How do you remove opticoat 2.0 i screwed up the application :(

unclestu

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How do I remove Opti Coat 2.0 from my car?What recommendations can you all provide to best apply the product to a white car?It seems as though I screwed up in my application and the product didn't take properly to the hood of my white 2011 Cady CTS wagon. I think that I did a very thorough prep prior to application.The car was a 2011 white Cady CTS wagon with about 500 miles. I never waxed the car since purchase in July as I was planning on doing the Opti Coat.This was the prep that I did. Please let me know if it was sufficient.Washed/dried carStripped the paint with Griots garage Paint Prep (I used two 35oz bottles on the car justo make sure)After the Griots Paint Prep the car was thoroughly rinsed and dried.I than applied a full bottle of Iron X and again after the application the car was again thoroughly rinsed and dried.As this was a new car that was never waxed or sealed other than the minimal watered down spray on detailer that the dealership used in it's new car prep dept. I would think that by this point the paint would be free of any prior product contamination. However I did an aprox. 20% IPA wipe down as well prior to the application of the Opti Coat 2.0I did the application in the shade on on my driveway as there was no wind. I followed the instructions and applied the product very sparingly (total used on the car under 8m) with the foam applicator provided with the kit. The car being white in color made it very difficult to even see the product on the paint. It seems as though the only area that did not turn out well was the hood as I could see areas that evidently must have had some high spots that did not get leveled out before the product cured.Again what method do I use to remove the coating from the hood?What wold be the best method to use for applying to a white car?Just currious would having used two bottles of Griots Paint Prep and the Iron X to strip the paint have been addequate to strip the paint on a brand new car?I will be waiting for any help you all can provide as I have another new Cady waiting to be done as well. At this point I am not sure if I want to do the Opti Coat 2.0 on the CTS V coupe or just go with the old school tried and true Wolfgang dgps and Fuzion combo.Thanks for all of your helpStu
 
You will need to use a polish/compound with mechanical abrasives to remoce OC. Obviously start with the least aggressive method. As far as application, you can wipe the area with a MF about 30-45 seconds after application to remove high spots with no ill effects IME. Keep you work areas small( I usually work no bigger than a 16 X 16 inch section) and inspect each section for high spots.
 
polishing ... something like 105 should work.
 
Thanks for the reply Jim,I unserstand that I can't remove the Opti Coat by Chemical means and it will have to be abrraded off. I was hoping for more specific information as to what product to use with my Flex 3401 Sorry if I was not clear.Stu
 
Take it through the swirl-a-thon for 36 times in a row

From what I have read that will not remove the Opti Coat and I only need to do the hood over again. I know that you really must have put a lot of effort into your reply and even though the information that you provided is totally worthless it was a bit funny LOL Thank youBut what ever you do don't quit your day job :)
 
Thanks for the reply Jim,I unserstand that I can't remove the Opti Coat by Chemical means and it will have to be abrraded off. I was hoping for more specific information as to what product to use with my Flex 3401 Sorry if I was not clear.Stu


I'm Sorry. I would try the WG TSR you mentioned first, but I hve a feeling that may not totally work. Megs 105(as Scott has mentioned) on a orange LC pad should do the trick. Or you can find Megs Ultimate compound locally which is pretty close to the cut of 105.
 
From what I have read that will not remove the Opti Coat and I only need to do the hood over again. I know that you really must have put a lot of effort into your reply and even though the information that you provided is totally worthless it was a bit funny LOL Thank youBut what ever you do don't quit your day job :)

I quit my day job 8 years ago. Glad I was able to make you smile :)
 
I quit my day job 8 years ago. Glad I was able to make you smile :)

I am glad you made me smile also. Now the dogs can come out of their hiding places. They knew that I was one unhappy puppy when I saw that hood and theyh have been hiding from me ever since. LOL :)Stu
 
Hi Stu,

You may not need to remove the coating, but just to level it. Try a finishing polish or an AIO first to see if that fixes the area, then check for tight beading and hydrophobic properties to see if it's still there. If you do find that some areas need reapplication, just polish with a medium polish like Polish II or M205, IPA wipedown, and recoat. Just scuffing with a polish should be enough to allow a second coat to stick. The only reason you'd need to completely remove it with compounding is if you just didn't want it on there anymore. That's not really necessary just for a repair/recoating.
 
I have yet to have to remove Opti-Coat so I am glad I came across this thread.

As far applying it on white paint or any paint for that matter what I do is to just forget about trying to be so sparing with it and apply more to the applicator than what Optimum recommends. I look over the car and devise a plan of attack first. I ask myself a few questions.

1. What panels have a gap or seam around the entire panel that will enable me to apply Opti-Coat to that panel and not rub the applicator against it while applying it to another panel later? If such a panel exists I do this panel first, IF it isn't in a location that I may accidentally rub any part of my body against during the application to another panel.

2. Where shall I begin my application and and will I be able to reach my beginning point from the other side when I run over there to apply the product to the other side from the other side of the vehicle? If not then I am sure to get a ladder before I begin the application instead of going to look for one in the middle of the rush of applying the Opti-Coat.

I have a rather large belly so I have to make that part of the plan and start at the top and work my way down to the bottom of the car so my belly doesn't smudge things up.

I try to do the roof first then the hood then the trunk lid then both front fenders and around the front bumper and grille. Next I decide if I'm going to be doing the side glass or not. If so I do the glass and all surrounding rubber and or chrome trim, then do the side mirror housings before moving down to do the doors. After the doors I move onto the rear quarters.

If there is no seam to separate the rear quarters from the part of the roof that the doors close onto, at this time I open the doors and do the rear quarter and continue up the pillar and around where the doors close at the top. finally I move onto the rear bumper and tail lights.

Earlier I mentioned not being so sparing with the product. I apply more product to the applicator because it helps to allow the applicator to glide easier across the paint and also ensures that I am getting full coverage with the product.

Starting with the roof with a clean microfiber towel in my back pocket, I start applying the opti-coat in the center of the roof about ten inches from the middle of the car. I find that short side to side strokes of the applicator is easier than trying to move the applicator in long sweeping strokes. I do a strip from the center of the roof to the front stopping at the windshield rubber seal, (I apply on the seal) then I go from my starting point in the middle of the roof and work toward the rear glass. I work in roughly ten inch applicator strokes moving the applicator from the center of the roof toward the side where the doors are (against the direction that the air flows across the car).

Next I apply another strip of the product from the rear glass to the front glass as far as my arm can reach toward the center of the roof making sure that I am overlapping the first strip that I did by a few inches. Then I start from the edge of the roof closest to the doors and work in the same direction until I reach the first strip of product that I laid down. So far all I have done is side to side strokes of the applicator on one half of the roof.

Now I will start near the windshield and apply the Opti-Coat in the direction that the air travels across the roof (front to back) in ten inch applicator strokes going over the entire half of the roof that I have already applied the Opti-Coat to but now i am moving the applicator in the opposite direction. This ensures total coverage and takes about 8 minutes in total.

The last thing I do before running over to the other side of the car to apply to the other side of the roof is to grab the rag from my back pocket and lightly buff off the wet spots and/or the haze marks. On white paint you won't see them but they are there, trust me on this. I lightly buff that half of the roof in side to side direction then from front to back and quickly run to the other side of the roof Apply more Opti-Coat to my applicator and repeat the same exact steps ensuring that I do not apply the Opti-Coat farther out on the roof than what I can reach with my towel to lightly buff off the haze and wet spots.

The roof is the hardest panel to do IMO. and once it's done I simply repeat this procedure on all other panels applying the Opti-Coat in two different directions then lightly buff down the haze and wet areas with the towel in my back pocket.

The important thing is to rely more on your memory than on your eyesight and remember what fender you started at because by the time you get around the car and back to that fender the Opti-Coat will have begun to cure and if you apply or buff onto that panel after it has begun to cure you will likely have a smudgy mess to buff off and redo.


You really have to hustle to get the Opti-Coat applied and buffed down if you want the best results. Click the link below to see the results of my process.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/41954-polished-my-daily-driver-last-time.html

I hope this helps, TD
 
Thank you so much. This is the information that i wish I had before I started. You are so correct You really need to think out a plan of attack figureing in all of the potential pit falls. I didn't think the job through before I started. I will know better in the future. I know what you are saying about a white car. It is funny the very first panel that I did was the hood and that was the panel that has the problem. After I saw that I was unable to see the product I just assumed that it will need to be leveled off just as you said I also lightly went over all of the other panels that I did right after I applied the Opti to them. I did not do that on the hood and that is ther area with the problem now or so I hope. I did look at the car in different light conditions and so far it still seems to only be the hood that has a problem. Thanks again for all the good infoStu
I have yet to have to remove Opti-Coat so I am glad I came across this thread.

As far applying it on white paint or any paint for that matter what I do is to just forget about trying to be so sparing with it and apply more to the applicator than what Optimum recommends. I look over the car and devise a plan of attack first. I ask myself a few questions.

1. What panels have a gap or seam around the entire panel that will enable me to apply Opti-Coat to that panel and not rub the applicator against it while applying it to another panel later? If such a panel exists I do this panel first, IF it isn't in a location that I may accidentally rub any part of my body against during the application to another panel.

2. Where shall I begin my application and and will I be able to reach my beginning point from the other side when I run over there to apply the product to the other side from the other side of the vehicle? If not then I am sure to get a ladder before I begin the application instead of going to look for one in the middle of the rush of applying the Opti-Coat.

I have a rather large belly so I have to make that part of the plan and start at the top and work my way down to the bottom of the car so my belly doesn't smudge things up.

I try to do the roof first then the hood then the trunk lid then both front fenders and around the front bumper and grille. Next I decide if I'm going to be doing the side glass or not. If so I do the glass and all surrounding rubber and or chrome trim, then do the side mirror housings before moving down to do the doors. After the doors I move onto the rear quarters.

If there is no seam to separate the rear quarters from the part of the roof that the doors close onto, at this time I open the doors and do the rear quarter and continue up the pillar and around where the doors close at the top. finally I move onto the rear bumper and tail lights.

Earlier I mentioned not being so sparing with the product. I apply more product to the applicator because it helps to allow the applicator to glide easier across the paint and also ensures that I am getting full coverage with the product.

Starting with the roof with a clean microfiber towel in my back pocket, I start applying the opti-coat in the center of the roof about ten inches from the middle of the car. I find that short side to side strokes of the applicator is easier than trying to move the applicator in long sweeping strokes. I do a strip from the center of the roof to the front stopping at the windshield rubber seal, (I apply on the seal) then I go from my starting point in the middle of the roof and work toward the rear glass. I work in roughly ten inch applicator strokes moving the applicator from the center of the roof toward the side where the doors are (against the direction that the air flows across the car).

Next I apply another strip of the product from the rear glass to the front glass as far as my arm can reach toward the center of the roof making sure that I am overlapping the first strip that I did by a few inches. Then I start from the edge of the roof closest to the doors and work in the same direction until I reach the first strip of product that I laid down. So far all I have done is side to side strokes of the applicator on one half of the roof.

Now I will start near the windshield and apply the Opti-Coat in the direction that the air travels across the roof (front to back) in ten inch applicator strokes going over the entire half of the roof that I have already applied the Opti-Coat to but now i am moving the applicator in the opposite direction. This ensures total coverage and takes about 8 minutes in total.

The last thing I do before running over to the other side of the car to apply to the other side of the roof is to grab the rag from my back pocket and lightly buff off the wet spots and/or the haze marks. On white paint you won't see them but they are there, trust me on this. I lightly buff that half of the roof in side to side direction then from front to back and quickly run to the other side of the roof Apply more Opti-Coat to my applicator and repeat the same exact steps ensuring that I do not apply the Opti-Coat farther out on the roof than what I can reach with my towel to lightly buff off the haze and wet spots.

The roof is the hardest panel to do IMO. and once it's done I simply repeat this procedure on all other panels applying the Opti-Coat in two different directions then lightly buff down the haze and wet areas with the towel in my back pocket.

The important thing is to rely more on your memory than on your eyesight and remember what fender you started at because by the time you get around the car and back to that fender the Opti-Coat will have begun to cure and if you apply or buff onto that panel after it has begun to cure you will likely have a smudgy mess to buff off and redo.


You really have to hustle to get the Opti-Coat applied and buffed down if you want the best results. Click the link below to see the results of my process.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/41954-polished-my-daily-driver-last-time.html

I hope this helps, TD
 
Hi Stu,

You may not need to remove the coating, but just to level it. Try a finishing polish or an AIO first to see if that fixes the area, then check for tight beading and hydrophobic properties to see if it's still there. If you do find that some areas need reapplication, just polish with a medium polish like Polish II or M205, IPA wipedown, and recoat. Just scuffing with a polish should be enough to allow a second coat to stick. The only reason you'd need to completely remove it with compounding is if you just didn't want it on there anymore. That's not really necessary just for a repair/recoating.

Thats good to know Chris,I will try a finishing polish or worst case scuff it up a bit as you mentioned and than re apply to the effected area. In the future i think I will lightly go over each area that I do as if there are high spotsand i will apply a little more product to the pad so that it glides accross the paint easier.Thanks againStu
 
Uncle Stu, your WG TSR will remove it but like Chris said that may not be needed. Looks like you have lots of great advice here.
 
Opti Coat or Opti Seal on white is a bit of a challenge. I apply in the evening with the garage lights off and use halogens. If I have to apply during the day and ambient light is a factor I usually have the applicator pad in one hand and the Brinkmann in the other.

IME, I tend to use too much product with the yellow foam pads. MF works nice but seems to soak up the product thus wasting it. I tried the method Anthony Orosco posted numerous places using a foam pad inside a nitrile glove wrapped with a blue Scott shop towel and found it worked great! One advantage to the towel method is you can actually see dampness of the product on it and don't tend to overapply the product.

TL
 
On my first application I had a few high spots & streaks that came out beautifully with a bit of Poli-Seal.
 
stu, i did wifes srx first and it does require a plan. agree totally with tusc. dave put a little more on the pad to slide easier and i find that i now use a microfiber as the last wipe to ensure no spots. this really helps. did the cts v with diamond black paint and it came out great. at our ages a plan of attack is a necessity not a suggestion,.
 
I did not do that on the hood and that is ther area with the problem now or so I hope.

For a first time user it seems to be always the first panel that they screw up, probably because the pad does not as that point have enough product on it. As you move to other panels and add more product you then do have enough product on the pad, so you are less likely to end up with high spots or stains as I prefer to call them.

However I would query whether you actually need to remove and start again. How bad are the high spots? - do they look like stains in the paint? If they look like stains it is the result of not buffing off with an MF once the Opti-Coat has flashed. That flashing can sometimes be hard to see happening. If it dries like that then you will end up with a stain at that point.

Those stains can be very easily removed with something as mild as Poli-Seal on a red pad. In fact when I asked months ago it was Dr. G who suggested Poli-Seal to remove them.
It will remove them without compromising the Opti-Coat.

Obviously over time, an Opti-Coat'ed vehicle is going to need maintenance and Poli-Seal on a soft pad is ideal for that purpose. So if you are going to use it in the future, no reason why you shouldn't now.

If the above doesn't appeal then by all means remove it, but you certainly don't need to use something as aggressive as M105. As Chris said, just use something like 85RD, M205, or Optimum's Polish II, anything that is mild. Do your cleaning routine as before (but it sounded like overkill) and reapply the Opti-Coat.

I've not used Opti-Coat for quite some time as I swapped to Opti-Guard, but the technique is exactly the same for both products.
 
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