Gyeon Prime to remove marring

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kodakdave

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Hey everyone,

Before the summer starts i would like to clean up my paint from the mild marring that i made over 6 months of washing/drying.

Does anyone have experience with the correcting abilities that Gyeon Prime has with a polishing pad? it would be amazing to 1 step the paint, wait 24hrs and apply 1 or 2 layers of CQUK.

Also to further avoid marring the paint after i correct it again, how do you dry paint with a coating? as you cant really use spray waxes or quick detailers to help lubricate the finish? i'm pretty sure my drying towels were my issue since they always grabbed the paint instead of smooth sailing of drying :D

Any information is very much appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Gyeon Primer Polish is an abrasive polish which contains SiO2. Think of it as a polish similar to CarPro Essence without fillers. I've used both and they both correct well to remove minor to moderate defects. There is an excellent write up on detailed image covering both polishes in the ask a pro blog section.

Gyeon Primer Polish has a light cut that is capable of correcting defects. It is going to be dependent on paint hardness as well. The test spot will tell you if you need to get more aggressive.

Seeing as you are going to be using CQUK why not use Essence as they were designed to work together? One can do the same thing by letting it sit 24 hrs after wipe off for the SiO2 to cure.

To avoid marring well you will have some as there is always a risk whenever the painted surface is touched. Proper washing techniques is key. You could always implement using a car dryer of some sort like the McKee's 37 Turbo Car Dryer to remove a majority of the water from the surface. Good towels always help.
 
If you are going to apply cquk I would use carpro essence primer to do the finishing polish with. It's the gyeon primer but carpros instead. Then if you where to use a drying aid you have carpro Ech2o waterless wash that you can dilute to QD strength. And many like to ad 2-3oz of reload in a 32oz bottle with Ech2o QD dilution 1:20. Then it's a great waterless wash and rinseless wash. If you wash with 2bm I would buy carpro reset car soap which is one of the best car soaps out there IMO. I have the carpro mf mitt too which is a great one also. The carpro wool mitt is also great but need some extra care after washing. Then get you some good drying towels if you think that it's them that cousing the marring. A great thing to do as last thing when rinsing the car soap of is to dry rinse. Start with no spray gun attached to the hose and a low water pressure and start from the top of the car and follow the water sheeting to the bottom of the car. Then use your Ech2o QD mix and either carpro Boa drying towel or Griots Garage PFM drying towels to dry the car with.

If you can post a picture of the marring if possible. Maybe a medium polishing foam pad would be enough cutting with essence. That's depends on the car you have which is? Also which polisher you are going to use. It can be you have a hard clearcoat and you need some more cut from the polish or even compound.

Then read up on how you take care of your mf towels and wash mitts. 3D towel Kleen is a good wash media to use in the washing machine. It's the most important to work with clean detailing products.
 
If you want to avoid marring get griots garage PFM towel(best drying towels I have found nothing come close to this towel) all my waffle weave towels are eating dust now and i use them on glass and door jams... I have not seen any marring with PFM towel when used properly..and as others have stated use carpro essence since you are going to use CQUK..apply essence and wait one hour before applying CQUK and if used by hand then you have to wait 3 hours...i would use carpro eraser before CQUK to make sure nothing is left on the surface..dont worry it wont remove essence..
 
The Guz said:
Gyeon Primer Polish is an abrasive polish which contains SiO2. Think of it as a polish similar to CarPro Essence without fillers. I've used both and they both correct well to remove minor to moderate defects. There is an excellent write up on detailed image covering both polishes in the ask a pro blog section.

Gyeon Primer Polish has a light cut that is capable of correcting defects. It is going to be dependent on paint hardness as well. The test spot will tell you if you need to get more aggressive.

Seeing as you are going to be using CQUK why not use Essence as they were designed to work together? One can do the same thing by letting it sit 24 hrs after wipe off for the SiO2 to cure.

To avoid marring well you will have some as there is always a risk whenever the painted surface is touched. Proper washing techniques is key. You could always implement using a car dryer of some sort like the McKee's 37 Turbo Car Dryer to remove a majority of the water from the surface. Good towels always help.
Click to expand...


Hey,

Thanks for the website, lots of detailed info there!

I wanted to avoid carpro essence since i've seen reviews saying it can be finnicky, it can leave weird streaks and can dry on the paint while polishing making it hard to remove. but i can try and give it a shot.

Is it true that CQUK is more durable than Gyeon Mohs? i can't really find a clear answer on this but some websites say the thickness of cquk is 1 micron per layer and mohs is about 0.2 microns per layer.

Thank you for your time!

SWETM said:
If you are going to apply cquk I would use carpro essence primer to do the finishing polish with. It's the gyeon primer but carpros instead. Then if you where to use a drying aid you have carpro Ech2o waterless wash that you can dilute to QD strength. And many like to ad 2-3oz of reload in a 32oz bottle with Ech2o QD dilution 1:20. Then it's a great waterless wash and rinseless wash. If you wash with 2bm I would buy carpro reset car soap which is one of the best car soaps out there IMO. I have the carpro mf mitt too which is a great one also. The carpro wool mitt is also great but need some extra care after washing. Then get you some good drying towels if you think that it's them that cousing the marring. A great thing to do as last thing when rinsing the car soap of is to dry rinse. Start with no spray gun attached to the hose and a low water pressure and start from the top of the car and follow the water sheeting to the bottom of the car. Then use your Ech2o QD mix and either carpro Boa drying towel or Griots Garage PFM drying towels to dry the car with.

If you can post a picture of the marring if possible. Maybe a medium polishing foam pad would be enough cutting with essence. That's depends on the car you have which is? Also which polisher you are going to use. It can be you have a hard clearcoat and you need some more cut from the polish or even compound.

Then read up on how you take care of your mf towels and wash mitts. 3D towel Kleen is a good wash media to use in the washing machine. It's the most important to work with clean detailing products.
Click to expand...

Definitly going to buy ech2o and mix it up! thanks, i do have carpro reset & the boa towels already i do like them but improper washing made them a little rough so i had to bin them, im pretty sure my paint is on the soft side since i did clean up marring 1 year ago with a white hexlogic and sf3500 pretty easily (love hate relationship with black cars)
 
kodakdave said:
Hey,

Thanks for the website, lots of detailed info there!

I wanted to avoid carpro essence since i've seen reviews saying it can be finnicky, it can leave weird streaks and can dry on the paint while polishing making it hard to remove. but i can try and give it a shot.

Is it true that CQUK is more durable than Gyeon Mohs? i can't really find a clear answer on this but some websites say the thickness of cquk is 1 micron per layer and mohs is about 0.2 microns per layer.
Click to expand...

It is possible that CQUK is more durable than Mohs. A lot of it is going to be dependent on the environment the vehicle is exposed to.

I will say that Mohs is easier to apply than CQUK. I also would not worry too much about the thickness per application.

Essence has a slight learning curve but after a panel or two one gets the hang of it. If it b comes harder to remove from the surface just go over that area with a quick pass. It does not need a lot of passes for it to do its thing.

I have not tried CQUK over Gyeon Primer Polish so not sure if one would experience incompatibility at some level.
 
I think when it's getting finicky they polish with very high speeds. This comes from carpro UK site on how they recommend to polish with essence. And do a couple of test spots to see what pads to use. Spread the product on speed 1. Then increase the speed to 2-3 and work it in till it's gets clear. This is the polishing stage. After it clears up increase the speed to 4 and slow down the arm movement and work it for 2-3 minutes maybe 2 passes more. This is to induse heat to activate the resins in essence. Then wipe it off and move to the next section. To be on the safe side that the solvents has time to evaporate they recommend 3 hours after applyied essence before applying coating. And if you start where you are going to start the applying the coating you can time it from there.

If you want to test something new drying towels go with the GG PFM. The carpro Boa is a great drying towel too but can be fun with testing new things. You did right to bin it if it where rough to the touch. I would stay with reset since it's well lubricated and a great cleaning ability that makes it not to need much of aggitations to get a clean surface. With the carpro mf mitt I for the most only need to go over without any pressure 2 times to get it clean. Then before I always prewash with a prewash product in the foamcannon. To get it as clean as possible before touching the paint when washing. Something like Gyeon Foam or gtechnic w4 citrus foam and they are made for not degrade the coating. Then rinse it off and use the water pressure from the PW to clean with and I work my way from bottom up and then rinse down again so it's easier to see where you have PW the paint.

The mohs and cquk I think is on par with the longevity you getting from them. I would do 2 layers of cquk as it can be layered after 1 hour and after 1 hour there after a application of reload to help prevent water spotting during the full curing of cquk. Or maybe get carpro Gliss top coating to get a more slicker and aggressive water behavior. As many don't like the more rough feeling cquk has cause the high content of sio2 in it.
 
SWETM said:
I think when it's getting finicky they polish with very high speeds. This comes from carpro UK site on how they recommend to polish with essence. And do a couple of test spots to see what pads to use. Spread the product on speed 1. Then increase the speed to 2-3 and work it in till it's gets clear. This is the polishing stage. After it clears up increase the speed to 4 and slow down the arm movement and work it for 2-3 minutes maybe 2 passes more. This is to induse heat to activate the resins in essence. Then wipe it off and move to the next section. To be on the safe side that the solvents has time to evaporate they recommend 3 hours after applyied essence before applying coating. And if you start where you are going to start the applying the coating you can time it from there.

If you want to test something new drying towels go with the GG PFM. The carpro Boa is a great drying towel too but can be fun with testing new things. You did right to bin it if it where rough to the touch. I would stay with reset since it's well lubricated and a great cleaning ability that makes it not to need much of aggitations to get a clean surface. With the carpro mf mitt I for the most only need to go over without any pressure 2 times to get it clean. Then before I always prewash with a prewash product in the foamcannon. To get it as clean as possible before touching the paint when washing. Something like Gyeon Foam or gtechnic w4 citrus foam and they are made for not degrade the coating. Then rinse it off and use the water pressure from the PW to clean with and I work my way from bottom up and then rinse down again so it's easier to see where you have PW the paint.

The mohs and cquk I think is on par with the longevity you getting from them. I would do 2 layers of cquk as it can be layered after 1 hour and after 1 hour there after a application of reload to help prevent water spotting during the full curing of cquk. Or maybe get carpro Gliss top coating to get a more slicker and aggressive water behavior. As many don't like the more rough feeling cquk has cause the high content of sio2 in it.
Click to expand...


thanks for the information! i did not know that it was not necessary to eraser after using essence.

Also do you mean 2 coats of UK + reload or 1 coat of UK and 1 coat of Gliss + reload ? I'm not really looking forward to applying 2 coats of UK since it can be a little tricky at times :)! i've heard the gliss wipes off like butter too!
 
2 coats of cquk + Gliss then I think that reload is not necessary to Gliss needs some reload down the road. You don't get the double longevity of 2 coats but you can easly reach the 2 year mark with it than without it. Then the essence has sio2 in it that makes a longer longevity too. That is the big benefit with essence to not need to touch the before the coating is applyied. Have seen that carpro US claims only 1 hour after essence is applyied you can coating it. In the release of essence the recommendation was to let essence cure over night before applying the coating and I think still that is a good thing to do. Or wait at least 3 hours for it to be safe that the polishing oils to evaporate fully. If you were a pro detailer maybe you could take the chance but if you can wait. Think that the most primer polish has that it don't need to eraser wipe down. Only if needed to apply the coating directly after the essence the eraser wipe down is necessary.

If you have the time I would get carpro reflect and dial in the pad to use. Then get the carpro glosspad to use with essence to get you some insane gloss. See it as you can jewel polish the paint this way. From what I have heard the reflect and essence has the same abrasive in them. Just that essence has less of it. The abrasive technology in carpro is very fast cutting and often don't need more than 4-5 passes per section. You can use reflect with a mf cutting pad and get you a medium cut polish. And the little hazing you get the essence on gloss pad will clear that up to an awesome gloss and shine to seal in with the coating.

If you want to get a little more reflective finish you apply a base layer with cquk and then a layer with cquarts classic. To get the tio2 that is high reflective on top and the the added slickness it has over cquk. And if you want to get even more slickness and aggressive water behavior and self cleaning ability the Gliss over that. It's just what your budget allows you and what you use your car as.
 
Hey all,

So i've bought a bottle of essence and tried it out it works very nice! wipes off very easily too. i did a comparison with sf3500 and did not see a direct difference (both look very amazing in gloss). I did erase wipe them both and also did not see any difference in beading. so is there really any benefit of polishing with essence before coating?

also is this bottle expired?

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Thank you !
 
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