a lot with a coated vehicle.
 
I found the 2nd & 3rd application of WGUC more of a PIA and the results looked no different then the 1rst application. I am not sure I would do a 2nd or 3rd application of WGUC again when the time comes. I have not topped our vehicles and have only performed WG Rinseless washes. Both still bead like they were just applied, I also have not done a Decon wash yet either. I will say that the CQUK had tighter beads then WGUC.
 
I think you'll like the WG coating, Roger. I used it on the driver quarter panel after I got hit again a month or so ago as well as the wheels. I've used it on my wife's windows and hood. It goes on incredibly easily and buffs off almost effortlessly. Very glossy. It should make your metal flake really pop.

I don't care for the Lake Country foam pads that are recommended for the application. I prefer using the microfiber suede to apply this and other coatings. There's plenty of coating in the syringe for a number of applications.

Of note: Gyeon Mohs is an excellent coating as well. I've been using PA Viking Spritz and may go to PA Cosmic next round. Hard to say, because the Gyeon is holding up like a champ and I may wait out the two years. :(
 
The Guz said:
I agree with Ron. A decon wash helps a lot with a coated vehicle.
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Just so I'm clear, when you say decon wash your talking about doing a clay towel wipe down with a wash or are talking about using IronX or equivalent once a year?

I've been using my speed prep towel (fine grade) about every 4-6 weeks on my car during the 3 seasons to keep it free of embedded contaminants.

Kevin, who has that applicator your talking about? When using Gloss Coat I used the provided applicator and had no issues, it even had a pocket on the one side to make it even easier. I also have some unused cotton and mf applicators as well in my collection.

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First off. That's great that you decided on Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating. I was lucky enough to test this product and apply it to some of my customers cars. This coating is what Mike Phillips calls "Bubba Proof"

This coating wipe on very easy and wipes off even easier! The key with this coating is a little goes a long way! Wipe on. Then once it starts to flash wipe off. If it becomes a bit difficult to wipe then start wiping sooner.

Here's a review I just received a couple weeks ago from one of my clients who's Hellcat received Uber Ceramic Coating.

And Uber Rinseless wash used as maintenance with Uber Ceramic Coating is a great combo.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...erm-wolfgang-uber-ceramic-coating-update.html
 
I think you made a great choice... the Wolfgang Uber coating is quite durable, very glossy, and super easy to apply and remove. If you properly prep the paint and have a blank canvas, you should note a big difference. I applied thin and sparingly and had my son buff off any excess. My son is 11 and did so lightly.
 
Klasse Act said:
Kevin, who has that applicator your talking about? When using Gloss Coat I used the provided applicator and had no issues, it even had a pocket on the one side to make it even easier. I also have some unused cotton and mf applicators as well in my collection.
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Just my personal preference, but I use these:

CarPro Cquartz Applicator

CarPro Suede Microfiber Cloths, suede microfibre cloths, microfiber towels, cquartz microfiber

The larger sheets of MF suede I cut up into smaller squares. I make 2" x 2" squares and just use my fingers to weave them in and out of tight areas like door handles and wheel spokes.

They come with all the Gyeon coating products as well as the Carpro coating products.
 
Klasse Act said:
Just so I'm clear, when you say decon wash your talking about doing a clay towel wipe down with a wash or are talking about using IronX or equivalent once a year?

I've been using my speed prep towel (fine grade) about every 4-6 weeks on my car during the 3 seasons to keep it free of embedded contaminants.
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No claying unless the manufacturer states it is ok. No need to compromise the coating. I would recommend the use of an iron remover 1-2 times a year. At the same time when you use the iron remover, mix a little APC into your bucket wash to give you a little more cleaning power to remove the built up heavier road grime. I've done this with gloss coat, my mom's which has PBL V2 and on my car with Ameriarmour to keep most contaminants off. I would also recommend using a car wash with no wax in it.

Gloss Coat on the other hand can be clayed by using the optimum car wax as clay lube and a fine grade clay or clay alternative. Search youtube for the wash, clay, wax method. Will work for those others that gloss coat.
 
The Guz is quite correct, no claying. I would avoid claying period, but using something like Iron X, Tar X, give your car a good spray down. I find once a year is fine unless there's an environmental concern based on where your car is parked for work or whatever the case is. Also, I would suggest CarPros IronX snowfoam, it cuts through grease and what not quite well. I'm not sure what other companies manufacture that's like the IronX Snowfoam but anything like that will work. A small amount of APC in your bucket wash will do wonders for a coated car, as long as you make sure you rinse thoroughly. I wouldn't necesarily clay because if you do make a mistake you'll marr your perfectly corrected paint.
 
Well I don't use clay anymore but I do use a clay towel, fine grade speedy prep towel, once a month to keep the paint smooth. I do this when doing a RW but once the panel is cleaned I would re-soak the panel and wipe down with the speedy prep towel to decon the paint. I have recently bought both of the Griot's clay towels but the fine grade will the one I'll using most of the time as I stay ontop of my car and the other Griot's towel will be used for cars I do on the side that are neglected. I have never had any marring with my clay towel except when my Nanoskin gave up the ghost and boy did it marr the paint, looked like a gooey mess but I was able to remove with hand polishing.

Now about IronX once a year on a coated car, IMO this seems a bit extreme as its so strong and this would certainly compromise the paint coating, I feel using a fine grade clay towel as a part of a routine maintainence program, atleast this is what I've been doing.

I appreciate all the info here, not only am I learning something but surely others are as well:props:
 
A clay towel is still claying. Hence the name clay lol. I would not recommend claying unless the manufacturer states that it is safe. Just trying to save you the hassle of possibly causing marring or compromising the coating as it is technically a form a mechanical abrasion.

Ironx is perfectly fine on coatings. Remember coatings can handle higher levels of ph compared to a wax or sealant. No need to worry about compromising the coating. If it does then you know that coating is not good.
 
IronX would not compromise the paint coating, it was made for use on coated cars. It will strip a lot of wax and compromise sealants (not removal) to a certain point but for a car that is already coated, it's not an issue. As long as you rinse off thoroughly, it won't compromise the paint coating.
 
You guys are really educating me on Iron X. I thought it was so strong that it would deteriorate even the best paint coating. I understand that even a fine grade clay towel is still touching the paint and wearing down a coating but I honestly thought it was the "lesser of 2 evils" when it came to decon. I have NEVER had marring when using any of my clay towels (except when my Nanoskin gave up the ghost and when it did....IT DID) so I don't worry about too much honestly.

All this said, it's why I wanna apply 2x's WGU paint coating when I do it, waiting a hrs in between isn't that long as the 2nd coat of coating should go on VERY easy.

BTW how does WGU paint coating play with glass?

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Klasse Act said:
Well I don't use clay anymore but I do use a clay towel, fine grade speedy prep towel, once a month to keep the paint smooth.

Now about IronX once a year on a coated car, IMO this seems a bit extreme as its so strong and this would certainly compromise the paint coating, I feel using a fine grade clay towel as a part of a routine maintainence program, atleast this is what I've been doing.
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You clay once a month? WOW! I clay only when necessary. Did both cars in the early spring Prep and never had to do them again. Just rinseless washed the van today and it's as glassy smooth and perfect as always.

Iron X for each after winter but there too, don't find it necessary during the summer. Although I keep them both pretty clean at all times.
 
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