Help with Adhesive Removal In New Car Decontamination

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All,

I've used products from AG for many years now and have always learned a great deal from the site. I finally have a real need to ask for some help from the pros and those with experience.

We just picked-up a new car (light silver metallic), and it has what appears to be spots of adhesive from the shipping wrap. I can only assume they pulled it off in freezing weather to create such an issue. Normally, I would hit a spot like this with a quick wipe of solvent in the decon process. However, there are so many spots all over the large panels of the car that I thought it might be easier to just do a biological decon step after the IronX before any needed claying/correction. I have read of some detailers using this step to remove some large biologicals before claying.

I read through old posts and have seen several products mentioned such as TarX, Tarminator, Wurth Clean Solve, 3M Adhesive Cleaner, Rapid Remover, Xenit Citrus, etc. I did see that MP used the Wurth as a final prep step on one of the coating installs. I believe it was a Mustang, but I didn't see all the details. I also have some Poor Boys Bug Squash.

What product would be safest to apply and what technique would you guys recommend? Of course, the wife has spent hours telling me why it should go back to the dealer. She blames me since I told them not to touch it before delivery.:props:
I really appreciate the assistance.

Best regards,

Mike C.
 
No need to spend tons of money. $5 worth of mineral spirits and a MF Rag. Wash with soap and water after.
 
Xenit by stoners would be ideal,however mineral spirits may work some times it's a little weak depending on the brand.Those glue lines and spots harden up a little after a while.I would wash the car first so you don't rub in grit and you can see clearly.Then wash it after Like suggested.
 
I would also suggest after you wash the car, use a non-ammonia window cleaner. I've used it in the past and I saturate the area, let it soak for a little bit and then just rub it off. I don't worry about marring with the adhesives in a new car since I'm going to be compounding and polishing anyway.
 
Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I was planning on tackling this on my third step after initial wash and IronX. Would there be a better point? It seems like from a product standpoint it's just going to be whatever solvent based item one has around that works. I can always give the Poorboys a shot, and I certainly have mineral spirits, goo gone and the like. Every post has different ideas with effectiveness tied to the unique condition I guess.

I did want to start off gentle. This is the wife's DD so I'm hoping conditions might allow a light decon followed with cleaner polish and sealant. I haven't had a vehicle I liked enough in a while to do the full 9 unless something is way off on inspection. Sometimes, I'll hit a few spots with swirl remover before polish. This seems to work for me, especially when I know what the vehicle is going to be subject to the minute it hits the daily commute.

I do have to get the PPF the trade dealer had put under the handles and on door edges. I have no idea what they used and don't want to chance it. I'll wait until the Ohio valley heat for that job. None of this is going to be fun or finished quickly as its 20 degrees at the moment.

Best,

Mike C.
 
I would do the mineral spirits (or whatever product you use to remove the adhesive) prior to the Iron-X. The rationale being that if there are any iron particles buried in or below the adhesive residue the Iron-X may not be effective in those areas.

The likelihood of iron particles below the adhesive is probably pretty low but it sure can't hurt to remove the adhesive residue first. Then proceed as you typically would from that point on.
 
I purchased a new truck just last month and encountered the same issue, just not at the level that you seem to be experiencing. Surprisingly, the adhesive came off during the initial wash.


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GSKR said:
Xenit by stoners would be ideal,however mineral spirits may work some times it's a little weak depending on the brand.Those glue lines and spots harden up a little after a while.I would wash the car first so you don't rub in grit and you can see clearly.Then wash it after Like suggested.
Click to expand...

Xenit citrus works awesome on adhesives!
 
2black1s said:
I would do the mineral spirits (or whatever product you use to remove the adhesive) prior to the Iron-X. The rationale being that if there are any iron particles buried in or below the adhesive residue the Iron-X may not be effective in those areas.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I never thought of that. I did think that there are so many spots that I didn't want to work them until getting the iron off the car. I just might give it a before and after to be on the cautious side.

Best,

Mike
 
Helltopay said:
I purchased a new truck just last month and encountered the same issue, just not at the level that you seem to be experiencing. Surprisingly, the adhesive came off during the initial wash.
Click to expand...

I could only get so lucky! It's so cold that I'm not holding my breath. I might lightly inspect it during wash just to see what may happen. I may be getting worked up over something that's not going to be that big of a deal. It could just end up being a little extra time and care.

Best,

Mike
 
LEDetailing said:
Xenit citrus works awesome on adhesives!
Click to expand...

I kind of like this approach before pulling out the pure solvents, yet I'm not versed enough to know if there is any difference.

Would anyone know if the Xenit is similar to the Poor Boys Bug Squash undiluted in make-up? I'd like to use it since it's already here, but anything new I'm going to try will have to be in my next order before I actually get to the car.

Best,

Mike
 
I believe we just used wax at the dealership. It was probably the solvent in the wax that did the work.

I'd try something simple like Tarminator or mineral spirits first. Xenit would surely do it but it should be unnecessary. Xenit is about the only product I've seen recommend for removing road paint which is very tough.
 
Yes, but I think that could be dangerous. I would consider acetone a hot solvent. I could be wrong.
 
DogRescuer said:
Would acetone work?
Click to expand...

Acetone is much too aggressive. I'd be very hesitant to use acetone on any painted surface. Mineral Spirits is a very versatile and safe solvent in most cases and would be my product of choice.
 
I'm sure the traditional solvents would work as one or the other will usually get problem adhesives removed. I'm just not as focused as my younger days and would like all the margin for error and safety as possible now.

The more I read about the products often mentioned I'm kind of grouping them in my head based on my understanding of the level of solvent. There are the traditional petroleum based products and the highly concentrated citrus based products. Then, I assume there are some products that are just versions of the same with less or different concentration of solvent. I guess these would be the products that I often see being used on the forum for whole vehicle decontamination. This is probably where I want to start as I'm assuming that the pros who use these also appreciate things that are a little less reactive to plastics, trim, etc.

I'm thinking that TarX would be in this category. I see that AG describes the PB Bug Squash as a strong cleaner, but I often spray it without regard as a pre-soak in 3:1. I've read here that others do as well. It certainly might qualify as strong without dilution. I've only used it that way on stubborn, small spots. I have no idea how it works applied straight to large sections, but I wouldn't think it would be as strong as the most heavily concentrated solvents. Please correct me if I'm on the wrong track.

Best,

Mike
 
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