Hazy gloss black interior trim

Taylorvert

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I have gloss black interior trim around the master window panel on the door and every other door on my car. I cleaned the surfaces and was left with a cloudy look once it dried. I have tried multiple difference polishes, applicators, cleaners. I’m to the point I’m considering painting or replacing it. The car is relatively new 26,000 miles. If I wet the trim it goes back to the glossy black look but once it dries it is cloudy/hazy again. Thanks in advance for any input you have.
 
Thank you! So first I cleaned with CG interior cleaner which is when it got hazy after I tried ONR to get rid of the haze. Then I started reading forums and the autogeek FB group. I tried Meguiars scratchx, plastx, and ultimate polish. All Polished I tried on a foam applicator, MF (long pile), MF applicator. When I wet my finger and wipe the area it’ll go back to the smooth glossy look but as it dries the area goes back to cloudy/hazy. Also when uploading a photo it says jpg photo file error.
 
Also when uploading a photo it says jpg photo file error.


Can you "attach" a photo?


Most people when they try to upload a photo to the free photo gallery here on the forum they make one of two mistakes.

First - They don't resize their picture to a smaller size and you can't upload HUMONGOUS photos to the gallery. Most devices, even phones take HUGE picture files. I POST THOUSANDS of pictures each month but I always resize my picture to 800 pixels wide.

Second - they have a space in the file name. That will work on a device but it won't work on the Internet.



This works,

My_picture.jpg




This does not work

My picture.jpg



:)
 
When I wet my finger and wipe the area it’ll go back to the smooth glossy look but as it dries the area goes back to cloudy/hazy.


Sounds like the surface is either stained or marred.

Avoid fiber product, stick with foam.

If it were here in front of me, I would try a foam applicator pad and an AIO like one of these,

3D Speed
BLACKFIRE One Step
Pinnacle Jeweling Wax


:)
 
ahhhh figured it out. so that is a photo of the trim with a wet mark on it to show that it goes away when wet. but as it dries it looks like the surrounding area. would ultimate polish be equal to those you listed?
 
ahhhh figured it out. so that is a photo of the trim with a wet mark on it to show that it goes away when wet. but as it dries it looks like the surrounding area.

Wow!

It looks like the surface had REALLY been dulled down.



would ultimate polish be equal to those you listed?

Yes, it should work the same way.

Typically, a cleaner/wax will be safer for delicate surfaces compared to a dedicated polish but UP is very safe.

I would try applying and working ONLY with a foam pad.

At this point, you might want to find an experienced, seasoned professional detailer and ask them to take a look at it.


If you live near to Stuart, Florida - bring it on by - I'll be glad to take a look and see what it will take to fix it IF it can be fixed.


What kind of car?

Also - can you get a LARGER picture?



:)
 
It’s a 2016 Ford Fusion titanium. At this point I was just thinking about scuffing, priming and painting the trim. I found the new trim pieces online for $20 so I could always go back to the OEM style if need be.

This process would apply the same to the plastic chrome trim on the exterior? Use a really fine polish or even just wax to clean them up and make them shine?

Thank you for the replies!
 
Sorry about the lack of photo skills. I could resize it and try sending it again.
 
It’s a 2016 Ford Fusion titanium. At this point I was just thinking about scuffing, priming and painting the trim. I found the new trim pieces online for $20 so I could always go back to the OEM style if need be.

Might be the way to go if a simple polish won't restore gloss and shine. If it won't - I'd say that's a finicky surface material or coating.


This process would apply the same to the plastic chrome trim on the exterior? Use a really fine polish or even just wax to clean them up and make them shine?

Thank you for the replies!


The exterior chrome on the outside is PVD or Physical Vapor Deposition. I'm not an expert on this but I think Forrest from Mothers is. :)

I recommend this product from Mothers. Every detailer should have a bottle in their arsenal.


Mothers California Gold All-Chrome Cleaner


Here's some info on this type of chrome...


Progress in Replacing Decorative Electroplating Chrome Coatings on Plastics with Physical Vapor Deposition Coatings : Products Finishing

Custom Decorative and Functional PVD Coatings and Finishings

PVD Coating Systems



:)
 
Tough call.
I take it that the picture you've shown in particular, is a grab hold on the side door with an integrated door latch, correct?

If so, these areas which I'll assume are basically some type of plastic will be the toughest of all to do any fixes with say a sealant, or an acrylic resto-maintainence product such as Scratch-X, or something like Novus Polishes designed for Plastics.

Some types of such might leave greasy residues behind, might be fine for an area on the dash, but not going to work for such grab hold areas.

Removing, prepping and painting might be a better fix, but again how long will such last in high wear areas where you're grabbing such every time one exits the vehicle?

A "very" small chance might be asking the dealer about such? Probably all they'll tell you though is they can order new parts and/or install them, probably not an option you'll want to entertain. (Or pay for. $$$)
 
Only other idea that pops into my mind, and it would be for areas that aren't commonly touched.

You'll have insane gloss and shine, in fact it might be too much! Easy, relatively cheap versus a wipe on Ceramic Coating such as CQuartz DLX. (DLX would probably work)

That product, dare I say it...… is Future Floor Wax.

If the parts can be removed, that would be a plus so not to get such a product on anything else. Apply one coat, let dry, apply another. Future maintenance would be nil, simply wipe with a dampened MF Towel is all, or a Detailer Spray to remove dusts, fingerprints-etc.

I was once forced to do the Future Floor Wax option as the only way to bring shine back to my then relatively new 1990 Dodge-Cummins 4x4 Pickup Truck.

When new, I applied Armor-All to the Dash and Door Panels. The doors weren't a problem, but the dash was simply Painted. And all the Paint began to flake off!

An absolute disaster where under warrantee the dealer wanted to yank the entire dash out to repair or replace it, and I said no damn way are you going to do that to a vehicle with about 5,000 miles on the Odo! I walked, and then slept on what my other options might be?

So, I went to a Paint Supply Shop, had a few Aerosol Cans custom mixed with the correct color code paint, and also bought clear for a top overcoat.

But the problem was, this paint was Lacquer! The prep-cleaning and paint application came out flawless once I stripped most of the Dash and Masked just about everything.

But the paint was as dull as Primer. Future Floor Wax to the rescue as a solution. I applied 3 coats total with a small piece of Sponge, waiting for each coat to fully dry before any additional applications.

The dash looked so good, almost too good, the gloss was insane, perfect, blinding in fact in certain light conditions, got lots of compliments after about how great it looked, and what did I put on it?!

Of course a good Paint Prep product-degreaser should be used prior to applying such a product to get even and proper bonding to the parts.
 
That era of early 90's Dodge Trucks were essentially junk! They put a killer turbo diesel Motor in a crap truck. Basically not much in the way of aftermarket parts like spring kits, add ons, etc.

To get a 3" lift all the way around, I wound up in a Semi Truck Shop, where they made new Springs custom,, re-arched, what a pistol. The Rancho Shocks I put on all the way around were so stiff and difficult, the mechanic need a 4' long crowbar to drop them! I kid you not!

Banks aftermarket mandrel bent 4" exhaust I installed one afternoon, just aluminum, it was starting to rot out after one Midwest winter from the salts.

A 727 Torqeflight Tranny that after 9,000 miles was leaking like I shot it with a .44 magnum. No cruise control which I paid for, and finally came 13 months later which I installed ($235), what a pistol running flat ribbon cable up through the steering column and hook to a new Column Indicator Stalk, Brake Stop LightSwitch, Cables to tranny, all new Bracketry for the Throttle Assembly on top the engine, all new Throttle return springs, with the stock springs you needed a brick taped to your shoe to keep the gas peddle down.

That after 2 hours of driving your right foot was killing you.

Sloppy Rag Joint on the Steering Column under hood that after 10K, I had 2-1/2" of play either way on the steering wheel, I replaced that with a "Borgeson"? roller needle bearing, no adjustable steering box link to front end, replaced that,

Dodge was reminiscent of the old AMC to me, really garbage they were making then.
 
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