Here is my plan for my first advanced detailing

[friendly_jacek]

Feel free to critique.

The car is my former DD car (white 2003 corolla) that was garaged and regularly washed/waxed. I gave it to my kid a couple of years ago, she kept the car in the sun a lot and was not as religious about washing/waxing. Not surprising, the finish suffered a lot. It's dirty, and lost some of it's luster and has matte appearance now in one panel that is perfectly horizontal (oxidized? water spots?). Apparently toyota white is single stage and has no clear coat.

After doing a lot of research, this is what I decided (and I placed a big order on autogeek):
Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge Combo (clay alternative)
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (I saw great comparos on this on youtube)
Optimum Polish II (oil free, so less cleaning before opti-coat)
Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coat
MF towels, applicators, etc.

I'm also buying the HF 6" DA ROB and a few 6" pads.

I plan to do careful Dawn washing before the project and IPA washdowns before the opticoating.

I saw enough videos on youtube, I feel confident about the project. The worst parts will be the handle wells. There are lots of scratches there and the DA polisher will not touch those curvatures. I will have to do those by hand I guess.

The part I'm still learning is painted plastics like bumpers, trims, handles and mirrors. After filling the scratches, do I treat them exactly like the paint on metal panels?

Thanks!

 

[mwoolfso]

After filling the scratches, do I treat them exactly like the paint on metal panels?

Thanks!

If you are planning on polishing the trim then I would say no; not exactly. List your steps specifically for the trim pieces, please.

 

[ski2]

I'm also buying the HF 6" DA ROB and a few 6" pads.

The major complaint and problem with the HF DA has been the poor quality of the backing plate. Might be a better idea to purchase a quality 5" backing plate and quality 5.5" pads.

 

[c8n]

With the HF DA, I second replacing the original BP.
Also, take a look at the curves on the car as the 5.5" or 6.5" pads might not fit very well. If need be, should also order some smaller pads. Personally, I ordered 3" BP and pads.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Thanks for the tips on smaller plates and pads. Will do it.

As for the bumper/panted plastic detailing, I can find nothing about it. I assumed you can use the same tools (DA) and polishes. I guess I'm wrong about it.

 

[MTLean]

Plan looks good! Not a fan of UC anymore though, consumer line turns me off

Good luck with your project

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[c8n]

I have read somewhere depending on the composition of the panel, the heat transfer can be different and the rate of correction can be different as well. However, I just think that you should just follow good judgement and inspect your work often and someone can correct me if I am wrong but if it is painted, you should apply same procedure.

 

[Antihero47]

Yup, I third the new backing plate for the Harbor Freight polisher. It tears those pads up if you even attempt to use speed 5-6 or the first time you try taking them off.

I keep a few black finishing ones for applying waxes but have gone the way of the 5.5" microfiber cutting and polishing pads on a 5" backing plate.

 

[cleanmycorolla]

Plan looks good! Not a fan of UC anymore though, consumer line turns me off

Good luck with your project

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Wait, so because it can be had OTC means you won't buy it if needed? Why? UC is pretty awesome, it's cheap, and just works! Just because its OTC doesn't mean it's bad or not good, Mothers and Megs make great stuff OTC or not!

I've seen some show and shines where people used UC and depending on the car finished for them LSP ready. That's pretty awesome.

OP, maybe gets some iron x get that tough stuff off, much easier to clay then too. What about your wheels, tires, wheel wells? What about your interior, you just listed exterior stuff. Your daughter probably spends more time in the car than out so she might really appreciate a crisp interior.

 

[MTLean]

Wait, so because it can be had OTC means you won't buy it if needed? Why? UC is pretty awesome, it's cheap, and just works! Just because its OTC doesn't mean it's bad or not good, Mothers and Megs make great stuff OTC or not!

I've seen some show and shines where people used UC and depending on the car finished for them LSP ready. That's pretty awesome.

Im not saying its bad, im saying i rather their professional line. I used UC and UP before and worked great but i guess its personal preference i feel like im getting more done with M105 when compounding and that M205 brings out the flakes way more then UP with some good degree of swirl removal.


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[cardaddy]

Plan looks good! Not a fan of UC anymore though, consumer line turns me off

Good luck with your project

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Say WHAT?
Many will jump on what they've read on a forum and buy 105/205 only to find out that 105 is typically horrible to work with. It takes a bit of patience to even get 105 to work, much less work it on different paints, different conditions, etc.

Without a doubt, UC, while it doesn't have all the cut of 105 is PERFECT to use WITH 105. With a dry paint UC can save the day (because of the additional polishing oils). I've primed the pad with UC more times than I can remember, then used 105 to 'work' the panel with. Or... at the very least after priming with 105 use 'micro-pea' sized drops and mix 105 with UC.

Of course you can just buy 101 (and I have it as well), but UC will always have a place on my cart.

Wait, so because it can be had OTC means you won't buy it if needed? Why? UC is pretty awesome, it's cheap, and just works! Just because its OTC doesn't mean it's bad or not good, Mothers and Megs make great stuff OTC or not!

I've seen some show and shines where people used UC and depending on the car finished for them LSP ready. That's pretty awesome.

:iagree:
Exactly!
Megs UC is, (and I have OFTEN TOLD workers in local stores) likely THE best product they have, along with Meg's UP and of course ULW.:dblthumb2:

OP, maybe gets some iron x get that tough stuff off, much easier to clay then too. What about your wheels, tires, wheel wells? What about your interior, you just listed exterior stuff. Your daughter probably spends more time in the car than out so she might really appreciate a crisp interior.

I have to admit, I'm guilty of 'exterior overload' because that's what I enjoy the most. Well that... and I keep the interior of my car stupidly clean.

That being said, I have been stocking up on more and more interior chemicals and tools.

Not always wanting to fire up my 13HP Honda pressure washer, I decided to get a little electric for very light duty stuff like rinsing and door jambs, even some under hood stuff.

We picked up a Craftsman 1700psi Pressure Washer AND combination Steam Cleaner Saturday. It gets weird reviews mainly because it doesn't have a decent way to store all the stuff. What with a 25' coiled up pressure hose, another 25' power cord (with built in GFCI at the end), 1 wand, 2 wand extensions, AND the whole steam hose and wand part.

It works just fine, but don't expect to be able to coil all that junk around it. At least the pressure hose and all the wands are quick release, which make for easy storage. (At least I think so.) Plus you can then roll it around without all the PW hose and just use the steam cleaner.

Hopefully when I grow up I'll be able to get a VC4000!

 

[MTLean]

Say WHAT?
Many will jump on what they've read on a forum and buy 105/205 only to find out that 105 is typically horrible to work with. It takes a bit of patience to even get 105 to work, much less work it on different paints, different conditions, etc.

Without a doubt, UC, while it doesn't have all the cut of 105 is PERFECT to use WITH 105. With a dry paint UC can save the day (because of the additional polishing oils). I've primed the pad with UC more times than I can remember, then used 105 to 'work' the panel with. Or... at the very least after priming with 105 use 'micro-pea' sized drops and mix 105 with UC.

Of course you can just buy 101 (and I have it as well), but UC will always have a place on my cart.

I like that pad priming idea, will definitely give it a shot as i still have 2 bottles in my arsenal

I wasnt bashing UC as its what i started off with, it does go a long way and saved my butt on a couple jobs.

Im glad my quick comment generated a good tip

Thanks


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[friendly_jacek]

Im not saying its bad, im saying i rather their professional line. I used UC and UP before and worked great but i guess its personal preference i feel like im getting more done with M105 when compounding and that M205 brings out the flakes way more then UP with some good degree of swirl removal.

Based on my readings, M105 is more aggressive than UC. Based on that and a recommendation that UC works on SS paint even by hand alone, I went with UC. I had to make a decision quick before the free SH promo ended here. I was not sure at that time if I would have power tools. I ended up buying both DA and rotary tool from HF (extra discounts on both of those right now) and will see how that works for me. Still ordering the smaller pads and plates. I will be careful and will start with low speed and taped edges.

 

[cardaddy]

I like that pad priming idea, will definitely give it a shot as i still have 2 bottles in my arsenal

I wasnt bashing UC as its what i started off with, it does go a long way and saved my butt on a couple jobs.

Im glad my quick comment generated a good tip

Thanks


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No problem... glad I popped a new idea at ya'.
I'd been using that trick with 105 for some time actually. Of course 105 was out there long before UC and back then you'd try to 'prime' the paint with #7 to put some moisture in it. Of course 83 was my go to for YEARS long before then. Then of course after UC hit the stores, following the logic of using the least cut you can get away with I'd sometimes start with UC then have to move to 105. Way back when, I'd do everything with a clean pad and if UC didn't give me the correction I was looking for, just toss that pad in cleaner and go to 105 in a fresh pad. One day I didn't wanna' prime a new pad so I just took the UC pad and put 105 on it.... PRESTO! :doh:

Then like many, I bought 101 just to see what all the talk was about. Then after I got 101, I figured I'd NEVER use all my 105! But I'd been doing the UC/105 thing for a long time by then and figured what the heck, I might just pour a bottle of UC in the 105 (if the 105 sits so long it starts drying up!!!). :laughing:

Based on my readings, M105 is more aggressive than UC. Based on that and a recommendation that UC works on SS paint even by hand alone, I went with UC. I had to make a decision quick before the free SH promo ended here. I was not sure at that time if I would have power tools. I ended up buying both DA and rotary tool from HF (extra discounts on both of those right now) and will see how that works for me. Still ordering the smaller pads and plates. I will be careful and will start with low speed and taped edges.

Yup, 105 is more aggressive, (as in the most aggressive on Meg's charts, with several others) but it'll still work by hand. For a great on that has medium cut you might try 83. Works great by hand and machine. :xyxthumbs:

 

[hernandez.art13]

To OP tape of the edges, corners and trim.

Preparation will make the job so much easier, enjoyable and will save time and money.