How long does a Iron-x bottle last you?

aburgeson

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I want to figure out how many vehicles i can do with a 500ml bottle of ironx. This way I can see how much it really is costing me per vehicle. For this discussion lets assume is a mid sized sedan. I know large SUVs will take more product. I also should state that I work on mostly DD cars. Any help would be appreciated as Ironx seems to be killing my budget haha
 
It's expensive to use no doubt. Keep in mind that you must generously apply it. Not too sure how many cars you can get out of a 500ml bottle. Maybe 2-3. Probably not 3
 
It's expensive to use no doubt. Keep in mind that you must generously apply it. Not too sure how many cars you can get out of a 500ml bottle. Maybe 2-3. Probably not 3

I say MAYBE 2 midsize sedans or 1.5 SUV's. I'd plan on a whole bottle for a large SUV like a suburban.
 
I really don't think it has to be applied generously at all. I find light application works well for me??
 
I think BDX is a little less expensive at 16.99 for 24 oz. I tried the BDX on my wheels the other day. Great stuff.
 
I've been thinking a lot about IronX lately.

Honestly: is this even required in the process? Have there ever been any tests or even unscientific comparisons of a car that was decontaminated with IronX + clay/nanoskin and one that was decontaminated solely with claying? Even if statistically different, does the use of IronX result in any improvements in outcome (compounding, polish, wax/sealant/coating bonding)?

I mean: sure, it looks purty on white cars, and it's obviously doing something.

Worth it?
 
I use about 300-350ml on a midsize sedan even while agitating and spreading with a wash mitt. So not quite 2 cars per. bottle for me. On larger trucks and SUV's I use all 500ml.
 
I've been thinking a lot about IronX lately.

Honestly: is this even required in the process? Have there ever been any tests or even unscientific comparisons of a car that was decontaminated with IronX + clay/nanoskin and one that was decontaminated solely with claying? Even if statistically different, does the use of IronX result in any improvements in outcome (compounding, polish, wax/sealant/coating bonding)?

I mean: sure, it looks purty on white cars, and it's obviously doing something.

Worth it?

The less contaminates, the better the LSP bond. It's logic but on the other hand with beauty being in the eye of the beholder some folks just don't need a decon step.
 
What about using a wheel cleaner that turns purple bought by the gallon? For example, Wolfgang Uber Wheel Cleaner turns purple, and is $89.99 per gallon before any discounts.
 
Can't stand the smell bought it once never again.If I get a car that's really rough I will use diluted wheel acid basically same product.Down here in south fla I do about 10 acid washes per year.Sprinkler water over glass and paint. When the snow birds come these condos have a sprinkler wash to rinse the salt from the ocean .these cars are so messed up I tell people you're doing more harm than good.fyi never use any acid on windshield learned the hard way about 18 years ago.
 
I've been thinking a lot about IronX lately.

Honestly: is this even required in the process? Have there ever been any tests or even unscientific comparisons of a car that was decontaminated with IronX + clay/nanoskin and one that was decontaminated solely with claying? Even if statistically different, does the use of IronX result in any improvements in outcome (compounding, polish, wax/sealant/coating bonding)?

I mean: sure, it looks purty on white cars, and it's obviously doing something.

Worth it?

Yes.. At times i get away with just IronX and not having the need to Clay.

Keep in mind that the surface i'm about to IronX is already wet, so once i spray it on there, i let it sit for about 1 minute, and then use my mitt to spread it around the panels, then let sit again.

After a rinse of the IronX, the surface is smooth to the touch, and often times the baggie test as well. For DD vehicles, i will often do some clay as well.
 
To answer the OP's question, my 1L bottle lasts me about 5-6 cars, this including spraying the wheels as well.
 
Wear gloves and try not to breath it in. that stuff wreaks havoc on ur body
 
Make sure you Baggie Test both the horizontal and vertical panels

The physics of fallout causes the hood, trunk & roof to take the worst of it

Frequently the sides of the vehicle are much less contaminated and will not require an Iron Dissolving product


The Baggie Test is a great tool for convincing a potential customer that the car needs more than a Wash & Wax
 
To answer the OP's question, my 1L bottle lasts me about 5-6 cars, this including spraying the wheels as well.

How are you able to make the product last so long? Seeing other replies it seems to be that one bottle will last about 2 average size cars. My issue is that although I've read I need to decon the car the profit margin becomes less when your spending 10 dollars a car just on ironx. I mostly due DD cars and I will always clay them but I'm leaning towards stopping the ironx
 
I have only gone through one bottle, BUT I only used it on 2 peoples cars and a couple wheel jobs here and there. Both cars were smaller, Jaguar XJS and 2003 Thunderbird.
 
How are you able to make the product last so long? Seeing other replies it seems to be that one bottle will last about 2 average size cars. My issue is that although I've read I need to decon the car the profit margin becomes less when your spending 10 dollars a car just on ironx. I mostly due DD cars and I will always clay them but I'm leaning towards stopping the ironx

He said 1L. You asked for 500mL, which is half of what he's starting with. So if he's getting 5-6 out of 1L, then math says he'd get half of that from 500mL.

:)
 
My bottle lasts a long time. I only use it on my $$$$ packages. For people that want just an outside wash and vac I use an APC.
 
I've been thinking a lot about IronX lately.

Honestly: is this even required in the process? Have there ever been any tests or even unscientific comparisons of a car that was decontaminated with IronX + clay/nanoskin and one that was decontaminated solely with claying? Even if statistically different, does the use of IronX result in any improvements in outcome (compounding, polish, wax/sealant/coating bonding)?

I mean: sure, it looks purty on white cars, and it's obviously doing something.

Worth it?

It makes claying faster and easier. Rust blossoms can be very annoying to remove on white and silver cars since you see then very easily but obviously they're on all cars. For me, I have been able to use IronX a car and only use mild clay or a mild Nanoskin sponge/mitt but if I didn't use IronX then I would have to use a medium grade clay/clay substitute to remove some of the iron contamination. I could have both on me but it is much easier and faster to just spray IronX and use a sponge to spread.
To answer your first question - no it is not required. People have done perfectly fine without it but it sure does make the job easier.

To the answer the OP:
It really depends on the car sometimes. Age of the car, time between decon, and location where the customer lives are some of the variables that can require more or less IronX. In my experience though, I would say I average 2-4 cars with 500ml of IronX. I use a lot less than I use to. I find that spreading it with a sponge or wash mitt and doing it out of direct sunlight whenever possible really helps in using less product. If you really want to stretch your dollar I'd suggest trying to use a lot less (like maybe 100ml a car) and spread it with a sponge and let it dwell for longer and then try it a second round to see how much more - if any - it removes. Do that a few times to figure out yourself how much you really need to use and then adjust to what you need.

Also remember that if you really want to decon fast that clay substitues (ESPECIALLY the Nanoskin discs on a DA) really help speed up the process. Another thing to remember is that you don't necessarily have to use IronX to the point that the it won't turn purple if you do it again. If you do it once and just use a little and it dissolves a lot of the iron, then it will still make claying a whole lot easier and faster.

Just to throw something else in this (too long) post: I have back problems. Sometimes if I know I have a long correction ahead of me, then I always use IronX and always use TarX or Tarminator. This usually leave's calying to be no more than a 15 minute job with NS Mitt.
 
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