How do you clean up rotted rubber window trim?

N

natt2000

New member
Joined
Nov 15, 2012
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Hello, I have a 97 prelude, and the rubber window moulding on the rear windows looks spotty, kind of like its rotted. Do you have any advice as to how to take care of it?

20121115_171138.jpg

20121115_171138.jpg

20121115_171233.jpg

20121115_171219.jpg

20121115_171219.jpg

20121115_171128.jpg
 
I've used Klasse AIO, DG 105/501, or a fine finishing polishing, all by hand with good results. I suppose you could wash them then wipe with an APC first and see where that gets you, and then go from there.
 
It's hard to tell with the flash--is that black rubber? Or is it silver anodize?

If it's black rubber, I agree with RZJ, a chemical cleaner like KAIO or DG501 is going to help that out a lot.
 
It is black rubber. I've tried wet sanding and using back to black, and it helped some but the rot came back. I have some KAIO in my garage. How would you recommend using it? The rubber isn't just discolored, it's raised and rough. ill get some daytime pictures in a few hours.
 
If you wet sanded, that original surface is gone, I don't think the prognosis is very good.
 
I'd like to know as well. I posted a thread about this last week and the only thing suggested to me was bleach.
 
KillaCam said:
I'd like to know as well. I posted a thread about this last week and the only thing suggested to me was bleach.
Click to expand...

Bleach? Unfortunately the damage to plastic/rubber trim is usually permanent (although there are many new products which can help faded plastic trim). I don't think wet sanding or bleaching rubber is an answer to make it look better.
 
Well apparently it will kill whatever is growing on there if it is mold is what I was advised.
 
KillaCam said:
Well apparently it will kill whatever is growing on there if it is mold is what I was advised.
Click to expand...

That's probably true, won't do much good for the rubber though. I think I'd use TSP before I'd use bleach...although I doubt I'd use that either. Some APC, and then something like KAIO or DG501, microfiber for both, presuming we're talking about shiny rubber trim.
 
I have a similar problem (as do a lot of other owners, apparently) with the rear window trim on my '05 Tacoma. Very blotchy, and it looks more like some fungus/mold growth more than sun damage.

Test a small spot with some disinfectant other than bleach (just the idea of bleach on something you want to blacken: (?). Maybe pine-sol, or borax. This would just be to kill any living organism that would have caused it, before going and treating further.

Then, I think we only have two types of options, since disinfecting alone will not remove the gunge, only de-activate (kill) any living stuff that is causing the staining:

1. Hope you have killed any living gunge in there, then dye it with some product like Forever Black, which may not be the right one, since it can streak on smooth surfaces where it cannot get a hold into the material; or,

2. Do some sort of scrubbing restorative treatment with the right product, where you actually rub/buff off old, stained or oxidized material to get back to an original type finish. I was looking at a not-AG product that makes great claims in this area, called Acrylic Werks. I have no experience with this stuff, I only saw it used on youtube vids on some of the black trim areas that I need to address: tiger-striped black trim on a Honda CRV, and faded trim on an old BMW on the window columns. It looks like there is a lot of elbow grease with a terry towel involved, but this sort of aggressive approach would intuitively make more sense to me than a wipe on/wipe off approach. I know how deep inside the trim this gunge appears to sit, so wipe on/wipe off surface treatment is not an approach I hold much faith in.

On the other hand, maybe the Acrylic Werks is total snake oil. It's a $30 gamble.
 
wikkid said:
I have a similar problem (as do a lot of other owners, apparently) with the rear window trim on my '05 Tacoma. Very blotchy, and it looks more like some fungus/mold growth more than sun damage.

Test a small spot with some disinfectant other than bleach (just the idea of bleach on something you want to blacken: (?). Maybe pine-sol, or borax. This would just be to kill any living organism that would have caused it, before going and treating further.

Then, I think we only have two types of options, since disinfecting alone will not remove the gunge, only de-activate (kill) any living stuff that is causing the staining:

I know how deep inside the trim this gunge appears to sit, so wipe on/wipe off surface treatment is not an approach I hold much faith in.
Click to expand...

Yes, if it is a fungus, it may actually be "feeding" on the rubber, which is why it is "deep" and hard to get rid of. As I have noted in previous posts, and you mention above, bleach would seem to be a counterintuitive approach on a surface that is black and we want to keep black; they sell stuff at Home Depot like Mold Control which is a non-bleach mold killer...not sure if that would be effective in this application.

Anyway, I still stand by my KAIO/DG501 recommendations.
 
I really don't know if KAIO is a similar formula as the AW - maybe the results would be the same. I will be experimenting to try to be rid of the ugly blotches, so let's keep this going, maybe until we have some results to share. I can't believe it's not discussed more frequently, given that I'm sure our two cars are not the only two to suffer from this. And KAIO has nothing but great reviews overall, and would be a good product to have on hand for other issues as well.
 
I'm going into territory I'm not an expert in, but I seriously doubt this is a mold or fungus. I have it on a Buick, Volvo and Toyota Highlander here in south Florida that I have yet to address, but I'm pretty sure it's rubber degradation due to sun, heat and moisture with airborne chemicals, the same combination that that eats up the clear coat on neglected cars down here, it just the rubber reacts differently.
My 01 BMW was a CA car, and although older than the Buick and Toyota only has minor fading of the rubber, even though I am certain the car was neglected by it's previous owner, they don't have the moisture in CA we have here in FL.
As deep as the "scabbing" is,my guess is it's going to have to be sanded out, no way a wipe on, wipe off is going to clear it. It's also going to leave pitting, much like rust.
I do look forward to anyone who's had success, even if it's just at cleaning and preventing it from continuing.
I put Forever Black, and followed up a couple of weeks later with a Mother's product on mine, but it still looks bad.
 
I just attempted to fix my rubber trim problem on my car this weekend that looks to be rotted. I cleaned the area with a stiff brush and apc 4:1 mixture. I did a few applications of this to make sure it was really clean. Then I applied Duragloss 531 protectant, let it dry, then added another coat all with a foam applicator. After the second coat dried I buffed off the excess with a microfiber towel and it had an awesome sheen to it and the rubber looks 100% better than it did before.

It darkened the rubber and made it look way smoother. I don't have any before pictures but I could take some afters if anyone wanted to see them.
 
Wow, that's great to hear, thanks for the help. Time to make a couple of purchases and do a little scrubbing.
I'll try and get some before and after pics when I do mine.
 
My 2006 Highlander had the same condition after 4 years in Central Florida sun. The black trim coating is more of a soft plastic than rubber and is about 1/64"-1/32" thick over chrome or stainless steel. I agree with DEADFI5H that it's caused by the sun rather than an organic reaction. I approached the problem with solvents after cleaners failed, starting with naptha (Coleman Fuel), lacquer thinner, and finally found that acetone dissolves the grungy top layer of the coating. You must use a cotton cloth such as a towel - no synthetic or paper rags. Use heavy pressure on a small area at a time. A stiff tooth brush works well to start (be sure the acetone doesn't dissolve the bristles). When you get all the scabs off give the entire trim a light wet wipe with acetone to smooth out any streaks. I then polished hard with "Finish 2001". "Back-to-Black" did not work. I don't know how long it will last but I suspect that a protective polish is critical and probably needs to be applied regularly.

Be careful with acetone around the car finish. I first cleaned the car so I wouldn't scratch the paint wiping off solvent. The acetone didn't affect MY clear coat but I was careful not to drip it down the paint. Have a clean-up rag ready and try it someplace safe before getting it on your finish. Duct tape works to mask off the trim.

Being new to the list I'm not familiar with the products KillaCam used but it sounds safer than my method. Please let me know what a 4:1 mixture of apc is. I've only done one side of the car and I'd like to do a comparison.
 
APC = all purpose cleaner. If you use search function for abbreviations or "acronyms" you will find a long list used here that puts wtf omg lol to shame :- )
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top