Has anyone removed dried tree sap severals weeks after without visible signs of damage to clear coat?

deacno

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I had some tree sap fall on my car last week and attempted to clean if off this morning. I won't be able to finish the job which means it won't be until next weekend until I'll be able to get it off. The car has opti-coat on it which provides some protection against things like bird droppings, tree sap, etc. I was wondering if a couple weeks would be sufficient enough time for it to cause damage into the clear coat?
 
Not sure about how it will effect your opti-coat, but my GF hardly ever cleans her car, and gets tree sap on it all the time. I use goof off from a big box store, and it cleans up nice even after months of being on there. It does need a good wash to get the goof off residue off the car though.
 
If it's fresh sap I don't think it will etch.Dried on sap sometimes will require a little dab of 2000 grit.
 
I tried using 91% rubbing alcohol and it came right off. I was wondering if there is any sort of harmful chemical reaction that happens with coatings as is the case with bird droppings (meaning it's best to get it off as quick as you can before it does permanent damage).
 
Yep, IPA works well with sap. I use a couple drops on a microfiber. Dab a few times and have a wet towel handy to immediately wipe off the alcohol. Repeat until Sap is gone. This will remove LSP, so you'll likely need to re-apply (not sure about coatings). I've never had trouble with my 70% or 90%, but it never sits on the surface to dwell. Nor do I do a large area. It's just my solution for little spots here or there.
 
I dont know/think that tree sap will etch the paint like bird droppings, bugs, and acid rain will. It's just a pain to get off. I've used Stoners Tarminator for sap and it has worked well.
 
I dont know/think that tree sap will etch the paint like bird droppings, bugs, and acid rain will. It's just a pain to get off. I've used Stoners Tarminator for sap and it has worked well.
Sap that sits on clear for a period of time will stain clearcoat.nibbing the stain with 2000 and a little compound your good to go.
 
I use Rapid Remover it works well against anything that is sticky.

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Hey buddy,

I had a similar situation but mine wasn't coated. I had to seek Mike@autogeek's insight.

I had driven to work and parked under a tree which squirted all sticky sorts over my car several times. Although I washed it, it still left remnants I.e when I did the baggie test I could feel the bumps.

Tried claying, both Meguiars and Bilt Hamber (Aggressive) didn't shift much.

Then resorted to using paint thinner AKA white spirit to wipe the car down. I'd say it loosened and removed 50-60% of the bonded tree sap.

I then took my flex 3401 with a medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and went over the entire car. I'd say 70% of it was removed.

The nail in the coffin was a hybrid lake country orange pad with Menzerna 400 which made it smooth as glass.

But then again mine was a little extreme.

Here's a before and after pic

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Mike@Autogeeks patented baggie test

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Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad on Flex 3401

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Claying the boot AKA Mechanical Decontamination

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Finished after using Menzerna 400 and IPA wipe down

8ba5bddfebf68daea4d948a4f4aa938a.jpg





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Hey buddy,

I had a similar situation but mine wasn't coated. I had to seek Mike@autogeek's insight.

I had driven to work and parked under a tree which squirted all sticky sorts over my car several times. Although I washed it, it still left remnants I.e when I did the baggie test I could feel the bumps.

Tried claying, both Meguiars and Bilt Hamber (Aggressive) didn't shift much.

Then resorted to using paint thinner AKA white spirit to wipe the car down. I'd say it loosened and removed 50-60% of the bonded tree sap.

I then took my flex 3401 with a medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and went over the entire car. I'd say 70% of it was removed.

The nail in the coffin was a hybrid lake country orange pad with Menzerna 400

But you never tried washing it off with IPA. Why not ?
 
That polishing looks great. I've had very good luck with Duragloss bug remover for all kids of stuff stuck to the paint. Sometimes takes multiple treatments, and helps to let it sit. So far, there's nothing it hasn't gotten off. I'm sure other good tar/bug/sap removers work equally well. The DG is what I happen to have.
 
Ok, I would suggest either following some simple guidelines A) knock it down to 15-20 percent if covering a large area or B) use at full strength only to remove individual pieces of sap. Or do some research/talk to someone who knows more than me, to clearly understand any issues that might come with using on paint at full strength.

I remember discussions from awhile back about issues from using at full strength. But I don't recall what they were. If no one else can clarify, check with Mike Phillips.
 
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