Hazing with Collinite wax.

PouncingPanzer

Active member
May 11, 2017
984
134
I see there are many old threads on such things here, and elsewhere. Mostly about No. 845. About 48 hours after applying wax your entire car is covered in an oily haze. I discovered on my own that the best way to remove is detailing spray and elbow grease. But, I just polished and waxed the entire car...I want a few days break darn it.... But walking out of work and seeing the haze in direct sunlight was a punch in the gut. I wouldn't be able to stop thinking about it after getting home. So, I wiped the entire car down again two days in a row. I am mentally prepared to deal with it again tomorrow based on what I've read. I hope the "sweating" stops soon. I suppose this is one negative side effect of jumping off the silica bandwagon, haha. May jump right back on again... That Jescar Ultra Lock Plus is looking pretty good(and forgiving) right now. I suspect that since I used the machine instead of hand applicator this time I used too much. That's my assumption anyways. Last time I used 915(or any other wax of theirs) I applied by hand and never had issues with "sweating".

Saturday morning I hope to wash the car with Touchless and Reset. Aggressive for a waxed car, I know, but I want that sweating to stop. If removing the No. 915 or harming it must happen in the process. Oh well.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
The sweating is almost a sure sign it was applied too heavy.

I always applied it with a machine, but actually found it helped me apply it a lot more evenly and thinner. By hand I always got it too thick. Even with a machine, I'd still mess it up in a few areas.

I don't remember ever having the entire vehicle haze up, but in the summer it wasn't uncommon for me to be chasing the hazy patches for a couple weeks. A quick, light, QD wipe of the area or a hand wash normally removed the hazing.

845 is the only wax/sealant I've ever used that would sweat. To be honest I jumped from it straight to coatings many years ago and never looked back. I have used an SiO2 sealant a couple times in special circumstances and liked it, though not enough for me to leave coatings.

I used 845 for a several years and the bottle is still in my cabinet. It's kind of like a childhood ex-girlfriend. You see it and recall some good memories, but then you also remember why they are your ex and not the person you ended up marrying.
 
Your going to Touchless as in Touchless car wash?


Sounds like you applied too thick. You could wash the car using only water to remove the haze. I also wouldn't apply an topped for at least a couple of months
 
Your going to Touchless as in Touchless car wash?


Sounds like you applied too thick. You could wash the car using only water to remove the haze. I also wouldn't apply an topped for at least a couple of months
Bilt Hamber Touchless*

Yea I plan to let it do it's thing for awhile before topping.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
The sweating is almost a sure sign it was applied too heavy.

I always applied it with a machine, but actually found it helped me apply it a lot more evenly and thinner. By hand I always got it too thick. Even with a machine, I'd still mess it up in a few areas.

I don't remember ever having the entire vehicle haze up, but in the summer it wasn't uncommon for me to be chasing the hazy patches for a couple weeks. A quick, light, QD wipe of the area or a hand wash normally removed the hazing.

845 is the only wax/sealant I've ever used that would sweat. To be honest I jumped from it straight to coatings many years ago and never looked back. I have used an SiO2 sealant a couple times in special circumstances and liked it, though not enough for me to leave coatings.

I used 845 for a several years and the bottle is still in my cabinet. It's kind of like a childhood ex-girlfriend. You see it and recall some good memories, but then you also remember why they are your ex and not the person you ended up marrying.
It was hot out and wax was much softer than usual, contributing to the heavy application.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
Agreed about applying it too heavily.

But another huge factor in applying 845 successfully is letting it completely dry to a haze.

I'm not sure where some of the myths about 845 started, but I remember one being something like: "It is very hard to remove if left on too long."

That is true with 476s paste, but not at all true of 845. I will actually apply it (super thin) to my entire truck, wait up to an hour, and then remove it.


Funny story about that...... On I think my second time using 845, I got up early in the morning and did a "marathon detail". Wash, clay, polish, trim, wheels, tires, and wax. (I don't do that anymore.... Lol)

But I was running out of daylight as I was removing the 845, and completely missed my entire tailgate.

When I noticed it the next morning, I was horrified! After reading all of the [mis]information about 845, I was sure I'd need nothing short of a jackhammer to get this stuff off.

Armed with many towels and some QD, I went out prepared for a fight. Long story short..... It took ONE towel and about ONE minute to remove it. I was happily shocked. :)
 
It's unbelievable how little of 845 is needed to wax an entire vehicle.

Next time I'll put the 845 bottle on a scale, before & after and provide that information.
 
Your going to Touchless as in Touchless car wash?


Sounds like you applied too thick. You could wash the car using only water to remove the haze. I also wouldn't apply an topped for at least a couple of months

*Any topper

**I hate the fire tablet
 
I thought many ppl would actually heat it up to liquefy it before using.
This was 915 in the blue can. It us usually a hard paste wax that doesn't transfer much unless you press hard. At around 87° in the garage the wax was quite soft.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
This was 915 in the blue can. It us usually a hard paste wax that doesn't transfer much unless you press hard. At around 87° in the garage the wax was quite soft.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

Ahhhhh...... I think I misunderstood your OP.

The 915 and 476 application process is the exact same thing.

DON'T get it soft. DON'T press hard to transfer.

If you "caked" some 915 on pad, you might just be able to coat half of the Space Shuttle. Lol.

Using a machine to apply any Collinite "canned" products is a chore. Get a butter knife and LIGHTLY coat the outer ring of the pad, and put a TINY dab in the center.

You are now ready to wax an entire hood of a car. Maybe even the adjacent fenders. ;)
 
This was 915 in the blue can. It us usually a hard paste wax that doesn't transfer much unless you press hard. At around 87° in the garage the wax was quite soft.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
I thought you were talking about 845. I haven't used 915.
 
More spotty hazing this morning. I know the last two days I've been using ONR and edgeless towels to buff it off, but what do you guys think of trying Eraser? I feel it would be perfect for such a thing considering it's intended purpose.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
More spotty hazing this morning. I know the last two days I've been using ONR and edgeless towels to buff it off, but what do you guys think of trying Eraser? I feel it would be perfect for such a thing considering it's intended purpose.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

A QD spray will work way better. Eraser is a strong cleaner designed to strip away any polishing oils on the surface in order to leave a perfectly clean surface for the coating to bond. In this case, you're not trying to totally remove the 845 in that area, just buff off the excess that is softening and hazing in the heat. I also think a reputable QD spray will have better lubrication than Eraser and help prevent any marring.

When I had your problem I'd simply get a MF towel really damp with a QD and lightly buff them out. Easy and done...
 
A QD spray will work way better. Eraser is a strong cleaner designed to strip away any polishing oils on the surface in order to leave a perfectly clean surface for the coating to bond. In this case, you're not trying to totally remove the 845 in that area, just buff off the excess that is softening and hazing in the heat. I also think a reputable QD spray will have better lubrication than Eraser and help prevent any marring.

When I had your problem I'd simply get a MF towel really damp with a QD and lightly buff them out. Easy and done...

I have been using ONR at Clay Lube dilution the past two days. Seems to work well enough. Today was less hazing and more spotty here and there. So the situation is improving!
 
I've always wondered, does 845 do this with any application or only when applied on top of another product? I haven't tried it before and that was mostly due to it seemed like everyone who used it was using with another product. I just didn't want the extra work lol.
 
I had it when applied to naked paint. The problem seems to be when applied too thick and then is exposed to high heat or very hot surface temperatures. I applied it to a black car and when temps approached 90F, the hazy spots would start to show.
 
I had it when applied to naked paint. The problem seems to be when applied too thick and then is exposed to high heat or very hot surface temperatures. I applied it to a black car and when temps approached 90F, the hazy spots would start to show.
Yes the spots are not visible in the AM after sitting in garage but after sitting in parking lot at work in the sun all morning and afternoon. Much less spotting today walking out. The hood, by the fuel filler door, a streak on the roof. Much less today. Getting better by the day. I'll give her another full wipedown today regardless. I have been doing the entire car since I'm sure I didn't see all the hazing.

This was their No. 915 not the 845. 915 on top of 476. Same application process for both. Layered them last year no issues. But that was in September when it was in the 70s, not Monday when it was nearly 90° inside the garage and humidity was high. In addition I applied with machine for the first time this most recent. I think it goes without saying that there are few if any products in the world more susceptible to environmental conditions than Collinite waxes. At least in my experience. If only I had a climate controlled garage....one day. *and another bay, with a lift. Lol*

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top