How long does a detail last?

[BugZero]

I'm considering either having someone detail my Beetle to remove some light swirls, or jumping in with both feet and putting together the tools and materials to do it myself.

That being said, how long should I expect my detail work to last before it needs to be done again?

The clear coat is only so thick. If this is something that needs to be done once every six months or so, how long am I looking at before I need to pay for a respray?

Sorry for the really newbie questions.

 

[Nappers]

I'm considering either having someone detail my Beetle to remove some light swirls, or jumping in with both feet and putting together the tools and materials to do it myself.

Nothing says satisfaction than doing your car yourself.....If you don't know how to use products and what not, then cruise the site and get some information in ya before you do jump in.

Check these out:

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That being said, how long should I expect my detail work to last before it needs to be done again?

It all depends on how you maintain it! If you do a full detail and remove the blemishes and turn around and run it through a car wash or use dawn soap and a wash cloth, it'll not last for sure. The 5th step of the 5 step plan is maintain. Using proper washing soaps (there are a lot sold on AG), using proper washing equipment (mitts, proper brushes etc), two bucket system (one for rinse, one for wash) with grit guards so the dirt from the mitt/brush doesn't get back on your paint......I try to do my cars before winter and before summer and wax inbetween or quick spray wax after a washing to boost the wax.....

The clear coat is only so thick. If this is something that needs to be done once every six months or so, how long am I looking at before I need to pay for a respray?

Proper use of products, pad choice (machine use) will minimize removing of paint. If you use a strong compound a lot, you'll get rid of the clear coat faster. Once you have your swirls under control, you can use a less aggressive product to keep the shine. Also, it's recommended to use the least aggressive product then move up if that product doesn't work! Meaning working in one area about 12" X 12" or so and get a process dialed in then continue with the rest of the car. You don't want to grab a bottle of something and use it and not like the results after the hard work. A test area lets you see what will work then continue once your happy with the test area. It would take a little doing of wetsanding and rotary work to make your clear coat too thin and fail, which is why people are very careful and measure their paint prior to doing so! Not sayinig wetsanding and rotary is bad, people do it all the time but doing it too much or removing too much material can harm it. You more than likely have a ways before removing your clear coat and having to repaint your car unless one is careless in using power tools, products and wrong pad selection.....

Sorry for the really newbie questions.

We were all there at one time, that's what this forum is for!

 

[ryandamartini]

I'm considering either having someone detail my Beetle to remove some light swirls, or jumping in with both feet and putting together the tools and materials to do it myself.

That being said, how long should I expect my detail work to last before it needs to be done again?

The clear coat is only so thick. If this is something that needs to be done once every six months or so, how long am I looking at before I need to pay for a respray?

Sorry for the really newbie questions.

After the initial heavier polishing and sealing, you need to have good wash habits. For instance, my Mom's Volvo XC-90 has been washed and dried correctly since it was brand new, and has never had a swirl on it. I just use a finishing polish on it once a year to shine it up before I seal it.

If you use correct methods and take care of your vehicle, I would expect no more than 2 light polishings a year if you keep it waxed

 

[BugZero]

I've always been really anal about washing. Two buckets, 100% cotton towels, different towels for bumpers, top, and bottom of car.

All habits I picked up when I was running with the local F-body club when I was younger and my back was in better shape. Used Zaino products religiously back then.

Drove beaters for a long while to pay off some debt. Now that I'm in a car I enjoy again, the Wal-mart stuff is just frustrating me.

As far as measuring my paint, do you think a local shop would hassle me to check it before I get started? I'm a little leery of my hood. I had to spend some time re-aligning it when I brought the car home. Could be they just took it off to have room to work on the engine, (The thermostat is a PITA on these cars and I know it's been changed) or could be a replacement.

 

[ryandamartini]

I've always been really anal about washing. Two buckets, 100% cotton towels, different towels for bumpers, top, and bottom of car.

All habits I picked up when I was running with the local F-body club when I was younger and my back was in better shape. Used Zaino products religiously back then.

Drove beaters for a long while to pay off some debt. Now that I'm in a car I enjoy again, the Wal-mart stuff is just frustrating me.

As far as measuring my paint, do you think a local shop would hassle me to check it before I get started? I'm a little leery of my hood. I had to spend some time re-aligning it when I brought the car home. Could be they just took it off to have room to work on the engine, (The thermostat is a PITA on these cars and I know it's been changed) or could be a replacement.

I dont think you would need to bring out paint measurements. Unless your wetsanding / rotary compounding, polishing, I think you will be quite fine going over it well with a dual action.

 

[BugZero]

:thankyousign:

Building my Christmas wish list now. :dblthumb2:

 

[HHIslander]

Nothing says satisfaction than doing your car yourself.....If you don't know how to use products and what not, then cruise the site and get some information in ya before you do jump in.



We were all there at one time, that's what this forum is for!

:thankyousign:

Building my Christmas wish list now. :dblthumb2:

I have to agree with Nappers, and I think thats the decision you're going with.
There is more information on this site than you'll ever be able to read.
When I started, all I knew was wash, clay, and cheap OTC wax.
I'm not a pro now, but thats to AG, and the men and women on this
site, I can hold my own. Just stay active, read everything you can
and ask questions. If you get to something you want to know, try the search
button in the gray menu bar above, there is a really good chance that
what you are confused about has been talked about before, but if not
ask again...

Its good to have you and :welcome: to AGO!

 

[sullysdetailing]

If you take care of the car after you have it detailed and wax the car every4-6 weeks then it will last you a while.

 

[Blackthorn One]

If I had a street car I wanted to make nice, I'd first polish with a DA to remove all oxidation and some of the scratches, and then use Poorboy's Black Hole glaze to hide the rest. Then apply Wolfgang DGPS, or a durable carnauba like Dodo Supernatural or Collinite. I would put 3 coats of wax on it or 2 coats of sealant, OR 2 coats of sealant AND 2 or 3 coats of wax. If you are really careful about washing, you won't induce any more swirls, and if you keep applying a pure wax with no polish regularly, or pure sealant, the paint should be constantly protected, and never oxidize. It also should show any significant swirling for a year and a half or two years or more, with this maintenance. If the paint is thick enough and you really want it perfect, go ahead and polish them all out. As long as you keep a thick enough coating of protection on the car, it should stay that nice for years to come. You might want to get a foam gun, as well. I found the junkman's videos on youtube to be highly informative, as well, and I recommend them.