Help! I have new clearcoat, what should I use?

adrynalinjunkie

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I am finally painting my chevelle next week.
I will be putting plenty of Quality House of Kolor UC 35 clear on.

Anyway I have a pc7424 da
I also have a gray handle dynabrade da.
I have been thinking of dry sanding the clear flat with meguairs 1500 grit sanding discs then damp sanding with meguairs unigrit 3000 discs. But from there what do you guys recomend?
I need help deciding what pads to then use on the pc 7424, and what product to use after the damp sanding with the unigrit 3000 discs.

Should I then jump to a swirl remover? Or do I need a compounding product first? What can I use after the swirl remover since this clear will still only be a week or two old?
 
For new paint either color or clear I'd wait 30 days to ensure it's completely dry.

Wetsanding - Dampsanding - Colorsanding Topics

By Mile Phillips :props:

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If it has paint... it gets polished...

How long will a half sheet of wet/dry sandpaper last before it stops cutting and you need to replace it?
 
I agree with waiting 30 days to wax.
But I have wet sanded and compounded / polished fresh clear a few days after it was shot many times.

As a matter a fact most body shop guys insist on wet sanding and buffing new clear within the first 2 weeks before it gets too hard.
 
I agree with waiting 30 days to wax.
But I have wet sanded and compounded / polished fresh clear a few days after it was shot many times.

As a matter a fact most body shop guys insist on wet sanding and buffing new clear within the first 2 weeks before it gets too hard.

Yes, you're correct but I was assuming that you were taking it through all the steps including seal & wax.

Sanding can be done at any time regardless of the paints age as long it's thoroughly dry. A clear coat only gets so hard so whether 30 days or 5 years make little difference to wet / dry paper and water.

I just wet sanded the nose on a 13 year old clear coat less than a week ago and it sanded quite easily. Since yours is a repaint I suspect the paint will be somewhat softer and will cut a little easier than a factory finish so keep your eye on your progress.

Your most aggressive product and pad combination will remove the major sanding marks. From there, work your way up finer and less aggressive removing finer and finer scratches and defects until the finish is glass smooth and shinny.

Take a look at the product, pad, and aggressiveness chart below and plan accordingly...

MenzernaChart3.jpg
 
Thats a great chart thanks for posting it.

I will post some pictures of this chevelle soon.

I have been block sanding this thing for over 2 years now it is laser straight!
 
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