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- Thread starter kendra
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just a car wash would remove any oils left on top... you probably don't need to strip anything off...
you should go over the car with some #34 final inspection. it will remove any leftover oils from the glaze without needing to do a full wash. after doing a wax or anything that could leave behind something, i typically do a QD or cleaner afterwards to pick up any oils that could be lingering, or spots i could have missed.
you should go over the car with some #34 final inspection. it will remove any leftover oils from the glaze without needing to do a full wash. after doing a wax or anything that could leave behind something, i typically do a QD or cleaner afterwards to pick up any oils that could be lingering, or spots i could have missed.
hernandez.art13
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- Apr 8, 2013
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Is that the car in your profile? and was the car ever repainted?
It should come off pretty easily, only thing that would concern me is, if the car is a vintage classic. Maybe a traditional style wash (2 bucket method and hose) might not be the best option. Due to water/metal/rust.
Other than that I am pretty sure it should be ok, just not to sure about single stage paint and how much it would suck up Meguiar's no. 7 if it is fact single stage paint.
I'm sure Mike Phillips will chime in on this later today if possible.
So sit tight a lot of them are snoozing right now
It should come off pretty easily, only thing that would concern me is, if the car is a vintage classic. Maybe a traditional style wash (2 bucket method and hose) might not be the best option. Due to water/metal/rust.
Other than that I am pretty sure it should be ok, just not to sure about single stage paint and how much it would suck up Meguiar's no. 7 if it is fact single stage paint.
I'm sure Mike Phillips will chime in on this later today if possible.
So sit tight a lot of them are snoozing right now
kendra
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- Sep 11, 2014
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It is the 64 Valiant in my profile. I'm not sure about how many stages of paint it went through. It was professionally painted.
I ordered the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit that should be here today. We are doing a fundraising car show this weekend and I need to look it's best....but I don't have a lot of time to do a whole lot of steps.
I ordered the Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit that should be here today. We are doing a fundraising car show this weekend and I need to look it's best....but I don't have a lot of time to do a whole lot of steps.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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#7 Show Car Glaze is a very oil product that doesn't really dry, it's like a semi-drying oil.
It works best on single stage paints and my guess is when the car was repainted they used a basecoat/clearcoat paint system. So that's a little bit of the reason you're having a problem and that's because clearcoats, unlike single stage paints, don't absorb well. So these oils are just sitting on the top of the paint.
Most of my articles on using #7 have to do with restoring oxidized, single stage paint and when used for this purpose it can work miracle.
Like this,
1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
Before
After
Craig actually attended one of my Detailing Boot Camp Classes....
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
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Just to note... in my how-to book I recommend AFTER polishing a car to move the vehicle into different lighting conditions and re-inspect the paint.
Moving the car into a new or different lighting condition will reveal streaks and smears for any product that you previously could not see. Just a tip for the future.
It's very oily and with a strong soap and a gentle touch you could wash it off.
If the car needs to be washed before you use the Blackfire product you just ordered then go for it. Just don't scrub the paint as that will scratch it.
Very cool car.
Like mentioned previously, it's probably a basecoat/clearcoat paint system like you would get on a brand new car. That's what most body shops, restoration shops and custom paint shops use as the EPA regulated old school single stage paint systems out of the industry.
If it had a single stage paint system, you would have seen blue paint coming off on your applicators and wipe-off towels when applying and removing the #7.
This kit includes,
Synthetic Sealant - Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
Shampoo - Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo.
Paint Cleaner - Gloss Enhancing Polish
Spray-on paint sealant - Wet Diamond Polymer Spray
The best way to tackle this, assuming the car is clean except for the #7 residue film
Apply the Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish to the paint. Use this product heavy or wet, that means use an ample amount. This will dissolve the #7. Work a small section at a time, about 16" to 20" squarish or so and then immediately after working a section with the Gloss Enhancing Polish wipe it off.
Move onto a new section.
You can also apply this with a dual action polisher like a Porter Cable if you have one and use a soft foam finishing pad.
Next... apply the Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection by hand or with a dual action polisher like a Porter Cable.
Apply a thin coat and allow it to dry to a haze. About 15 minutes or so...
Then, fold your clean, soft microfiber towels 4-ways and softly wipe the wax off using overlapping, circular motions.
Make sense? With you and your guy working together you should be able to do the entire car in about 2 hours or so.
Hope this helps....
kendra
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- Sep 11, 2014
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Thanks Mike.... The information is Very Helpful!!!
I'm really glad to hear that the products I bought we help me.
I'm unsure what strong soap to use. I don't think we have any on-hand and I don't have the time to order anything online. Is there a product that I can get OTC at a local auto care place? I heard that dawn soap would work...But, at this point---> I'm afraid to use any products that aren't meant for our kind of paint.
We have also noticed some small scratched on the hood and my guy thinks it maybe from the DA....and is now gun shy to use it.
I'm sure I will post another thread on how to go about fixing them...but I just don't have time to work on that before this weekend.
I will try the things you suggested by hand.
Again, thanks for all the input guys
I'm really glad to hear that the products I bought we help me.
I'm unsure what strong soap to use. I don't think we have any on-hand and I don't have the time to order anything online. Is there a product that I can get OTC at a local auto care place? I heard that dawn soap would work...But, at this point---> I'm afraid to use any products that aren't meant for our kind of paint.
We have also noticed some small scratched on the hood and my guy thinks it maybe from the DA....and is now gun shy to use it.
I'm sure I will post another thread on how to go about fixing them...but I just don't have time to work on that before this weekend.
I will try the things you suggested by hand.
Again, thanks for all the input guys
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Dawn dish washing soap should work fine to remove the oily #7 off the paint just be sure to wash the paint carefully. I would say this no matter what the detailing project.
Washing a basecoat/clearcoat finish with a detergent soap isn't going to harm the paint.
Repeatedly washing any car with a detergent soap is overkill and can remove regular car waxes and some sealants and in my opinion is too harsh for the task at hand when better options are available.
But to wash with Dawn for this one instance and for this special project you're good to go.
The DA polisher would not cause scratches.
Using the wrong pad or having dirt on the pad or the paint or using the wrong compound or polish could have caused these but not the polisher.
Need to know what pads and products you used to help further.
Sounds good. You can even do a Test Spot by hand. That is, after washing, apply the Gloss Enhancing Polish to a section of paint about the size of a microfiber towel and then wipe it off.
Next apply the sealant to this section, let it dry and then wipe it off.
Inspect the results. The paint should look clear and glossy and feel very slick.
Do this before doing the entire car.