Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
How do I carefully restore the original paint on a 1950 Cadillac?
Anytime I get questions via e-mail, a PM or a FB message I prefer to invest my typing time where
A: It's easier for me to share links, pictures and videos.
B: More people can read and thus benefit from the information. (no just one set of eyeballs)
So I get an e-mail asking,
Hi Mike, I enjoyed speaking with you on the phone last week about the all original 1950 Cadillac.
I have worked on the chrome and got it straight as can be. I spent about 4 hours just on that.
Due to schedule conflicts with the owner of the car I didn’t get to the paint yet. I have attached several pics. They are of the car when we first pulled it out.
Pic #1 is after wash and chrome done.
In pic #3 you can see the swirl marks and other defects.
The paint has a great gloss to it for the age. Fortunately he had it waxed before it was stored 20 years ago. The initial plan was to follow your article about putting Glaze#7 on first then trying the Menzerna 3 in 1.
The paint doesn’t look dried out.
Do you think I can proceed as we spoke of with the Menzerna 3 in 1?
I am going to test a section and see the results.
Here is what I was considering. Step 1 3 in 1, Step 2 Glaze, Step 3 either pure Carnauba wax or one blended with polymers.
I follow your advice to the letter usually.
So I really appreciate your input. The swirls are numerous, but I want to be as gentle as possible with this.
Thanks,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I enjoyed talking to you also about this project. I owned a 1949 Cadillac some year ago so I'm very familiar with the body styles of these cars.
The good news is Cadillac used GREAT single stage paint back then and it should shine up like a brand new car.
I'd do the following, since you've already washed it,
Step 1: Clay the paint to remove bonded contaminants, do the Baggie Test and tell me what you find.
If you're not sure how to do the baggie test, here's how-to article.
The Baggie Test as seen on Competition Ready TV with AJ and Mike Phillips
Step 2: Machine apply the Menzerna 3-in-1. This is a great one-step cleaner/wax and it will or should remove a lot of the swirls. I'd test out a simple "polishing" pad first as old single stage paint tends to be dry, brittle and also soft. If a polishing pad isn't removing the swirls and scratches very well you can then test out a foam "cutting" pad.
In order of aggressiveness from most aggressive to least aggressive,
Comment: I forget if you have a polisher and if you do what type? You really want to stay safe on paint like this and I would recommend a simple orbital polisher like the Griot's Garage 6" DA Orbital Polishers. Here's an article that goes over this tool, the backing plates and pads for it. There's also a video that shows how to use a simple orbital polisher to compound, polish and wax. By the way, it also shows how to do the baggie test and how to use detailing clay to remove contaminants off the paint.
Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips
Step 3: After you buff out the paint using the Menzerna 3-in-1 cleaner/wax, then machine apply or hand apply an application of the #7. At this point in the game it's not to remove oxidation as that will already be over, this is to gorge the pigments with the TS oils or Trade Secret Oils found in the Meguiar's #7 since the time cars were invented and then car paint was invented. I'd suggest applying to a panel at a time and then remove. #7 is very oily, don't let it dry and wipe it off immediately using either clean microfiber towels or even better, soft well worn cotton terry cloth. I will usually cut up old bath towels, cut off the edging and use terry cloth as the stoutness of the nap or "loop of fiber" helps to slice into the oily film of #7 and break it up to make it easier to remove.
NOTE: When wiping off the #7 you don't have to remove it 100%, just aim to get most it off. If you still see streaks or smears, no big deal, they'll come off with the wax.
Step 4: Apply a traditional Carnauba Finishing Wax. The word finishing means non-cleaning. Another term for a non-cleaning wax would be a show car wax. The Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax is an excellent choice for cars like this after this type of process. Remember to follow directions for whatever wax you use. If the directions say to wipe-on and then wipe-off, the do it. If they say to allow the wax to dry to a haze or dry such and such minutes, then do it. The chemist provides the writer with the technical information for any pro quality products and the chemist knows what they are talking about.
MOST IMPORTANT: All the way through the process and especially for wiping off the wax, be sure to inspect your towels before "touching" the paint with them. If you're unsure, here's an article with a video, directions and pictures.
How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars
Step 5: Stand back and admire the results. Take the car for a spin and show it off. Invite the neighbors over for a barbecue and feature the car in the driveway.
Most of all have fun.
I've been typing the below for years, I'm actually the only guy that shares this "idea" on the net....
The opportunity to restore the original single stage paint on a classic car is becoming more and more rare. So enjoy it when you can.
And to put things in context, after you restore the original paint on this 1950 Cadillac there will be ONE LESS car in the world, with single stage paint on it, to restore.
Hope the above helps, feel free to e-mail me any "process pictures" and "after pictures" and I'll share them in this thread to inspire others.
Anytime I get questions via e-mail, a PM or a FB message I prefer to invest my typing time where
A: It's easier for me to share links, pictures and videos.
B: More people can read and thus benefit from the information. (no just one set of eyeballs)
So I get an e-mail asking,
Hi Mike, I enjoyed speaking with you on the phone last week about the all original 1950 Cadillac.
I have worked on the chrome and got it straight as can be. I spent about 4 hours just on that.
Due to schedule conflicts with the owner of the car I didn’t get to the paint yet. I have attached several pics. They are of the car when we first pulled it out.
Pic #1 is after wash and chrome done.
In pic #3 you can see the swirl marks and other defects.
The paint has a great gloss to it for the age. Fortunately he had it waxed before it was stored 20 years ago. The initial plan was to follow your article about putting Glaze#7 on first then trying the Menzerna 3 in 1.
The paint doesn’t look dried out.
Do you think I can proceed as we spoke of with the Menzerna 3 in 1?
I am going to test a section and see the results.
Here is what I was considering. Step 1 3 in 1, Step 2 Glaze, Step 3 either pure Carnauba wax or one blended with polymers.
I follow your advice to the letter usually.
So I really appreciate your input. The swirls are numerous, but I want to be as gentle as possible with this.
Thanks,
Tom
Hi Tom,
I enjoyed talking to you also about this project. I owned a 1949 Cadillac some year ago so I'm very familiar with the body styles of these cars.
The good news is Cadillac used GREAT single stage paint back then and it should shine up like a brand new car.
I'd do the following, since you've already washed it,
Step 1: Clay the paint to remove bonded contaminants, do the Baggie Test and tell me what you find.
If you're not sure how to do the baggie test, here's how-to article.
The Baggie Test as seen on Competition Ready TV with AJ and Mike Phillips
Step 2: Machine apply the Menzerna 3-in-1. This is a great one-step cleaner/wax and it will or should remove a lot of the swirls. I'd test out a simple "polishing" pad first as old single stage paint tends to be dry, brittle and also soft. If a polishing pad isn't removing the swirls and scratches very well you can then test out a foam "cutting" pad.
In order of aggressiveness from most aggressive to least aggressive,
- Foam cutting pads
- Foam polishing pads
- Foam finishing pads
- Foam waxing pads
Comment: I forget if you have a polisher and if you do what type? You really want to stay safe on paint like this and I would recommend a simple orbital polisher like the Griot's Garage 6" DA Orbital Polishers. Here's an article that goes over this tool, the backing plates and pads for it. There's also a video that shows how to use a simple orbital polisher to compound, polish and wax. By the way, it also shows how to do the baggie test and how to use detailing clay to remove contaminants off the paint.
Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips
Step 3: After you buff out the paint using the Menzerna 3-in-1 cleaner/wax, then machine apply or hand apply an application of the #7. At this point in the game it's not to remove oxidation as that will already be over, this is to gorge the pigments with the TS oils or Trade Secret Oils found in the Meguiar's #7 since the time cars were invented and then car paint was invented. I'd suggest applying to a panel at a time and then remove. #7 is very oily, don't let it dry and wipe it off immediately using either clean microfiber towels or even better, soft well worn cotton terry cloth. I will usually cut up old bath towels, cut off the edging and use terry cloth as the stoutness of the nap or "loop of fiber" helps to slice into the oily film of #7 and break it up to make it easier to remove.
NOTE: When wiping off the #7 you don't have to remove it 100%, just aim to get most it off. If you still see streaks or smears, no big deal, they'll come off with the wax.
Step 4: Apply a traditional Carnauba Finishing Wax. The word finishing means non-cleaning. Another term for a non-cleaning wax would be a show car wax. The Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax is an excellent choice for cars like this after this type of process. Remember to follow directions for whatever wax you use. If the directions say to wipe-on and then wipe-off, the do it. If they say to allow the wax to dry to a haze or dry such and such minutes, then do it. The chemist provides the writer with the technical information for any pro quality products and the chemist knows what they are talking about.
MOST IMPORTANT: All the way through the process and especially for wiping off the wax, be sure to inspect your towels before "touching" the paint with them. If you're unsure, here's an article with a video, directions and pictures.
How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars
Step 5: Stand back and admire the results. Take the car for a spin and show it off. Invite the neighbors over for a barbecue and feature the car in the driveway.
Most of all have fun.
I've been typing the below for years, I'm actually the only guy that shares this "idea" on the net....
The opportunity to restore the original single stage paint on a classic car is becoming more and more rare. So enjoy it when you can.
And to put things in context, after you restore the original paint on this 1950 Cadillac there will be ONE LESS car in the world, with single stage paint on it, to restore.
Hope the above helps, feel free to e-mail me any "process pictures" and "after pictures" and I'll share them in this thread to inspire others.
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