How do you properly remove nano ceramic coating?

[Brodizzle83]

I applied one coat of the Duragloss Enviroshield nano ceramic coating last November and I'm wanting to remove it to do a better job at paint correction on my '13 Dodge Dart. I have read up on what little info I have found and it sounds like the only way to remove nano ceramic coating from a vehicle is with machine polishing.

Now can I use a compound with a dual-action polisher like my gen.1 Griots Garage machine to remove the coating or does it have to be with a high-speed polisher?

Also, how agressive does the compound have to be to polish through the coating, and how do you know when you've gone through it? Just picked up a bottle of Griots Complete Compound but not sure its aggressive enough.

One more question. I was told when doing paint correction to spray the car down with IronX, then clay, then start the paint correction. With the coating removal thrown in, where would I fit the IronX into the process? Before the coating removal? Or directly after the coating removal?

Thanks for any and all info!

 

[GSKR]

The polishing alone will remove the coating.wash then iron x and clay.and start the polishing process.anyone looking for a really good stripper D120 straight will remove any wax or sealant heck maybe a coating super strong and safe way more effective than Ipa.

 

[Paul A.]

Taking a machine to it should remove the coating for you. The way i look at it is to correct for the level of defects you are trying to remove vs. simply trying to remove the coating. When you see the paint defects going away so is your coating.

There was a thread recently that got me thinking too...

With a coating, when to apply Iron X. The OP postulates the coating may inhibit access to the metallic debris Iron X wants to eat...effectively sealing them under and locking them (at least some) under the coating and prohibiting the full effect of Iron X. Logically it appealed to me and he agreed to do a test on his vehicle. Applying Iron X to a coated panel before removal and then applying Iron X to a panel after the coating was removed via machining. A simple look/see comparison of the amount of purple coloring on both sides might indicate whether the coating is protecting access to metal slivers in the paint. Just a thought...

 

[Ebg18t]

You can just polish it off.

 

[Paul A.]

Plus the fact that Iron X, for me, is always a non marring effort i.e. i'm not worried about scratching the surface as i am with claying. I'm going to do my own test as well just to see if there is a difference in switching my Iron X to after machining.

 

[cardaddy]

As has been said... a simple polishing will remove your coating.

Not sure what you mean by "high-speed polisher" versus your "dual-action". Guessing you're talking about a rotary? :dunno: You DO NOT need a rotary to remove the Duragloss coating.

Something as light as a LC white pad and Megs Ultimate Compound (would the heaviest) or maybe Megs 205, or even move to a middle of the road polish like say Menzerna 2500, WG Uber, HD-3D Adapt would easily remove it.

Being as it's had a coating on it..... I don't think you'd really need IRON-X again. The coating should have been protecting it from embedded particles no longer than it's been on there. Of course you can always do it, just to be safe, but you might not see any serious "bleeding" this time around.

That of course is assuming that you're talking about IRON-X *after* washing and buffing. Of course it you put it on BEFORE washing you should get the benefit because whatever fallout is on there is sitting *on top* of the coating.

All this of course is along the line of thinking that you actually DID do the IRON-X treatment before you put the coating on the first time. If you didn't... then by all means you should do it now!

 

[Jowillie]

Are you going to put the Enviroshield back on when you finish prep?

 

[Brodizzle83]

Thanks for the replies everyone!
So just to get this straight, if I use my Griots Garage random orbital/DA buffer with Meguiars Ultimate Compound (just bought a brand new bottle of that stufff too), that should remove the coating no problem? If so, fantastic!

Before I applied the coati,g the first time, I just clayed it, polished and applied the Enviroshield coating. I didnt know about IronX until after.

And no, I think I am going to try another coating system this time. I'm going to so my research and see what I can come up with.

 

[zx10r Elle]

Mr Brodizzle83,

'In My Opinion' your choice of polishes is too aggressive, Ultimate Compound or Complete Compound on a barely 3 year old paint system that has already been addressed and protected in its life seems drastic and unnecessary to me.

The other replies you received are from detailers I can guarantee have more experience and knowledge but I just cant get past this sense of perplexion, especially since my vehicle is also a 2013 and I have no intentions of ever using a compound on its paint system over the course of its service life.

If I may I would like to offer an alternate ideology/philosophy if for no other reason than my own potential edification from subsequent responses of those more seasoned.


-If possible, personally I would attempt to forget there was any coating on the paint system to begin with and just 'see' the swirls, scratches, whatnot and begin there with the least aggressive approach to level the paint to as close to perfection as you desire.

-As the moment you apply any abrasive to the paint system in any meaningful manner the coating will have been compromised, especially if you are removing imperfections.

-Just because it has the 'term' Ceramic in the nomenclature doesnt mean its an actual ceramic. Remember its just a thin chemical film.


1) Perform a thorough and comprehensive wash to remove surface particulates such as dirt, dust, grime, road film etc.

2) Perform claying routine to remove more tenacious contaminants the wash routine was unable to dislodge.

3) Apply Iron-x as directed and allow it to perform its function. ( it should dissolve below surface ferrous contamination claying does not access )

4) Perform another wash. Personally I wouldnt want any clay or iron-x residues intermixing or interfering with the polishing chemistry stage.

-At this point the paint system should be 'virgin territory' ready for your polishing session beginning with least aggressive process first. After that you'll just have to choose which form of protection you wish to employ.


Note: I recently polished out my 2013 using hand applied Optimum Polish II and Finish Polish, neither of which are anywhere near as aggressive as Ultimate Polish or Complete Polish.


Steve