help with cleaning oil leak in engine bay

M

matryx

New member
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
183
Reaction score
0
I have an oil leak and going to replace the gasket but wanted to clean this up first and would like some tips on how to do this effectively.

Here are some pictures I took. Just wondering how you guys would tackle this job? I was planning to just use ZEP CD but not sure if that will get it all of or safe for the job. Just kind of worried I mess up some stuff. I'v only wash my engine bay once and used a light spray of water and some degreaser so not that experience with this.

Did you get get all the oil off and what did you use? Also you did this before doing the DIY right? Kind of scary of you took the valve cover off and started power washing it...

IMG_3185_zps3085a82f.jpg


IMG_3184_zps1eee5d45.jpg


IMG_3182_zps66b255df.jpg


IMG_3182_zps66b255df.jpg


IMG_3180_zpsb2af3c76.jpg
 
Why don't you clean the engine after changing the gasket? I would definitely cover (tin foil) those exposed wires and connectors. Sonax Engine Detailer will do a great job for you.
 
I would do the cleaning part after repair in case any spillage, etc, during the repair though wrap the connectors, spark plug(coil packs), loose wire's, air filter, battery etc then you can use APC diluted to 1:10 or use a dedicated engine cleaner such as Sonus Trim & Motor Kote, to clean the engine, and this may take a couple of cleanings so don't be disapointed, and don't use your good brushed/cleaning tools if you love them dearly as they may get damage from the oily residue
 
That's an easy one to clean. You can do that one with an APC or dish soap. I wouldn't worry too much about the wiring. It gets wet when it rains. Just don't spray high pressure directly at it. If you have a garden hose you can hook to your hot water tank it will take the oil away much better than cold water. Soapy hot water can make a job like this a breeze.
 
Any good degreaser will work. Cover up the vitals and just agitate with a stiff paint brush and you'll be happy you did. I'm with you if I know where the leak is already I clean before I start. No one wants to be working in oily dirt. I always clean it up afterwards as well so you can see if the gasket is weeping at all and if you have fixed your issue.
 
You could spray it with some brake cleaner. Then spray it down again when you're finished with the gasket. The mating surfaces of the gasket and whatever it's touching should be cleaned with a mild solvent anyways to help the gasket seal. So, pick up a couple of cans of chlorine free brake cleaner and some shop rags.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I really appreciated. I got OPC and ZEP Citrus Degreaser so I'll try them both. I'm thinking I'll have to hit it a few times before it gets all clean. Going to use some old tooth brushes and some cheap brushes from the local dollar store and go at it when I get a chance.

It does make a lot of sense cleaning it after I've done repairs. I guess I was just thinking about cleaning it up since I have some time now. My parts not going to come in until next week.
 
Brake Kleen - 3 or 4 cans. That is the best way to clean that mess. Been there - done that many o' times. All APCs are water based products - so they will not dissolve grease/oil anywhere near as good as Brake Kleen - which is filled with solvents. Water based cleaners are poor at cleaning up oil - regardless of what detergents or surfactants are in them.

With enough Brake Kleen that is able to be cleaned touchlessly, although I'd probably hit it with a pressure washer first to knock off as much as possible.
 
Just came back from the coin wash and power wash the engine bay.
Used ZEP heavy duty citrus degreaser, Optimum power clean 3:1, and Gunk engine degreaser and got most of the oil off.

I was a bit weary spraying the degreasers in front since they belt was sitting right there. Would if be harmful if some of the oil I cleaned off get on the serpentine belt? Do you guys usually cover the belt also when spraying done the engine to clean up oil leaks?
 
Sounds like you had fun, though I does cover the belt most of the time by wrapping a general purpose microfiber towel around it but as long as you avoided as much as possible you should be fine, however if you are worried oil might got on the belt just keep your ear's open if you hear any type of screeching noise when idling, or accelerating just change the belt/and or make sure it's the belt that's defective
 
Sounds like it worked out well for you. Do be careful when cleaning the valve cover and top end of the motor when it's apart, you don't want to remove any lubrication from the cams and risk damage to them or the rollers/followers
 
I'm a mechanic by profession and clean up a lot of engine bays, so I suppose I'll offer my two cents...

For gnarly leaks, especially on the underside of the engine where you don't have to worry about damaging paint as much, I find what saves a lot of time, gets everything perfectly clean and saves money (brake clean has gotten really expensive at around $5 a can) is oven cleaner. A can of easy off and some water and you can clean even the grimiest of engine bays. Spray the oven cleaner on the affected area and let it sit. The oven cleaner will literally melt the grease right off. You can hose it down after, or even better, use a pressure washer to clean everything off. It'll look as clean as it did when new, and you can work on the car without getting your tools and hands so dirty, and be able to see what's going on better.
 
Oven cleaner works WELL!!! Just don't use it on a hot engine...you want warm (130° or so) and DO NOT inhale the fumes.

For a good price on oven cleaner, take a look at your local "dollar store."

Should run ya only a dollar a can.

Bill
 
jaxtalonturbo said:
I'm a mechanic by profession and clean up a lot of engine bays, so I suppose I'll offer my two cents...

For gnarly leaks, especially on the underside of the engine where you don't have to worry about damaging paint as much, I find what saves a lot of time, gets everything perfectly clean and saves money (brake clean has gotten really expensive at around $5 a can) is oven cleaner. A can of easy off and some water and you can clean even the grimiest of engine bays. Spray the oven cleaner on the affected area and let it sit. The oven cleaner will literally melt the grease right off. You can hose it down after, or even better, use a pressure washer to clean everything off. It'll look as clean as it did when new, and you can work on the car without getting your tools and hands so dirty, and be able to see what's going on better.
Click to expand...

I wonder...I have a lot of experience of cleaning engines with brake clean and Ardex Solvent with a pressurized sprayer - but Oven Cleaner???

Does oven cleaner damage plastics or rubber bushings? Rubber housings around wire?
 
Also my engine was hot when I did this. Didn't occurred to me until I actually sprayed the cleans on the engine. I guess it didn't do any harm.

Do any of you guys clean the engine when it is hot or do you let it cool for an hour or two before cleaning it?

It was hard to access some areas. I need a better tool or brush to get to all the nooks and crannies. I did what I could and got it pretty clean. Threw away all the dollar brushes that had thick gunky oil on them after cleaning the engine.
 
swanicyouth said:
I wonder...I have a lot of experience of cleaning engines with brake clean and Ardex Solvent with a pressurized sprayer - but Oven Cleaner???

Does oven cleaner damage plastics or rubber bushings? Rubber housings around wire?
Click to expand...

Most oil leaks are usually from valve cover gaskets (top end) front seals, rear seals and oil pan gaskets (bottom end), and the rest is usually built up grease, dust and grime. Oven cleaner is a little overkill where plastic would be, which is usually on the top side where your air box/mass air meter, fuse/relay box etc is. On those particular areas I use APC or diluted degreaser. If you are concerned about damaging or staining engine cover plastics like those found on late model cars, those should be removed prior to cleaning, and will allow more access to more of the engine bay.

As far as the bottom end, you don't really have to worry much about damaging plastics or bushings, you aren't letting it sit there for longer than a few minutes, and you're mostly going to be cleaning metal areas like the subframe and oil pan anyhow. I would advise using high pressure water around the timing chan/belt cover area, as you don't want to damage a component like a crank angle sensor. Just use common sense, it's really hard to damage an engine bay with degreaser/oven cleaner and water... I've done dozens and dozens and have yet to ever have a customer have an issue.
 
matryx said:
Also my engine was hot when I did this. Didn't occurred to me until I actually sprayed the cleans on the engine. I guess it didn't do any harm.

Do any of you guys clean the engine when it is hot or do you let it cool for an hour or two before cleaning it?

It was hard to access some areas. I need a better tool or brush to get to all the nooks and crannies. I did what I could and got it pretty clean. Threw away all the dollar brushes that had thick gunky oil on them after cleaning the engine.
Click to expand...


You don't want to do it right after it's hot for obvious reasons, mainly that cool water on hot exhaust manifolds can cause them to crack, same goes for hot aluminum components such as the cylinder head and or engine block if it's late model. Best to wait until it's sat for at least and hour or so. It'll still be warm, but cool enough to clean.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top