Thanks for all the replies,
We have great forum members and a friendly forum environment...
I guess I was sorta overwhelmed with all the new product knowledge and trying to get by on as little as possible to start (as in number off pads)
I guess my biggest question is on a newish car in decent to great condition, can I just get by with the orange pads (assuming that speed of the da and the product used with it determines the cut) or should I be aiming at multiple types, like someone pointed out, the black griots pad was almost useless.
Great questions here's the answer...
Probably.
You won't know what you can do until you do a Test Spot.
In the video I shared, it goes over how to do a test spot and then inspect your results, when you have a few minutes, watch the video, it's very good with easy to understand information.
My guess is, with only light or shallow scratching, you can probably buff out the entire car with one or a few foam polishing pads and probably the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Just clean your pad often after buffing out sections of paint.
I explain how to buff out a car in the video I shared and the below is also shared in the video...
The Definition of a Section Pass by Mike Phillips
The definition of a pass
There are two definitions of the word pass as it relates to machine polishing with any type of machine.
Single Pass
A single pass is just that. It's when you move the polisher from one side of the section you're buffing to the other side of the section you're buffing. That's a single pass.
Section Pass
A section pass is when you move the polisher back and forth, or front to back with enough single overlapping passes to cover the entire section
one time. That's a section pass.
How many section passes to make to one area of paint
In most cases if you're removing any substantial below surface defects you're going to make 6-8 section passes to the section you’re working before you either feel comfortable you've removed the defects or you're at the end of the
buffing cycle for the product you're using.
Years ago, when trying to figure out how to teach a person how to buff out a car using a keyboard I came up with the term
Section Pass or
Section Passes.
A section pass or passes is the way you move a polisher to buff out a section of paint. You can't buff out entire panels at a time as paint is too hard and many panels are too large to actually buff out an entire panel at one time. So you take larger panels and divide them up into smaller section like you see in this picture.
You divide large panels into smaller sections and then buff one section at a time. For correction work you'll probably need to do 6-8 section passes for each section of paint you buff.
When you move onto a new section, overlap a little into the previous section for what I call UMR
UMR = Uniform Material Removal
Here, just wrote a brand new article to explain this concept...
UMR = Uniform Material Removal - Removing the same amount of paint when doing correction work for a uniform appearance
e.g. can I use the orange pad (which I can buy as many as I want today versus ordering online and paying shipping) for both something like compound for things that polish wont take out, and also as the last step for just polish before applying wax with the red pad, or will over time these orange pads prove to be too abrasive and wear out the paint abnormally fast.
The pads will become LESS abrasive with use, not more abrasive.
Wet pads don't cut well.
Ask the guys behind the counter about the relationship between correcting paint with clean dry pads and wet soggy pads and see what they say? :laughing:
Clearcoats are hard for the most part. There are some exceptions but generally speaking, clearcoat paints are harder than traditional single stage paints and in the history of the "car" we've only had 2 basic paint system. You'll find out as you buff out more cars.
The product description for the Black Griots Pad (which I assume would line up with the white/green LC pad) says for dark cars and delicate paint, seems less versatile and more of a stop gap between the orange and red pads for specific use scenarios, not a normal item which people will buy bunches of as a normal step to doing a 3 step process.
Compounding or removing the defects is the step that takes the longest.
For the average size passenger car, to ONLY compound it with a simple orbital polisher, (that's the Griot's, the Porter Cable, the Meguiar's MT300, etc.), will take you about 6 hours if your good and if your fast and if you don't take breaks.
The reason why is because you CANNOT move the polisher fast over the surface simply to get the job done faster. You must move the polisher slowly and again, divide larger panels into smaller sections. I speak from experience, the fastest a really good detailer could buff out a 2-door Honda Accord that needs compounding would maybe be 4 hours, maybe... for most you're looking at 6 hours and that's just the compounding step.
Again, watch the video. It' is the most detailed video I've ever made and the most detailed video I've ever watched compared to what others have made and most of the techniques it I am the original source for, others learned it from me.
I'm trying to get enough pads today when I pick up the da to actually do the one step but feel as If i buy 3 or 4 orange pads just to use it one time while I order more online I have unnecessarily wasted money if said orange pads are only useful for compounding (which I will not need much of unless I abuse the paint surface) etc and not finish polishing
If it were me and I was buffing out a 2015 Honda Civic with light swirls, for the first machine step I would want to have 6 pads minimum.
You can buff out sections so much faster with a clean dry pad than trying to limp along with a wet soggy pad.
Also - your pads will last longer overall or over time. When people try to buff out cars using one or two pads, it punishes the pads and they give up. Using a pad for a panel and then taking it off and switching to a new pad makes your pads last longer over time.
Been there... detailed that...
