Headlights UV coat
- Thread starter rbos
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I sand and polish then seal. I need to find out if this is a good UV seal ? they say it will hold up for 2yr.
I have, just yesterday. It has good reviews on Amazon. It is self leveling. Needs UV light to cure. I'm so new with it so not sure about my longevity. I have a pic of a light I pulled from a junk yard and restore, then sealed it with it. I'm busy with homework (College) right now but I'll try and post a photo bucket pic in a day or sooner.
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- #5
The UV light cuts dry time in half . SafeTclear sales one on a tripod for $99.
Yeah, I saw that. Actually been email them back and forth today asking them questions. I think that is a pretty decent price since it save you time (No moving a handheld spot light around for 6-12 minutes not being able to do anything else in the time.
This is my third light, the defects are hard to photograph, but I really like the coating so far. I definitely went too heavy on the coating (I did one coat, and then a second right on top of it w/o waiting for it to dry completely. So is that 1 REALLY LONG coat, or two?)
This was the light I grabbed from the junkyard. Mazda something.
This is my third light, the defects are hard to photograph, but I really like the coating so far. I definitely went too heavy on the coating (I did one coat, and then a second right on top of it w/o waiting for it to dry completely. So is that 1 REALLY LONG coat, or two?)
This was the light I grabbed from the junkyard. Mazda something.
DeansDetailing
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- Jan 31, 2015
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Seems like Opti-Lens is easier and if properly applied lasts a decent time.
DeansDetailing
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- Jan 31, 2015
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There is no warranty. Like most things in detailing it will vary greatly due to environmental conditions, preparation, and method used. I just started using it a few months ago.
I tell people while I use a very high quality sealant, it's not a perfect science. If they fade within 2yrs I'll do them again for free. Even if they come back that's not a bad thing because they probably need another full detail by then. Most of my headlight jobs are added onto a detail.
I have always been very diligent after polishing. I clean the headlights with glass cleaner then do a couple Eraser or ISP 10% wipe downs.
I then apply a thin coat with a folded up blue shop towel going side to side and up and down. I allow to dry/flash for appx 5min#then apply another thin coat.
The majority of headlights I do only require a quick polish. Most sets take under 30min total. Taping the surrounding areas usually takes longer then polishing.
Being mobile I want the most convenient product that can be done in the field with a good degree of protection.
It would be nice if the other coating companies released lens specific sealants for some competition.
I tell people while I use a very high quality sealant, it's not a perfect science. If they fade within 2yrs I'll do them again for free. Even if they come back that's not a bad thing because they probably need another full detail by then. Most of my headlight jobs are added onto a detail.
I have always been very diligent after polishing. I clean the headlights with glass cleaner then do a couple Eraser or ISP 10% wipe downs.
I then apply a thin coat with a folded up blue shop towel going side to side and up and down. I allow to dry/flash for appx 5min#then apply another thin coat.
The majority of headlights I do only require a quick polish. Most sets take under 30min total. Taping the surrounding areas usually takes longer then polishing.
Being mobile I want the most convenient product that can be done in the field with a good degree of protection.
It would be nice if the other coating companies released lens specific sealants for some competition.
DeansDetailing, how long does it take to dry? Is it like a paint like the 4Everclear or a wipe on/wipe off substance? Man is it pricey though...
Rbos:
-cleaned it with glass cleaner
-Had to get out a single deep scratch by hand with 320 grit
-3M 500 discs on drill (dry)
-3M 800 discs on drill (dry)
-3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound on wool pad
-3M Trizact 3000 grit
-3M scratch remover
-Glass Cleaner, then dry it with towels
-4Everclear.
Rbos:
-cleaned it with glass cleaner
-Had to get out a single deep scratch by hand with 320 grit
-3M 500 discs on drill (dry)
-3M 800 discs on drill (dry)
-3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound on wool pad
-3M Trizact 3000 grit
-3M scratch remover
-Glass Cleaner, then dry it with towels
-4Everclear.
Mantilgh
New member
- Dec 6, 2014
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- 1
I believe Opti-Lens is very similar to paint coatings in application, but I haven't used a paint coating though.
Wipe on, wait a minute of two for it to flash, check for unflashed spots and wipe if needed.
I think you could coat 10 lights with a 10cc, maybe 20 if use an small applicator that doesn't absorb much and if your good at not wasting it trying to dispense it from the syringe.
Wipe on, wait a minute of two for it to flash, check for unflashed spots and wipe if needed.
I think you could coat 10 lights with a 10cc, maybe 20 if use an small applicator that doesn't absorb much and if your good at not wasting it trying to dispense it from the syringe.
SameGuy
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- Jul 1, 2011
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A few unnecessary steps, IMO.
The starting grit depends on the severity of the original coating's breakdown. I'd only do 320 dry; beyond should be damp. Also, consider switching from a drill to a DA (either a cheap full-sized one with a 3" backing plate, or the GG 3-inch DA).
Why would you compound between sanding steps? Also, jumping from 800 to 3000 is extreme, with or without the useless compounding step. Once you get to 2000 or 3000, you should wipe with an IPA solution, never window cleaner, then go straight to your coating product. One generous coat should be sufficient.
AnthonyGXP
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- Nov 16, 2014
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What would coating the OUTSIDE have to do with cloudiness on the INSIDE?
- Thread starter
- #15
Deans Detailing: I know seals brake down over time I have great luck with CG's Jet Seal. Ever Brite cost under $30 dollars they say with proper care it can hold up for 2yr. Read VincenzaV Quote about wipe on and let dry 20 to 40 min. What is the cost of Opti seal. And who makes it?
Hi Sameguy-
Thank you for your post/response.
The P500/800 3M discs said to run them dry in the instructions. I would have rather done them wet, but 3M was explicit for this type of paper to run it dry. That did cause me to eat up pads. I don't know if 3M is trying to get you to burn through pads so they sell more, or if the paper they provided was not water rated.
I guess I can try it wet next time with one pad to see how it holds up.
I agree 100% on the DA, I just don't have one YET but will get one as soon as funds allow (within the month). So I had to use the drill unfortunately.
I did the SD compound because it says "removes 1000 grit scratches and finer". Is this not correct?
What is the IPA ratio/water you use? Or straight? Is it "regular" rubbing alcohol or some kind at a Home Depot type store?
I do agree it was a long process. I want to cut that down, but this headlight was from the junkyard. It had a deep scratch, paint on it, and was pretty yellowed.
What would you recommend based of the picture of the unrestored side? How would you approach it exactly? Thank you for you help! I am on here to learn how to be more efficient at this.
Thank you for your post/response.
The P500/800 3M discs said to run them dry in the instructions. I would have rather done them wet, but 3M was explicit for this type of paper to run it dry. That did cause me to eat up pads. I don't know if 3M is trying to get you to burn through pads so they sell more, or if the paper they provided was not water rated.
I guess I can try it wet next time with one pad to see how it holds up.
I agree 100% on the DA, I just don't have one YET but will get one as soon as funds allow (within the month). So I had to use the drill unfortunately.
I did the SD compound because it says "removes 1000 grit scratches and finer". Is this not correct?
What is the IPA ratio/water you use? Or straight? Is it "regular" rubbing alcohol or some kind at a Home Depot type store?
I do agree it was a long process. I want to cut that down, but this headlight was from the junkyard. It had a deep scratch, paint on it, and was pretty yellowed.
What would you recommend based of the picture of the unrestored side? How would you approach it exactly? Thank you for you help! I am on here to learn how to be more efficient at this.
SameGuy
New member
- Jul 1, 2011
- 1,927
- 0
I tend to buy the 3" sanding discs when there's a sale here like today. I use Meguiars Unigrit 320, 500, 800 and 1500, and either Trizact or Unigrit 3000 (they perform comparably on headlamp lenses, but the Meg's discs are usually less than half the price). I also have some amazing 2000 grit discs from somewhere else. The key is you need a bit of tooth in the substrate for the coating to adhere, so no polishing of the lens after stopping at 2000 or 3000.
IPA can be used straight but that's wasteful. I dilute it to 25% for this purpose. I buy it whenever I'm at the dollar store, it's rubbing alcohol. You can also get 99.7% IPA from MG Chem at industrial supply or electronics hobbyist stores. Whatever you use, keep the bottle of straight IPA on hand when you coat; if you mess up, a quick wipe and you can make another attempt in a few seconds.
IPA can be used straight but that's wasteful. I dilute it to 25% for this purpose. I buy it whenever I'm at the dollar store, it's rubbing alcohol. You can also get 99.7% IPA from MG Chem at industrial supply or electronics hobbyist stores. Whatever you use, keep the bottle of straight IPA on hand when you coat; if you mess up, a quick wipe and you can make another attempt in a few seconds.
Thanks Sameguy!
I haven't heard of Dlux. I'll check that out too. Good longevity, was it on a car that is parked outside or inside? For example, in NE, the sun isn't so bad so the yellowed headlights aren't too common where I'm originally from.
***EDIT*** I just read on the DLUX. It didn't say specifically it was for headlights (Just the footer key word search words on the bottom). Maybe they should put that in the details.
Spewking, did you touch them up at all in the two years? Is the car a daily driver? Thanks.
I haven't heard of Dlux. I'll check that out too. Good longevity, was it on a car that is parked outside or inside? For example, in NE, the sun isn't so bad so the yellowed headlights aren't too common where I'm originally from.
***EDIT*** I just read on the DLUX. It didn't say specifically it was for headlights (Just the footer key word search words on the bottom). Maybe they should put that in the details.
Spewking, did you touch them up at all in the two years? Is the car a daily driver? Thanks.