Gyeon Primer vs Polish

[Koogs]

Hi, longtime lurker first time caller.

I've been detailing my cars and family member's cars for a number of years now with moderate success and have just started to dive into coating my cars. Working on my 2nd time doing it, I did more research and picked a "nicer" coating (or coating system) in Gyeon Syncro, a month ago I did Carpro Cquartz on my wife's minivan. No complaints about that, but the Syncro system looks awesome after more research.

So I have my 2018 Subaru Forester XT that I'm planning on doing this on. It has about 5000 miles and has some minor swirls in the paint. Its a light-medium blue. I'm trying to figure out whether I need to use Polish, or if Primer will be sufficient?
Also, if I do use Polish, then Primer if I have to do a wipedown? I know technically you shouldn't have to, but is it possible to have missed a few spots/crevices with the Primer to the point it doesn't remove all the oil?

The Honda Odyssey I washed, IronX, Nanoskin Claymitt, Meguires Ultimate Polish, Carpro Eraser, then CQuartz. It came out great, but wanted to try the Gyeon system this time with the Primer, but didn't want to have to do double work with the Polish if it wasn't needed.

thanks

 

[TTQ B4U]

Their PRIMER product is good but isn't meant to be a replacement for a full polish as it's correction abilities are more limited. It will certainly remove haze from compounding but based on my experience, it's not best to attempt any major swirl correction with it as there are better products for that. That said, your car is new and minor imperfections like that will likely polish out with it. Yes, you would need to do a wipe-down after PRIMER if you do not wait the 24hrs for the oils to dissipate. I never have time to wait like that so I do a wipe down all the time.

I would agree and you will see Syncro is a far better coating solution that Cquartz. It's better than CQ with Gliss on it too. I have used both many times over including my vehicles and customer vehicles. With CarPro I do use Essence and give it an edge over primer in two areas. One is filler and gloss. It acts as a glaze to help fill in microscopic imperfections which are present even after the finest polish as imperfections still do exist, it's just they are fine enough that they aren't noticeable. Well, that's where Essence is a champ and the reason it's known for superior shine. It also acts as an SiO2 base-coat to lock that filler in. Lastly, the second area I really like essence is in the wipe-off stage. Removal is a bit easier than PRIMER.

Sorry to go OT a bit, but I had to share my full thoughts.

 

[The Guz]

Hi, longtime lurker first time caller.

I've been detailing my cars and family member's cars for a number of years now with moderate success and have just started to dive into coating my cars. Working on my 2nd time doing it, I did more research and picked a "nicer" coating (or coating system) in Gyeon Syncro, a month ago I did Carpro Cquartz on my wife's minivan. No complaints about that, but the Syncro system looks awesome after more research.

So I have my 2018 Subaru Forester XT that I'm planning on doing this on. It has about 5000 miles and has some minor swirls in the paint. Its a light-medium blue. I'm trying to figure out whether I need to use Polish, or if Primer will be sufficient?
Also, if I do use Polish, then Primer if I have to do a wipedown? I know technically you shouldn't have to, but is it possible to have missed a few spots/crevices with the Primer to the point it doesn't remove all the oil?

The Honda Odyssey I washed, IronX, Nanoskin Claymitt, Meguires Ultimate Polish, Carpro Eraser, then CQuartz. It came out great, but wanted to try the Gyeon system this time with the Primer, but didn't want to have to do double work with the Polish if it wasn't needed.

thanks

Welcome to AGO.

Both polishes are on the mild side. I don't have the bottles in front of me but I believe the cut rating is a 4 for the polish and 3 for the primer polish. If you are looking to remove light to moderate defects then the polish would work. For lighter defects the primer polish would work.

I would recommend a prep wipe with either polish. Even if Primer has sat the recommended 24 hours I would still do one to remove any residual oils still left on the surface. For primer polish if you can not wait the 24 hours then a minimum 1 hour would be ok.

From using the primer polish it is more of a finishing step rather than a one step polish. As mentioned to remove compounding haze this would be fine. I've use it with a Reupes yellow polishing pad, CarPro Gloss pad even a Rupes green pad. Just lacks the cut compared to Essence.

I would have to disagree with Gyeon Primer being harder to use than Essence. I find them to be about the same with Essence being a little more on the finicky side if not finished down all the way. One thing I did notice is that Primer tends to dust a little.

Gyeon Polish is also more for finishing from using. Other polishes like Sonax EX 04-06 has more cut. Gyeon Polish does leave a nice finish.

Syncro is nice and easy to work with. I have begun to notice that it has started to show sighs of failure on a couple areas after 8 months. The entire car was prepped with Gyeon Primer with a prep wipe after 24 hours. I have also noticed that the self cleaning effect has faded in performance. Still has nice water behavior.

I will mention that side by side Cquartz is better compared to Mohs as a stand alone.

Skin and Gliss as they are completely different in their chemical make up so not easily comparable. Gyeon Booster would be more comparable to Gliss. Also Gliss V2 will be out soon.

I have had CQUK 3.0 and Gliss V1 and after a month going on two the self cleaning effect is great.

 

[Koogs]

Thanks for the replies. I did end up ordering the Gyeon polish and will see how that does on the car. I honestly haven't done enough real polishing work on my cars to have a great gauge on what level of product i need.
I have Meguires compound, Chemical guys V32-V38 small sizes, Meguires Ultimate Polish and now the Geyon Polish and Primer.

In the past on my cars I've done clay a bit of polishing with the Meguires Polish (sometimes) followed up by Meguires NXT or Ultimate wax, or Chemical Guys Jet Seal. Its always came out good, but I normally "did my best" and gave up at some point. Using the DA is somewhat new, I've had it for about 2-3 years but those 2-3 years I haven't had lots of free time with the kids and house and everything to really perfect things.

The whole coating thing makes me want to take the paint clean up to a higher level. So I'm going to start with the Gyeon Polish and I'm hoping/assuming I'm going to get the paint to where I want it, then move on to the primer.

 

[Koogs]

So I'm here to report back. I tried both the Primer and Polish. I decided originally I'd polish with my white pads then go back and use primer with finishing pads. Overall, the whole detail was taking some time over multiple days, and I didn't have alot of it. So to save time, after polishing the rest of the car, I did the roof with just the Primer. It did OK but was having some wipe off issues where it was difficult to get the product off the car, overall not bad, but was surprised.

Then did the hood in Primer this was after polishing it. I had some real significant problems getting the hood cleaned up with the primer. It didn't just wipe off at all. I had to use significant pressure and many wipes to get it off. It was hardened on there almost. Not sure if I worked it too much, or what. After I got the hood back to nice, I stopped. The car looked great honestly after the polish. I was going to do the Primer really for the SI02 layer and to see if there was any benefit to additional finer polishing.

Now I need to do the wipe down and apply the 1st then 2nd layer of Mohs. I probably will do that after the kids go to bed tonight. (I only have a car to borrow for the next few days)

I also need to clean some of the black plastic as I got some polish on it. apparently I got sloppy polishing the bottom part of the car and got polish on there despite taping.

 

[TTQ B4U]

Lastly, the second area I really like essence is in the wipe-off stage. Removal is a bit easier than PRIMER.

So I'm here to report back. I tried both the Primer and Polish. I decided originally I'd polish with my white pads then go back and use primer with finishing pads. Overall, the whole detail was taking some time over multiple days, and I didn't have alot of it. So to save time, after polishing the rest of the car, I did the roof with just the Primer. It did OK but was having some wipe off issues where it was difficult to get the product off the car, overall not bad, but was surprised.

Did you do entire panels at a time? I think the key with PRIMER is to polish and remove the hazed-over product section by section.

 

[Koogs]

I did the roof in 4 sections and had minor issues. the hood I did in 2 sections, probably should have done it in 3 or 4 like I did the regular polish, and had more than minor issues. From what you're saying it sounds like I over extended a bit and should have broken up to more sections, but that it is a bit more of a pain.

 

[Jeff at Gyeon]

I did the roof in 4 sections and had minor issues. the hood I did in 2 sections, probably should have done it in 3 or 4 like I did the regular polish, and had more than minor issues. From what you're saying it sounds like I over extended a bit and should have broken up to more sections, but that it is a bit more of a pain.

Good morning! Sounds like Primer was worked a bit too long and with a bit too much pressure? Subaru paint is historically finicky in terms of its temperature tolerance. I have done this many times. If the polish is overworked and too much temperature is created then the paint will grab on to the polish. The easiest way to remove it is to polish the area again with the same polish but very lightly with a very quick arm motion. It will then wipe up easily. PRIMER is water based. So 3 drops or so and work a shoulder width area at a time. Working the Hood in only 2 sections definitely contributed to the PRIMEr drying our early and the surface becoming hot. So smaller areas, less pressure, a touch less working time (3-4 passes) and you're in good shape. The biggest culprit here in my opinion is the Subaru paint.