How Cold is too cold to seal and wax?

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Jertronic

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The Northeast winter is approaching. I have frost-free outdoor hose spigots so water is not a problem. My Scion FR-S 10-series (sliver) was driven off the lot by me on July 10. I have done nothing except wash the car using the 2 bucket method with a small amt. of ONR added to soap bucket and a diluted ONR soln. in spray bottle as a quick detailer.

I want to clay bar the care and then apply sealant (DP policoat paint sealant) and then use Collinte Insulator Wax #845 over the top.

I do not have a random orbital polisher nor any power polisher equipment of any kind. I'm doing this job by hand with applicator pads and microfiber cloths.

How much longer do i have before I am relegated to working inside my garage? The garage is only a single, therefore working outdoor is much preferred.
 
Welcome to AGO.

When working with a coating you should be doing it in a garage to allow the coating to properly cure without being affected by moisture.
 
I have a very thorough article on this topic and you can find it below and in my article list which the link to is at the bottom of everyone of my posts.


What temperature ranges are best for applying compounds, polishes, waxes and paint sealants


TaylorOutdoorThermometer.jpg



:dblthumb2:
 
Here's the short answer...


Mike Phillips said:
The best surface temperature range for applying compounds, polishes, waxes and paint sealants is in a range of 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. A simple test you can do is to feel the surface, it should not feel warm or hot to the touch.


Most premium quality car detailing products will work easily within a much broader temperature range, such as, 50 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit but optimum results are when you're working in a range of 60 degrees to 80 degrees.
Click to expand...


And since this was your first post to our forum...


Welcome to AGO!


:welcome:
 
Winter came to soon here in Wisconsin, they are already reporting wind chills on the weather forecasts. Hoping for a little warm up before it snows.
 
First off welcome to AG!

Now I know you wanted to enjoy your new ride when you got it but why didn't you spennd a day in the summer/early fall and clay/seal your car up, just curious? The paint on that car is probably pretty soft so you could probably do a decent correction by hand. You'll need to clay, then use something with a little "bite" to it, maybe Meg's UC would be ok since your doing it by hand, then the sealant, wait 12 hrs and then the #845. It needs to be atleast 60 to wax/seal your car, 70, like Mike posted, is even better. I suggest you try and borrow someones garage, get a propane heater and get to it.....also, don't forget the snow tires either!

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Whenever it is really cold out and I'm not in a climate controlled area working I put all other LSP's away and use exclusively Opti-Seal. Have never had a problem with it not bonding or flashing even in sub freezing temps.

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VP Mark said:
Whenever it is really cold out and I'm not in a climate controlled area working I put all other LSP's away and use exclusively Opti-Seal. Have never had a problem with it not bonding or flashing even in sub freezing temps.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Thanks Mark :xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for all the input! We just bought a house also so free time has been at a premium. I will get to this pronto.


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Thanks for chiming in to this thread Mike, I'm facing the same situation in the North East (NJ) with the temps dropping and I wanted to put a coat of sealent on my car without causing any problems. You put my mind at ease. Again, thanks Mike.
 
As long as it is above freezing LSP's work OK for me. I don't bother polishing if it is too cold , if I can help it.
 
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