headlight polishing + wool pad?

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NiSyam

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hi guys,

is there a possibility of damaging a headlight when polishing with a rotary+wool pad?

i always use my pc to polish when im done wetsanding but there is always a little bit of scratches left so i was just wondering that if i polish it with my makita would be better to remove the scratches but im afraid of damaging the plactic

thanks
 
Just like paint there is a possibility you could burn it, but you'd have to be extremely careless to do so IMO. Been restoring headlights via rotary since 05, haven't had a single issue.
 
Alright thanks! Would i be able to remove the remaining scratches or there is always going to be some left?

Sent from my SGH-T589R using Tapatalk 2
 
I also use a rotary on 3400 RPM. I have had no issues with burning. Keep the unit in constant movement and don't hold it on one spot. I always allow the plastic to cool if I need to go over it again. I do not use a wool pad, I use the softest cotton airway buff that I can find. This allows for the buff to stay cool thru the process. Work with the grain of the headlight and it will come out great. There is an example of what I use on my website, click the link below.
 
The one thing you need to be careful of of the plastic heating up and warping. IMO 3400 RPM is way too high. Start slow and if you need more speed bump it up until the results are achieved.
 
Hey guys!

Thanks for the tips! I just finished a set and they came out great! I was using speed 3.

Thanks again!

Sent from my SGH-T589R using Tapatalk 2
 
Kevin Cullen said:
I also use a rotary on 3400 RPM. I have had no issues with burning. Keep the unit in constant movement and don't hold it on one spot. I always allow the plastic to cool if I need to go over it again. I do not use a wool pad, I use the softest cotton airway buff that I can find. This allows for the buff to stay cool thru the process. Work with the grain of the headlight and it will come out great. There is an example of what I use on my website, click the link below.
Click to expand...

3400 rpm on a loose cotton buff sounds reasonable to me. Quite safe for lexan and plastics.
Kevin, most on this forum have no clue as to the tools that you are using.

rider9195 said:
The one thing you need to be careful of of the plastic heating up and warping. IMO 3400 RPM is way too high. Start slow and if you need more speed bump it up until the results are achieved.
Click to expand...

Not talking about foam pads or wool pads here. But, in the interest of least aggressive first, then I must concur with rider9195, if using any variable speed rotary that is not a Two- Speed like yours.
 
Never had a problem either knock on wood... I found that on some Ford truck headlights where there are those super annoying little tabs that stick out, a Purple foam wool works really well because it won't tear up. Good luck trying to get the whole light with a foamed pad on those.

I usually use 3m perfect compound then polish at around 1500-1800. Its more of a feel than anything. Just dont' be stupid and stay on one spot for a long time and you'll be fine. Rotary is the only way to go
 
They use wool pads at my work with stero glaze to clean headlights and it works really good I have also used Meg's 105 and it has worked wonders.
 
We use fine grade steel wool often to clear up local areas and edges on headlights. It's roughly equivalent to 1000 grit sandpaper. Saves time by not requiring changing disks on the R/A. Just make sure you thoroughally clean with alsohol before applying your protective finish.
ray6
 
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