Help - How to safely remove yellow overspray paint

D

Dan Rolfe

New member
May 7, 2019
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Help - How to safely remove yellow overspray paint



I thought I would ask everyone's opinion on how to fix a problem I just ran into.

A little over a month and a half ago I put a new "used" bumper on my race car. I did all the body work in my garage and then painted it to match the rest of the car in a single stage yellow paint. Because it was just the bumper I painted it just outside my garage in the back of my house. Everything turned out exactly as I expected and life has been good until yesterday.

My neighbor came over and wanted me to show me something. You guessed it, he showed me what I thought was pollen on his newer car and truck. What I thought was a bit of pollen turned out to be overspray from yellow bumper.

The overspray went over my house, around the corner, missing my trailer and my vehicles only to land on his. Now honestly, I had to really look but I could definitely see some of the yellow specs on a couple of the panels of his car and truck and some accumulated on his window.

He is a car washing machine and had not washed it since I painted a month and half ago, or at least that's what he said.

So my question is what product would you suggest to use to remove the flecks?

I am going to start with clay, I thought that would be the easiest and least aggressive. I am just worried that the overspray has been on for a while, it's not "fresh".

What product or steps would you suggest?

I want to do what's right and not be the neighbor from heck but I also don't want to take it to "his" shop which said it would be around $1500.

I am sick to my stomach because I try to be as careful as I can be and definitely don't want to ruin another's car.

Thanks in advance.


Dan
 
Here's the second video or videos I made when I first came to Autogeek back in June of 2010


I think to this date they are the only claying videos that explain not just how to use detailing clay but also HOW detailing clay works and of course, why to use it.






The reason there are 2 videos is because back in 2010 YouTube HAD time restrictions for video length. My how times have changed.


And by the way, these are just two videos in the link that Kirby shared above.


:)
 
Re: Help

Thomkirby said:
Search but first read all these links from Mike Phillips post


The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop by Mike Phillips



Plus try these out carefully yourself:

Goof Off or Goo Gone
Lacquer Thinner

Then if required a polish afterwards might be wise. Lots of articles in the forum and tons more online.

All you can do is take it easy and slowly see how it works!

Good Luck,

Kirby
Click to expand...


Thank you Kirby for taking the time to look up the article with multiple related articles and then share them with our new forum members.

That's very nice of you and I for one appreciate it.



:dblthumb2:
 
Re: Help

Here's AJ from Overhaulin AND from Competition Ready, showing you how to use detailing clay.


Re: The Baggie Test as seen on Competition Ready TV with AJ and Mike Phillips
How to clay your car


For Kyle Tucker's 1970 Chevelle "The Villain" - we used Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System.



Step 1: Kneed the Mothers clay bar into a patty about the size of a pancake.

Step 2: Spray some Mothers Instant Detailer onto a section of paint.

Step 3: Rub the clay patty back and forth using straight line motions over the section of paint.

Step 4: After you feel the clay patty begin to glide effortlessly over the paint stop claying and use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off the residue.




Mother's clay bars come in a protective plastic wrap to keep them clean until ready to use. Before using the clay bar remove it from the plastic wrapper.

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Next using your thumbs and fingers, knead the clay bar into a patty about the size of a pancake.

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Spray a section of paint using the Mothers Instant Detailer. Use enough product to make the surface wet so the clay patty will glide over the paint.

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Then placing your had flat against the patty of clay, rub the clay patty in a back and forth motion over a section of paint.

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Normally you'll feel the clay patty drag a little as it is removing contamination. As the contaminants are removed the clay will begin to glide effortlessly. This is a sign the contaminants on this section of paint have been successfully removed.

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Next step...

After claying a section, use the Mothers microfiber towel to remove the residues and then move onto a new section. Repeat this till all the contaminated panels are clean and smooth.


After claying, it's a good idea to lightly machine polish the area IF you have an orbital polisher. Do not use a rotary for this step as it will leave holograms in the paint.


If you do not have an orbital polisher then hand apply a coat of wax.


If you need more help feel free to give me a call.

1-800-869-3011 x206



:)​
 
Dan Rolfe said:
I want to do what's right and not be the neighbor from heck but I also don't want to take it to "his" shop which said it would be around $1500.
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To charge $1,500.00 to clay a car or a portion of a car is outrageous.


My rule for detailing customer's cars is if I'm going to clay the paint then I'm already PLANNING on and CHARGING to do at least one machine polishing step because in my opinion and experience, claying, even when done correctly and safely can and will mar paint.

The word "mar" is the kind fluffy word for scratch or fine or shallow scratches.


Even so - $1,500.00 to clay and polish a car at a body shop is not only very high my guess is they would not do the kind of work a pro detailer that hangs out on Autogeek would do including yours truly.


Body shops don't normally have products that seal paint in their shop because they can cause fish eyes when spraying fresh paint. Assuming this body shop does NOT have waxes, sealants or coatings in their shop, IF they did clay and then machine polish your neighbor's car they would not be "finishing" the job by sealing the paint.

And also from experience, LOTS OF EXPERINECE - most body shops ONLY own a rotary buffer and this means after claying your neighbor's car they would then make things MUCH WORSE and fill the paint with holograms scratches from using a rotary buffer.

Lose/Lose for you and your neighbor.


Body shops are simply not known for doing GREAT buffing and/or detailing work.



:)
 
Thank you all both for all the information.

This forum is really informative. I feel better because Mike I've looked up and read/watched just about every video you have made about clay. I had even seen people mention the Goof Off but I don't know if I am brave enough. My car no problem but because it's not mine I might skip.

I have both a rotary and orbital but once again since it's not my stuff I don't feel comfortable, I am a high school math teacher and play with paint/race cars as a hobby. I just wanted to get online and make sure that clay is the best option.

His body shop said that clay would not work, the overspray has been on there too long and because we have had a mild spring in Virginia clay would not work.

Of course this is the same place that quoted him (not me might I add) $1500.

My plan was to clay all along after watching your videos and reading all the articles I could two nights ago.


Dan
 
Dan Rolfe said:
His body shop said that clay would not work, the overspray has been on there too long and because we have had a mild spring in Virginia clay would not work.
Click to expand...


Red Flag Goes Up


Here's the deal, while "yes" time can be a factor because as paint dries it hardens and the bond between the overspray and the car paint can become stronger (maybe), in most cases time is not an issue.

Rubbing detailing clay over a smooth painted surface abrades the overspray paint off the paint and then traps it onto the clay surface.

For more difficult overspray you might have to rub the clay over the paint using more passes.


Here's the next deal....

You don't know what you can do until you try


So for the painter to make a blanket statement as though it is fact is just not real-world. I've removed tons of overspray and most of the time I don't know if it happened yesterday or 10 years ago. So I do the normal steps.


Step 1: Wash and dry the car to remove loose dirt.
You don't want to rub clay over loose dirt or road grime.


Step 2: Knead the clay bar until you form what looks like a clay pancake.


Step 3: Spray down some clay lube or a spray detailer to lubricate the surface as you rub the clay over it.
Most clay "kits" come with clay, a spray lube and a microfiber towel.


Step 4: Wipe off the clay lube residue and inspect the paint with your sense of touch.
You should be able to feel a difference between an area you have clayed and an area you have not clayed. If you can visibly see the overspray paint on the original car paint then if everything goes right - you now won't see the overspray paint.



Continue this over all the affected areas or over the entire car. Afterwards - apply a car wax or a synthetic paint sealant to seal and protect the paint.

If you need to do the entire car, start early on a Saturday morning and you should be able to knock it out in 4-6 hours.



:)
 
Might there be a forum member who'd be willing to help out a math teacher?

I'll bet someone here would either help, or at least oversee your effort if there's one in your area. Where in Texas are you?

Good luck!
 
I am actually in Virginia. Truthfully I am really not worried about the process I just wanted the advice of the steps I should take which you all have spelled out here for me. All of my car stuff is done as a hobby and I have no problems painting, building, etc my own stuff just makes it a little nerve wracking when you are working on someone else's stuff who you just happen to have to live next. It's like the time my brother asked me to build his Datsun 240z race motor. At the time I had never messed with Datsun stuff, but a race motor is a race motor. He takes the car to drivers school and in the middle of the first session he comes in on the hook, oil spewing out the bottom. I was sick to my stomach, I just grenaded his new motor. Turns out he changed the oil after break in and HE did not tighten the drain plug, so after a couple laps it vibrated loose oops. He was able to catch it quick enough and did not hurt the motor, it did make me feel better that it was his mistake not mine haha.
 
Stop by local body shop and check if they can give you --- believe it's paint reducer.

Had yellow paint on my MGA from the center line street paint. My friend at the body shop told to use this (paint reducer) ---works great. Will take a bit of elbow grease but it should work.

Tom
 
Thank you to everyone for all the great advice and all the videos.

I was able to get home after school yesterday and was able to talk the reluctant neighbor into letting me clay the vehicle. The only thing I did that was a little different was I used synthetic clay rather than start with detailing clay.

When I looked at the vehicle I could barely see the overspray, I am not even sure I would classify it as overspray. We started with the tailgate and I did one panel at a time. I explained to him as I was doing it and you could actually "feel" the clay slide easier with each pass.

I went slow and was able to finish the truck, had to stop because of daylight, and will go back and either let him or I will throw on a coat of wax by hand, he is hesitant with any machines haha.

I made him do the before and after feel and even let him use the synthetic clay so he could feel it was working. The reason I used the synthetic is I was having to do it in his drive and it's not asphalt and I was terrified and sure I would drop the clay haha.

So we will go back today and let him inspect the truck and get his seal of approval in the sunlight, no yellow before waxing.

I might even call a local detailer to come detail the vehicles, I really do feel bad, as a good faith gesture.

Thanks again for all the insight and help, what a great resource.


It took about an hour and half to do truck without waxing.


:)
 
Thank you for the update and sounds like it's working out good. :xyxthumbs:



Dan Rolfe said:
We started with the tailgate and I did one panel at a time. I explained to him as I was doing it and you could actually "feel" the clay slide easier with each pass.

I made him do the before and after feel and even let him use the synthetic clay so he could feel it was working.
Click to expand...


I have an article on the above bold part of your post. This article dates back to September 22nd, 2004 - only 15 years ago as I type today in the year 2019


Each one, teach one... Ferrari Fiorano 355 F1 Spider


It's always rewarding to help bring someone else further up the road.


:)
 
Goof Off Professional Strength Remover works wonders on dried road paint. Worth a shot before you start trying to mechanically remove it.
 
DBAILEY said:
Goof Off Professional Strength Remover works wonders on dried road paint. Worth a shot before you start trying to mechanically remove it.
Click to expand...


Thanks for sharing.


I have also had good luck with XENIT - IF you apply to a cloth and hold against the offending overspray paint so it can DWELL and do it's magic.


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A million ways to skin a cat. (no offence PETA, just a saying)



:)
 
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