Griot's PFM towels less absorbant... what did I do?

RippyD

Active member
Jan 24, 2016
1,258
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I have both sizes. I use the small ones more often. Was drying the car the other day and noticed they are pushing some water around. They never used to do that. My large ones are fine. The smaller ones that get used more are the problem.

So what the heck did I do wrong? I always wash with 3D Towel Kleen. Always warm water with a pre-wash. Always multiple rinses. I sometimes use vinegar in the rinse cycle. I separate my towels but don't do drying towels by themselves. (Yes, I'm get that many have recommended this.) I always dry them on the lowest possible setting. They could have gotten washed with MF used to apply or remove sealants. Problem?

And is there a way to restore them to their previous absorbency? They look fine visually.
 
I have both sizes. I use the small ones more often. Was drying the car the other day and noticed they are pushing some water around. They never used to do that. My large ones are fine. The smaller ones that get used more are the problem.

So what the heck did I do wrong? I always wash with 3D Towel Kleen. Always warm water with a pre-wash. Always multiple rinses. I sometimes use vinegar in the rinse cycle. I separate my towels but don't do drying towels by themselves. (Yes, I'm get that many have recommended this.) I always dry them on the lowest possible setting. They could have gotten washed with MF used to apply or remove sealants. Problem?

And is there a way to restore them to their previous absorbency? They look fine visually.

You should be washing with hot water.
Do you use a drying aid? If so, which 1?
 
I have both sizes. I use the small ones more often. Was drying the car the other day and noticed they are pushing some water around. They never used to do that. My large ones are fine. The smaller ones that get used more are the problem.

So what the heck did I do wrong? I always wash with 3D Towel Kleen. Always warm water with a pre-wash. Always multiple rinses. I sometimes use vinegar in the rinse cycle. I separate my towels but don't do drying towels by themselves. (Yes, I'm get that many have recommended this.) I always dry them on the lowest possible setting. They could have gotten washed with MF used to apply or remove sealants. Problem?

And is there a way to restore them to their previous absorbency? They look fine visually.

As previously mentioned, using drying aids over time could make the towel itself hydrophobic. I would think a good pre wash and wash would remove this though. Try soaking the towel in some degreaser before a wash to remove any detailer, wax, and sealant before your wash. Hope this could help.


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Thanks for the replies. I don't use a drying aid with those towels. When I use a drying aid it's always with different ones (my favorite rinseless towel which is also a pretty good drying towel). I'll try hot water washing to see if that revives them. There's been some debate here about hot water harming the fibers so I played it safe. I can also soak in a degreaser first.
 
Thanks for the replies. I don't use a drying aid with those towels. When I use a drying aid it's always with different ones (my favorite rinseless towel which is also a pretty good drying towel). I'll try hot water washing to see if that revives them. There's been some debate here about hot water harming the fibers so I played it safe. I can also soak in a degreaser first.

The directions on the label of the Griots PFM towel say to wash with hot water.

Don’t soak it with degreaser.
 
You should be washing with hot water.
Do you use a drying aid? If so, which 1?

+1, absolutely agree that you need to try hot water.

+2 for the drying aid question. Which one?

I don't believe residential hot water will damage microfiber. Normal hot water temperature is between 110F-130F, hardly enough to compared to water drops on black paint on a hot day in a humid climate. Water is going to act as a heat sink and the microfiber will never exceed the temperature of the water. Drying (in a dryer) is different. You want to be careful with drying on high heat. Temps can exceed 180F in there and there is nothing to dissipate the heat if a hot spot is created due to the tumbling action.

I use spray wax as a drying agent which is naturally going to challenge absorbency of the microfiber. I haven't even tried drying a car without a drying agent (ostensibly to break down the surface tension of the water causing the fibers to wick it away from the paint) in many years. Someone here turned me on to QD and spray waxes as drying agent and I was hooked. Severely reduces chances of marring, too. I can see no negative (other than cost) from using a drying agent every time a towel touches my paint.
 
As previously mentioned, using drying aids over time could make the towel itself hydrophobic. I would think a good pre wash and wash would remove this though. Try soaking the towel in some degreaser before a wash to remove any detailer, wax, and sealant before your wash. Hope this could help.


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I tend to agree with this to a certain extent but the drying aid will mitigate this effect by breaking down the surface tension of the water drops on the paint. My feeling is that if my towels are "tainted" with a drying agent then I need to always use a drying agent. I haven't dried paint without a drying agent in years, mainly because I believe it reduces marring.
 
If I remember correctly you have hard water?

Do you let the drying towels dry before washing them? If so do a couple of washes after each other with a little stronger dilution of Towel Kleen and white vinegar in the rinse cycle and quite alot of it. And since instructions says you can wash with hot water do so. The thing I think of is if dried towels may clogg the mf from lime scale and other contaminants from the water. If doing bigger loads with drying towels keep them wet till you do so. And ad a little of Towel Kleen in the bucket to get a presoak to the wash. I put a grit guard upside down over the towels in the bucket to keep them under the water. And do so with pads and other towels too.
 
I would lean towards something like a wax still deep in the fibers, or all the soap not getting rinsed out.
 
I have soft water. I haven't every soaked my PFM towels since they never have product on them. Soap not getting rinsed out doesn't seem likely. Triple rinse on a front loader (which I realize doesn't rinse as well as a top loader.) I don't over-use the soap. I'll go with hot water wash and extra rinses then report back.
 
Sorry I remembered incorrectly. Test the hot water wash as you said. Is it possible that you had some fabric softerner leftovers in the washer that could got in the PFM towels? The solution to that is to wash them as useally on hot water setting and white vinegar in the rinse cycle after every use.
 
I’ve gone they this myself with towels. The solution I have found is to presoak in hot water with OPC. Then agitate by hand. Finally wash as normal. Not sure if something gets in the towels from repeated drying of autos or perhaps residual fabric softeners get in the towels.
 
Good call on the fabric softener. Don't have any in my house.
 
As previously mentioned, using drying aids over time could make the towel itself hydrophobic. I would think a good pre wash and wash would remove this though. Try soaking the towel in some degreaser before a wash to remove any detailer, wax, and sealant before your wash. Hope this could help.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app

I learned that one the hard way. Used C2v3 diluted 10:1 as a drying aid and ruined a brand new drying towel. Washed it probably 10 times and it would come out if the washing machine bone dry.
 
After you do your normal wash routine, do a hot quick wash just to see how much it suds up. You have to do a hot wash to look check for suds instead of just the rinse cycle cause modern washer use cold water for the rinse cycle and the cold water doesn't draw the detergent out of the towels and suds it up in the water like hot water does. If you're like me, you'll still have soap left. I figured out this was because there was left over detergent in the washer and regular clothes detergent will never come out of MF towels in my experience. The solution to get all the soap out of my towels was to use the washers self clean cycle (it's AMAZING how much suds this creates) before washing the MF towels using a MF detergent. I don't know if this will fix your absorbency issue but it's worth trying as it's the only I've been able to get my towels to rinse clean.

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I have both sizes. I use the small ones more often. Was drying the car the other day and noticed they are pushing some water around. They never used to do that. My large ones are fine. The smaller ones that get used more are the problem.

So what the heck did I do wrong? I always wash with 3D Towel Kleen. Always warm water with a pre-wash. Always multiple rinses. I sometimes use vinegar in the rinse cycle. I separate my towels but don't do drying towels by themselves. (Yes, I'm get that many have recommended this.) I always dry them on the lowest possible setting. They could have gotten washed with MF used to apply or remove sealants. Problem?

And is there a way to restore them to their previous absorbency? They look fine visually.

Obviously these get washed more than the large ones. Something I started doing was running a little microfiber detergent through a rinse and spin cycle before I wash towels that way any residual fabric softner is removed from the entire system.
 
This may sound weird
May i ask what car soap you using and the LSP?
Typically N-914, but I also use Reset, Duragloss 901, and in the summer several other rinseless products. These towels see either water on N-914 at 256:1 90% of the time. LSPs are all applied with other towels, but if you want to know I've got about 40 LSPs going right now. :) My coated car gets Reload occasionally (Ech2o+Reload). The others currently have mostly Dodo Future Armour and Sonax PNS. I typically don't use a drying aid.

Edit: cleaned up left over text.
 
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