Help! Horrendous scratches or clear coat failure?

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canairb

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Take a look at this paint on a 98 Buick Park Avenue...

I tried hitting it with my Griot's 6" orbital, M105, and surbuff pad. No luck.

I tried using my rotary with a wool pad and M105, again, no luck.

I'm afraid to try wet sanding if this is clear coat failure and really don't think it's worth the effort since it appears all over the car. It is not just an isolated area.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


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A few more pics...

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Looks to me like you've got a little of both. Some of those go in the direction of the scratch n' swirl car wash brushes, but the trunk lid looks a bit like it's failing.

You should have gotten some improvment with the methods you used, but both Surbuf and wool would leave something to be desired in the finish. Have you successfully restored other finishes with those methods? (that's a polite way for me to ask if you actually have any experience machine polishing)
 
This is just a hobby of mine, but I have had excellent results removing defects with surbuff pads and m105 using the Kevin Brown method. Then following up with milder pads and m205.

I don't normally like using a rotary, but my griot's orbital wasn't touching these defects.

I understand that aggressive methods of defect removal does not leave a final finish, and requires additional passes with less aggressive material. In this case, I can't seem to remove the defects to start with.
 
Here is an example of what I have corrected in the past. Again, no expert, but I was satisfied with the results.

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The scratches on the Buick are so many and deep, that I think it is beyond my skill level.

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That is clearcoat failure, the paint is doing what is called checking and crazing. I am getting ready to repair a tahoe that has similiar issues, the only option is repainting.
 
Thanks, I never heard of checking or crazing before. I had to google it. That very well could be the problem.
 
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