How many pads to use for SUV?

Shortspark

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I just bought a Griot's DA 6" polisher to use with my new ML350 SUV. The paint is perfect and I am very hesitant to use the polisher since I never used one before. However, I am sure I will get the hang of it. I use Duragloss products so I intend to polish with 501 and then use the bonding agent 601 and sealant (111 or 105). I have a few different color 5.5" Uber pads. I forget the colors off hand right now but I'll probably use the polishing pad for the 501 and the finishing pad for the bonding agent/sealant. I also have a microfiber bonnet that I was thinking of using as a buff. How many pads does it usually take and how do you know when it is time to put a new one on?
 
I just bought a Griot's DA 6" polisher to use with my new ML350 SUV. The paint is perfect

So after you wash and dry it and then look at the paint in the sun you don't see any swirls like I show in the below videos...



1954 Ford F-100 with swirls and holograms
[video=youtube_share;KAxyDNQjG5I&hd=1"]1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Remove Holograms Swirls...[/video]​


2012 High Voltage Yellow Scion - Before Condition - Swirls & Scratches

[video=youtube_share;sqk_4Lg5eaw"]Gtechniq On 2012 Scion Project at...[/video]​


Before - Sun shots of all the swirls and scratches
[video=youtube_share;ASHbjNDQZRE&hd=1"]1968 Firebird How To Remove Swirls by Machine ...[/video]​





If you don't see any swirls then count yourself lucky and that also means you don't have a lot of buffing to do in the first place.



and I am very hesitant to use the polisher since I never used one before. However, I am sure I will get the hang of it.

Do you have a second car besides the brand new MB to practice on?

It's better to practice and learn on something that's not important to you before you work on the project that is important to you.

Here's a great tip too...


Here's a tip... don't lift the pad off the paint till you've turned the polisher off and the spinning pad has slowed down...

What not to do when detailing a car!




I use Duragloss products so I intend to polish with 501 and then use the bonding agent 601 and sealant (111 or 105). I have a few different color 5.5" Uber pads. I forget the colors off hand right now but I'll probably use the polishing pad for the 501 and the finishing pad for the bonding agent/sealant.

I don't see any directions for using the 601 by machine but since it's non-abrasive you probably could, I think most people apply it by hand.


I also have a microfiber bonnet that I was thinking of using as a buff.

If you want to use a microfiber bonnet with your GG Polisher to remove wax then use a stiffer pad, usually a cutting pad as softer pads don't work to well.

Here's an article on that and a video too. The below article is very detailed on this technique.

How to use a microfiber bonnet to remove dried wax by machine

IndigoOnHydro02.jpg




The part on using the microfiber bonnet on a DA Polisher is towards the end of the video. This video actually has a ton of tips and techniques in it.



Video: How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine apply both a paint sealant and a finishing wax


In this video, you'll see how to inspect and remove RIDS or Random Isolated Deeper Scratches using 4" Spot Repair Pads on a Porter Cable 7424XP DA Polisher.


How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine
apply both a paint sealant and a finishing wax
[video=youtube_share;3xJH_MGgbLw&hd=1"]How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine...[/video]​



This how-to video also covers,

  • RIDS - Random Isolated Deeper Scratches
  • Removing watches and any jewelery
  • Using a DA Polisher without the handle
  • Placing cord over shoulder
  • Priming the pad on a DA Polisher
  • Speed settings for removing isolated defects
  • Downward pressure needed for removing isolated defects
  • How to clean a pad on the fly
  • Where and why to mark your backing plate with a black mark
  • Rotating the body of the tool to keep the pad flat to a panel
  • Why to allow the pad to stop spinning before lifting the pad off the paint
  • How to swap backing plates from a 3.5" to a 5"
  • Machine waxing using 5.5" Hydro-Tech Crimson Finishing pads with Menzerna Power Lock
  • The "Kissing the Finish" Technique
  • How to do the Swipe Test to check if a wax or paint sealant is dry
  • How to remove dried paint sealant using a microfiber bonnet on a dry pad on a DA Polisher
  • How to clean a microfiber bonnet on the fly with your fingernails
  • How to apply a paste wax by machine - Souveran Paste Wax
  • How to carefully wipe a WOWO wax off by hand using Microfiber Gloves and plush Microfiber Towels
  • How and why to fold a microfiber towel 4-ways to wipe wax off
  • How to break-open a coat of wax and then creep out to carefully wipe off a coating of wax
  • How to do the "Final Wipe"
Screenshots



How many pads does it usually take and how do you know when it is time to put a new one on?

If your car is filled with swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation then for the correction step you would want to use more pads as that makes the work easier and faster and you'll get better results versus trying to use just one or two.

If your finish is in excellent condition to start with then you could really get by using a single pad for each of the products you want to apply.


Does that help?


:_
 
I just bought a Griot's DA 6" polisher to use with my new ML350 SUV. The paint is perfect and I am very hesitant to use the polisher since I never used one before. However, I am sure I will get the hang of it. I use Duragloss products so I intend to polish with 501 and then use the bonding agent 601 and sealant (111 or 105). I have a few different color 5.5" Uber pads. I forget the colors off hand right now but I'll probably use the polishing pad for the 501 and the finishing pad for the bonding agent/sealant. I also have a microfiber bonnet that I was thinking of using as a buff. How many pads does it usually take and how do you know when it is time to put a new one on?

I use the Buff & Shine pads (same as UBER pads) and find I need 4-5.5" for each step and 2-4" for the small bits like bumpers, pillars, etc on a Passat Wagon. I clean them after everyother section using a Denture Brush from the dollar store. After I finish with a pad I put it in a bucket with a mild water/Dawn mix to allow them to soak until cleaning at the end. 501 is difficult to clean out of pads -- DAWN Power Disolver ($2.83 at Walmart) does a great job.

Since you will be applying product with your DA you won't need a bonnet to remove it bkz you can spread a nice thin coat and after hazing it buffs off very easy with a soft MF towel.

Did you know you can combine 501,105 or 111 with the 601 at each step and save some work--mix each product 4 to 1 with 601 (2 OZ 501 with 1/2 OZ 601 etc) apply, allow to haze and buff off then a couple of hours later you can apply the 105 or 111.
 
Thanks guys! That is terrific information. Yes, Mike, I have a truck I can practice on and my girl's Sonata. I plan on doing that soon but for the time being I have been practicing in the shower stall on the glass and sides and also when I clean my hot tub. It does a great job of cleaning with yellow cleaning pads and Soft Scrub (those pads are not suitable for autos).

I am also aware you can save time by using the 4:1 ratio of Duragloss bonding agent to sealant but I have not tried that yet. Looks like I have to buy more sealant pads as from what your saying the two I have are not enough for an SUV.
 
Here's a list of the different categories for paint condition from page 37 of my how-to book.

Basically wash and dry any car and then inspect the paint in two good sources of bright light and also feel the paint with your clean hand and it should fall into one of the below catagories...

Page 37 - Paint Condition Categories


Then take the results from your evaluation, choose the category you want for your goal and then work towards that goal via claying and machine polishing.

How many steps you do is up to you...


:)
 
. Looks like I have to buy more sealant pads as from what your saying the two I have are not enough for an SUV.

For sealants like 111 or 105 I just use one pad for the entire car and then dedicate that pad for that sealant (just mark the side with a permanent marker). You only need multiple pads when compounding and polishing.
 
I see. Depending on the condition of the paint I may have several steps or just one or two. With polish I will be cleaning the paint for the most part and the pad will need to be changed. With just sealant over a spotless, clean vehicle one pad may be enough. Now I understand. Thanks guys.
 
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