HELP! My First Kit - Confused

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payj

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Hey There!

I am overwhelmed with all the options on getting a good first detail kit put together. This is what I have in my cart. I'm really F'ing confused on the polishes, what the heck to use for what?! I was going to go with chemical guys Why? No reason, named sounded cool and their description was easier to understand. That said I am still lost on what to use haha. I am sure I dont need all of this.

Please help me understand the polishes and what to use. Umm one thing I like to do is apply wax by hand. So my finishing touch will be that. everything else I am lost.

My car:

2001 Acura cl in silver. I dont know if its ever had a solid detail. Ive clayed and waxed it, that's about it. I want to do the whole 9 yards and would rather drop 6-800 on equipment than 250-300 for a complete detail. Most importantly I want to learn to do it.


Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax 30 ml Sample [remove]

$29.99




Chemical Guys Classic Paste Wax 8 oz. [remove]

$86.99




Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher FREE BONUS! [remove]
Choose a model: HD(+50)


$409.99




Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay PLUS Special [remove]

$39.99




Lake Country 6.5 FLAT Pads 6 Pack - Your Choice! [remove]
Pad 1: Orange
Pad 2: Crimson
Expand options


$49.99




Hydro-Tech 6.5 Inch Cyan Advanced Cutting Foam Pad [remove]

$11.99




Lake Country Coating Applicator 2 Pack [remove]

$7.99




Wolfgang Microfiber Cleaner and Rejuvenator [remove]

$17.99




Microfiber Towel Combo [remove]

$49.99




Dodo Juice Basics of Bling Detailing Spray 500 ml. [remove]

$12.99




Chemical Guys Paint Correction 1 No. 778 Super Polish 16oz. [remove]

$22.99




Chemical Guys Nano Pro Polish 3n 16 oz. [remove]

$22.99




Chemical Guys V38 Optical Grade Cut Final Polish 16 oz. [remove]

$28.99




Chemical Guys Liquid Leather Cleaner & Conditioner 16 oz. [remove]

$17.99




Chemical Guys New Car Scent [remove]

$6.99




Nanoskin Autoscrub System Start Up Kit – 6 inch [remove]
 
Good luck. Lots of options. I would recommend reading a lot more forums and narrow down your choices to specific needs...if that makes sense. And by the way CG has top quality products. I use them myself. Although u will find other products are great also. I didn't help did I. Lol. Check out the "forum favorite" kit to get your feet wet. One more thought, u can't go wrong with the Dewalt polisher.
Griots sells a great package kit to get started also. Check them out

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AG Online
 
I'm guessing you have soaps, a mitt, grit guards, APC, tire dressing etc. already?

If so I would go to Menzerna polishes you should be able to do fg400 and sf4000. Not quite sure why you have the LC coating applicator in there either. I would scratch the regular clay and the nano pad, and get the nanoskin mitt myself. Dodo red mist detailer instead of the one you got. Wax collinite 845 is an expensive but good one or if you want to step up go to midnight sun, souveran etc..
 
payj said:
Hey There!

I am overwhelmed with all the options on getting a good first detail kit put together. This is what I have in my cart. I'm really F'ing confused on the polishes, what the heck to use for what?! I was going to go with chemical guys Why? No reason, named sounded cool and their description was easier to understand. That said I am still lost on what to use haha. I am sure I dont need all of this.

Please help me understand the polishes and what to use. Umm one thing I like to do is apply wax by hand. So my finishing touch will be that. everything else I am lost.

My car:

2001 Acura cl in silver. I dont know if its ever had a solid detail. Ive clayed and waxed it, that's about it. I want to do the whole 9 yards and would rather drop 6-800 on equipment than 250-300 for a complete detail. Most importantly I want to learn to do it.


Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax 30 ml Sample [remove]

$29.99




Chemical Guys Classic Paste Wax 8 oz. [remove]

$86.99




Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher FREE BONUS! [remove]
Choose a model: HD(+50)


$409.99




Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay PLUS Special [remove]

$39.99




Lake Country 6.5 FLAT Pads 6 Pack - Your Choice! [remove]
Pad 1: Orange
Pad 2: Crimson
Expand options


$49.99




Hydro-Tech 6.5 Inch Cyan Advanced Cutting Foam Pad [remove]

$11.99




Lake Country Coating Applicator 2 Pack [remove]

$7.99




Wolfgang Microfiber Cleaner and Rejuvenator [remove]

$17.99




Microfiber Towel Combo [remove]

$49.99




Dodo Juice Basics of Bling Detailing Spray 500 ml. [remove]

$12.99




Chemical Guys Paint Correction 1 No. 778 Super Polish 16oz. [remove]

$22.99




Chemical Guys Nano Pro Polish 3n 16 oz. [remove]

$22.99




Chemical Guys V38 Optical Grade Cut Final Polish 16 oz. [remove]

$28.99




Chemical Guys Liquid Leather Cleaner & Conditioner 16 oz. [remove]

$17.99




Chemical Guys New Car Scent [remove]

$6.99




Nanoskin Autoscrub System Start Up Kit – 6 inch [remove]
Click to expand...

IMO here's what I would narrow it down to

Wax: collinite 845
Polish: m105 & m205
Pads: 5.5 inch lc flat in Orange black and the softest one ( I forget the color at the moment)
Polisher: FLEX YES

Then I'd add CG blacklight (you will want to eat it. It smells sooooo good!), waffle weave towels, various mf towels, Wolfgang pad cleaner, megs apc, megs hyper dressing, nanoskin fine sponge, and what ever else u may need or want.




Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
I will suggest the following but feel free to contact AGO and ask someone there to help you put something together:

Polisher: pick your poison
Pads: Pick up 2 Yellow, 2 Orange, 2 White, 1 Black and 1 Blue or Red
Decontaminate: IronX & Nitrile Gloves
Polish: Menzerna IS1500
Polish: Menzerna SF4000
Applicator Pads: CCS Red Applicator Pads (2-4)
Oil & Polish Remover: Carpro Eraser
Wax: Collinite 845

Here are some details behind my logic:

1. Make sure you perform test spot(s) to confirm Acura CL paint is soft. I figure with a 2001 you WILL have oxidation on that vehicle so the yellow pads & IS1500 will likely be needed
2. I like M105/M205 but prefer Menzerna. Anytime M105/M205 do not produce the results I am looking for Menzerna IS1500 cleans it up. I never need to go beyond Menzerna, ever
3. SF4000 will finish down nicely with silver and it can be used as an AIO in future details

Basic process behind my product choices (tailor as you see fit):

1. Wash with soap you generally use to remove most dirt; rinse off but do not dry
2. Spray on IronX and work in using the CCS Red hand applicator pads (one panel at a time); rinse well with water before product has a chance to dry.
3. Clay (doesn't matter when you last did it.... do it again)
4. Remove Oxidation --> polish with IS1500/Orange. If you do not have very smoothe paint after a session on one panel then move up to IS1500/yellow
5. Finishing Polish --> polish with SF4000/White
6. Remove oil & polish residue --> with CarPro Eraser. With silver paint you can skip the Eraser to save $$$ and simply do a light wash/dry
7. Wax vehicle --> with 845 and a CCS pad
 
Becoming completely overwhelmed is a rite of passage when learning how to correctly detail your car....While the sky's the limit, there's no need to spend $1000.00 or more on the basics.

I like to recommend Porter Cables 7424XP polisher. I have both the first and second generation. My first generation is 15 years old and still performs like new. Is there anything wrong with the Flex 3401? No, not at all and in fact I have one on the shelf but they are more costly.


If you're just starting out I would suggest a Porter Cable 7424xp Kit sold here....:props:

Basic steps in order are:


  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax

Lets dive into the products!


Sealant vs Wax

Sealants are man made or a "synthetic wax", Sealants actually cross-link and bond to the finish. Sealants have come a long way over the past 10 years or so and will actually rival some of the finest waxes and far exceed waxes durability.

Wax is a more natural product typically containing various grades of carnauba. Rather than bond, waxes sit on top of the finish. Waxes typically give the finish a warmer glow and a deeper wet shine.

If used together, sealants should be applied to a freshly polished finish, allowed to cure, and wax as the final step.

1-Step or Full Correction

All-in-ones or 1-step products do a nice job at removing oxidation, grime, and minor surface defects. The latest products do a damn nice job and leave some protection behind.

Compounding and Polishing are the purest way of turning an ordinary finish to a glass-like shine. There is really no comparison between the two but your goal and satisfaction will dictate your approach..

Coatings

Several manufactures are now offering urethane coating that are literally permanent. Once the finish is properly prepared, these new coatings add a layer of protection that's actually more durable than the clear coat.

While these coatings might be harder they are much thinner than a factory applied clear so don't confuse the two but they are very good and easy to apply. [FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
If you'd like some product suggestions that perform, take a look at these. I will guarantee they will not disappoint...


Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar's
Compound - Menzerna FG-400
Polish - Menzerna PF-2500
Finishing Polish - Menzerna SF-4000
Sealant - CarPro Reload
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax - Duragloss Aquawax
Tire Cleaner - PoorBoy's World Spray & Rinse
Wheel Cleaner - Sonax Full Effect
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Wheel Protectant - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Trim Protectant - CarPro DLux
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
Interior Protectant - Meguiar's M40


Foam Pads


Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
 
BobbyG said:
Becoming completely overwhelmed is a rite of passage when learning how to correctly detail your car....While the sky's the limit, there's no need to spend $1000.00 or more on the basics.

I like to recommend Porter Cables 7424XP polisher. I have both the first and second generation. My first generation is 15 years old and still performs like new. Is there anything wrong with the Flex 3401? No, not at all and in fact I have one on the shelf but they are more costly.


If you're just starting out I would suggest a Porter Cable 7424xp Kit sold here....:props:

Basic steps in order are:


  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Lets dive into the products!


Sealant vs Wax

Sealants are man made or a "synthetic wax", Sealants actually cross-link and bond to the finish. Sealants have come a long way over the past 10 years or so and will actually rival some of the finest waxes and far exceed waxes durability.

Wax is a more natural product typically containing various grades of carnauba. Rather than bond, waxes sit on top of the finish. Waxes typically give the finish a warmer glow and a deeper wet shine.

If used together, sealants should be applied to a freshly polished finish, allowed to cure, and wax as the final step.

1-Step or Full Correction

All-in-ones or 1-step products do a nice job at removing oxidation, grime, and minor surface defects. The latest products do a damn nice job and leave some protection behind.

Compounding and Polishing are the purest way of turning an ordinary finish to a glass-like shine. There is really no comparison between the two but your goal and satisfaction will dictate your approach..

Coatings

Several manufactures are now offering urethane coating that are literally permanent. Once the finish is properly prepared, these new coatings add a layer of protection that's actually more durable than the clear coat.

While these coatings might be harder they are much thinner than a factory applied clear so don't confuse the two but they are very good and easy to apply.


If you'd like some product suggestions that perform, take a look at these. I will guarantee they will not disappoint...


Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar's
Compound - Menzerna FG-400
Polish - Menzerna PF-2500
Finishing Polish - Menzerna SF-4000
Sealant - CarPro Reload
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax - Duragloss Aquawax
Tire Cleaner - PoorBoy's World Spray & Rinse
Wheel Cleaner - Sonax Full Effect
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Wheel Protectant - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Trim Protectant - CarPro DLux
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
Interior Protectant - Meguiar's M40


Foam Pads


Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.
Click to expand...
Good advice Bobby as always. :dblthumb2:
 
No need for anymore opinions here...looks like you got TONS of great advice already! These guys just saved you over $100 and got you some good products!!!!!!
 
Thank you for the replies. This being liquid wax, do you apply it via the machine or by hand? I assume it dries just like carnuba and then you wipe it off??

Also, While my car is older I do not see the oxidation that I do on some. Ive kept it in reasonably good shape. So my question is, if I use a polish that is meant for extreme correction on a car that only needed light to moderate correction did I now just somehow screw up my paint? Or is that when you come back around with a finer polish?

Reading some of the comments it looks like a two step process on the machine correct? First polish the whole car with a heavier grit, then the whole car in a lighter grit, then done with the machine right?
 
payj said:
Thank you for the replies. This being liquid wax, do you apply it via the machine or by hand? I assume it dries just like carnuba and then you wipe it off??
Click to expand...

I do not know what product you are referring to, but a carnauba wax can be liquid or paste; there are added ingredients to make the wax spread easier. You can apply wax with a machine or by hand.

Also, While my car is older I do not see the oxidation that I do on some. Ive kept it in reasonably good shape.
Click to expand...
It is much harder to see oxidation and defects on silver paint.

So my question is, if I use a polish that is meant for extreme correction on a car that only needed light to moderate correction did I now just somehow screw up my paint? Or is that when you come back around with a finer polish?
Click to expand...
You won't screw up the paint, per se, but you may be removing more than is necessary.

Reading some of the comments it looks like a two step process on the machine correct? First polish the whole car with a heavier grit, then the whole car in a lighter grit, then done with the machine right?
Click to expand...
Whether or not you need to do both a compounding and polishing step depends on how much correction is needed. You should always do a test spot first to determine what product(s) to use, and you should do a test spot using the least aggressive polish and pad first. If all your car's paint needs is a light polish, then you can proceed doing the rest of the car in just one simple, single step. If there are still defects, that's when you may need to move to a two step process. In the end, it really depends on how far you want to take it, and what you deem as an acceptable finish.
 
That makes sense. So, in most peoples suggestions to me they suggest two polishes. I would start with the lightest one and go to the next level if I did not like it correct?

Also, how does one really apply the polish? Smear it, then use the flex right? Does it so of disappear and that's when you know its done? Then, do you "buff" it off? That is done with a different pad correct?
 
The best advice anyone can give for those kind of questions is to check out Mike's great videos. This will give a basic understanding of the process for polishing paint, I feel like anyone getting into this should have a basic understanding of the process before they jump into it. Once you have a understanding of the basics the best way to learn is to get out and have some fun detailing.
I would also recommend you watch some of Junkman's videos, they are really in depth.
 
Also, do you apply the polish with one, lets say orange pad and then take it off with another virgin orange pad? Making is necessary to buy 2? Or does the compound/polish dissolve with the heat/motion of the machine?
 
Please read the link and follow the links within the post I gave to you. You need more than one pad to do a car I'd recommend at least 3.
 
Just get a shampoo, sealant, cutting compound (light, medium, or both), polishing compound (V38), and a wax. To be honest I have this arsenal:

-CG Mr. Pink & CG Citruswash + Gloss
-CG V34,V36, and V38
-Blacklight
-Hybrid V7
-Jet Seal 109
- CG Pur Concours Paste Wax 50/50, Petes 53, Lava, Black, and Celeste Dettaglio
- P40 Spray detailing
 
PC 7242 with hex logic pads (Orange, White, Green, Blue, Black, and Red) with pad conditioner.
 
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