Help! I made a bit of a mess with a Bigfoot

Paint hardness is the variable. Wool might work for some and in some cases it may be too aggressive. Your test spot will always let you know.

So don’t give up on wool. Foam is good for finishing but not always cutting.

^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^

I don't think you said what wool pad you used but the Rupes yellow wool pad is pretty awesome and versatile
 
I’ve been using the Rupes coarse blue wool often for polishing home theater subwoofers with a lacquer finish. It can really remove the defects and finishes pretty well though I do a 3 step with Rupes blue coarse wool and Buff Shine Uro-Tec blue coarse foam followed by Uro-Tec dark blue medium polishing pad finished off with a Buff Shine white polishing pad.

I’m sure the Rupes yellow wool pad is a good medium polishing pad with nice finish down but would likely need some extra polishing with a softer foam pad to get “perfect”.
 
I’ve been using the Rupes coarse blue wool often for polishing home theater subwoofers with a lacquer finish. It can really remove the defects and finishes pretty well though I do a 3 step with Rupes blue coarse wool and Buff Shine Uro-Tec blue coarse foam followed by Uro-Tec dark blue medium polishing pad finished off with a Buff Shine white polishing pad.

I’m sure the Rupes yellow wool pad is a good medium polishing pad with nice finish down but would likely need some extra polishing with a softer foam pad to get “perfect”.

I’m sure you are 100% correct

I wasn’t implying the OP’s first attempt would have worked out with a Rupes yellow wool pad

I was simply seconding the advice not to count out wool as an option for paint correction with a DA

I thought for years that wool was never an option, I was trapped in the wool with a rotary equals a nightmare thought pattern


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I’m sure you are 100% correct

I wasn’t implying the OP’s first attempt would have worked out with a Rupes yellow wool pad

I was simply seconding the advice not to count out wool as an option for paint correction with a DA

I thought for years that wool was never an option, I was trapped in the wool with a rotary equals a nightmare thought pattern

I wasn’t even thinking I was counteracting your advice. I agree that wool is a valuable tool in the arsenal. I am surprised how well the Rupes coarse blue wool removes defects and still finishes out pretty nicely. I haven’t used the yellow wool either but I’d think it would do the same on more moderate defects. But likely would still need a second pass with a softer foam pad but that is a guess on my part.
 
I wasn’t even thinking I was counteracting your advice. I agree that wool is a valuable tool in the arsenal. I am surprised how well the Rupes coarse blue wool removes defects and still finishes out pretty nicely. I haven’t used the yellow wool either but I’d think it would do the same on more moderate defects. But likely would still need a second pass with a softer foam pad but that is a guess on my part.

No, you are correct

I think anything you paired it with that had any correction vs polishing capabilities would need a follow up


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Paint hardness is the variable. Wool might work for some and in some cases it may be too aggressive. Your test spot will always let you know.

So don’t give up on wool. Foam is good for finishing but not always cutting.

I am with Michael on this. After talking with Jason Rose at Mobile Tech Expo in early 2020 I tried the Rupes yellow wool and DA Fine compound. I was amazed at how quickly it corrected swirls, and because it stayed cool I could work a larger area + do less passes (e.g. the whole door in 2-3 passes [4-6 the way Mike P. counts] vs. 1/2 the door and 4 passes [8 Mike P.]). For clarity, this was a 'production' type detail, on burgandy Infiniti paint.
 
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