Hawaii Sun: Baked Water Spots...Help.

Sal

Sal

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First of all let me start by saying I am a novice to auto detailing, however, I am eager to learn.

Here is my question or dilemma: I am in the process of selling my 2001 Honda Civic but I would like to give it an ultimate shine before I let it go. Two reasons: 1. Gives me quality detailing time. 2. Higher resell value.

My problem lies with in the baked in water spots. I live in Hawaii, therefore the sun here is a different animal. I have removed them before with an acid based water spot remover but I do not believe that is the best choice being that it's acid based.

I would have to say the car is not in great shape. It has clearly visible swirl marks, light scratches all over, and those horrible water spots.

So what would be the best compound, polish, and pad combination to cure this car? And if I have to use the acid based water spot remover, I will. Then I would follow it with a polish.

Any advise would be highly appreciated....thanks in advanced.

Sal
 
Your best bet would probably be something like M105 with a cut pad like orange LCC or burgundy megs pad, then M205 with a white LCC pad or yellow Megs pad. If you are looking for "showcar" and your car is a dark color you could finish it up with Menz 85rd with a blue LCC or tan Megs pad. Wax it with your fav wax or sealant, I like maxwax personally, its cheap and performs WONDERFUL. IMO clean the rims really well, I feel that if you detail the rims of a vehicle it will stand out that much more. Also put a sealant on your rims, you can use a OTC sealant and that will make cleaning them between showing the car alot easier. Detail the interior upholstery as best you can, use an all purpose cleaner mixed with water such as Megs APC+. Get teh dirt out of the little spots, that sets you apart. And if you really want to add a touch detail the engine. Be careful!!! but I find if you use a light, repeat light, mist of water and some APC and then rinse light water as well then dress with a dressing (I use water based as to not attract dust), cover up alternator, battery, and air intake while your are doing this, (do these by hand) and you shouldnt have any problems. And most importantly enjoy the process and have fun with it!!!
Peace
Jon
 
Thanks Jon. I'm looking into that M105 right now. It seems to be exactly what I need.
 
First off - welcome to Autogeek.

Secondly - being a novice, I wouldn't recommend M105 if you are only planning on doing this car.

Are you working by hand or fo you have a machine polisher of some sort?

Either way, you can achieve some fantastic results with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, and it is quite a bit easier to work than the M105. Then you can follow that up with Swirl-X. This would also be a much cheaper combination, especially if you don't plan on using the M105/M205 a whole lot.

Best of luck with it.

DLB
 
I'll be working with a pc. And honestly I am going to give detailing a real good effort and become a student of it. I want to open my own shop in 10 years.
 
Last edited:
Sal said:
So what would be the best compound, polish, and pad combination to cure this car? And if I have to use the acid based water spot remover, I will. Then I would follow it with a polish.

Any advise would be highly appreciated....thanks in advanced.

Sal
Click to expand...

If you're working by hand then Ultimate Compound.

Only work a small section at at time, small section = about 16" to 20" squarish or so.

Spread the product out and then work it over the paint thoroughly. After your applicator pad breaks in, (that means gets wet with product), you'll find the product spreads easier and works better.

Use about a teaspoon to a tablespoon of product. After you spread it out it over the area you're going to work you should see an opaque or whitish film on the surface. Now work this film till the film turns clear and oily and then wipe it off and inspect.

If the paint looks good enough that you're happy, then move on to a new section and overlap a little into the previous section for UMR

UMR = Uniform Material Removal

If the section looks better but you're not happy, then repeat the process.

Removing defects by hand can be done but it's no fun and takes a lot of time.

See the below threads for some tips on working by hand.


Man versus Machine
1-Step versus 3-Step Process by Hand
What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats


Bonus Articles
The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints
Finger Marks



After the Ultimate Compound you'll at a minimum want to apply a wax or paint sealant.


:)
 
Feed back pleaseOk so I tried the 105 and it works great. I used a pc with an orange pad for this. Now, my question is; should I follow the 105 with 205 or can I just follow it with 85rd. I'm looking for optimal results.
 
If you want "optimal" results you should follow the 105 with 205 and then follow that with 85rd. You might be able to call it a day after the 205. I personally would not jump straight to the 85rd from using a heavy compound and a cut pad.
 
Sal said:
Feed back pleaseOk so I tried the 105 and it works great. I used a pc with an orange pad for this. Now, my question is; should I follow the 105 with 205 or can I just follow it with 85rd. I'm looking for optimal results.
Click to expand...


Quick question...

Is the car going to be exposed to the same environment in which it obtained the water spots again?

For example a forum member's car was parked next to a lawn sprinkler that waters the lawn on a regular basis, they wanted to remove the water spots out of the paint. I asked them if the car would continue to be parked next to the sprinkler and they said, "Yes".

The point being is the spot will simply re-occur until they can find a better place to park the car.


:)
 
No, I moved all my cars away from those sprinklers. I figured, to day any kind of major detailing would be pointless unless I parked away from the sprinklers. I have told my neighbors to do the same or have the sprinklers face a different direction.
 
JonnyBob said:
If you want "optimal" results you should follow the 105 with 205 and then follow that with 85rd. You might be able to call it a day after the 205. I personally would not jump straight to the 85rd from using a heavy compound and a cut pad.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jonny. Ok, so I have SSR2.5 here at home, can I can use that instead of 205? I have no problem buying 205; just curious.
 
Sal said:
Thanks Jonny. OK, so I have SSR2.5 here at home, can I can use that instead of 205? I have no problem buying 205; just curious.
Click to expand...
I would personal use 205 since you use 105 .The megs line was made to work with each other.I know plenty of people will have an opinion on this but if you read the posts concerning 105/205 you will see that is the prefect combo.
 
The ssr 2.5 has a little more cut than the 205....
Check out this chart
Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart

I have never used the ssr2.5 before so I dont know first hand but I personally feel like you can mix and match different products. I dont think you necessarily have to stick with just megs, or just one line of product for that matter, the only think that i question is about the level of cut of ssr compared to 205. It might not make a difference if your using the 85rd after but I cant answer that question, maybe someone else will chime in on that one.
 
Thanks for the chart Jonny!
 
I live on the North Shore and have to deal with the salt spray & the sun.I used Menzerna Power Finish w/ a LC orange pad on my PC and had excellent results. The abrasives break down the longer you work it into the paint. It finishes really smooth and glossy.
 
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