How many times can you wet sand and polish the same area?
- Thread starter vital2
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Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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No.
If you try you will cry.
I have sanded through factory clear trying to remove a single scratch. Here's the way I type about this,
Words cannot describe the heard-sinking feeling that overcomes you when you realize you've sanded or buffed through the clearcoat -Mike Phillips
In the first place, the majority of people on earth with drivers licenses and cars should NOT be wet sanding the factory clearcoat finish on their daily drivers. Here's why, this is one of the top 10 articles I've written that I share the most often,
Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips
Click the link. Look at the pictures. Copy what you see in the pictures to drive the point home.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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Also...
For everyone else that will ever read this thread into the future, remember...
You only have a limited amount of paint on the car and even the best in this industry, sooner or later will sand or buff through a factory clearcoat finish.
For everyone else that will ever read this thread into the future, remember...
- Sanding removes paint.
- Compounding removes paint.
- Polishing removes a little paint.
You only have a limited amount of paint on the car and even the best in this industry, sooner or later will sand or buff through a factory clearcoat finish.
mike.. thanks for the resurfacing this excellent advice as a reminder to us weekenders..
with of course a lot of variance involved.. and no actual committed firm answer..
would you consider replying to this question below:
2016 metallic black 4runner
no body work done
i am about to perform a full 3 step paint correction process: IRON x, nanoskin wipe down, WG uber compound with flex to remove DISO, finishing glaze, WG Sealant, then ps21 topping.
i am only going to perform the standard 6 pass process for UBER Compound and then Finishing Glaze.. orange/ white hybrid pads with FLEX 3401.. i will not be chasing the deeper scratches which remain....
would the following ownership life cycle be feasible without compromising clearcoat: i understand there are many many variables..but just seeking a rooftop outline of what may considered conservative, safe long term ownership maintenance cycle/ process, pls.
year 1: uber compound / finishing glaze (aka fine polishing) then lsp (note.. i will try the swirl remover first.. but i think to obtain the paint correction goal im looking for.. i think i may end up progressing to the UBER compound)..
year 2-4 : finishing glaze then lsp, annually
year 5 compound, finishing glaze, lsp
year 6-9 : finishing glaze, lsp
year 10 compound
repeat for the 10 year cycle for the 2nd decade of owernship...
is this feasible for car ownership of 15-20 years..
or would you recommend 1x compounding, within a 10 year cycle and stay with polishing..
or polishing only biannually?
with of course a lot of variance involved.. and no actual committed firm answer..
would you consider replying to this question below:
2016 metallic black 4runner
no body work done
i am about to perform a full 3 step paint correction process: IRON x, nanoskin wipe down, WG uber compound with flex to remove DISO, finishing glaze, WG Sealant, then ps21 topping.
i am only going to perform the standard 6 pass process for UBER Compound and then Finishing Glaze.. orange/ white hybrid pads with FLEX 3401.. i will not be chasing the deeper scratches which remain....
would the following ownership life cycle be feasible without compromising clearcoat: i understand there are many many variables..but just seeking a rooftop outline of what may considered conservative, safe long term ownership maintenance cycle/ process, pls.
year 1: uber compound / finishing glaze (aka fine polishing) then lsp (note.. i will try the swirl remover first.. but i think to obtain the paint correction goal im looking for.. i think i may end up progressing to the UBER compound)..
year 2-4 : finishing glaze then lsp, annually
year 5 compound, finishing glaze, lsp
year 6-9 : finishing glaze, lsp
year 10 compound
repeat for the 10 year cycle for the 2nd decade of owernship...
is this feasible for car ownership of 15-20 years..
or would you recommend 1x compounding, within a 10 year cycle and stay with polishing..
or polishing only biannually?
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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I think the above is completely sane.
If you wash her carefully, you won't have to compound much...
Then take uber care of the horizontal surfaces as these are the surfaces that take the most wear-n-tear.
I think the above is completely sane.
If you wash her carefully, you won't have to compound much...
Then take uber care of the horizontal surfaces as these are the surfaces that take the most wear-n-tear.
HI Mike, I swear I got rid off some orange peel by compounding. Is that possible. I've only compounded it once with m101 and a griots microfiber finishing pad. I'm thinking of trying it again to get rid of the Orange peel on the door?
Honestly bro, I've only been bitten by the detailing bug recently so I don't recommend this but I've used finishing polish and ultra fine finishing polish on my car more times then that in 1 YEAR, then what your talking about for twenty years
- Thread starter
- #12
Dont really have this problem yet but was just wondering if polishing and adding sealant or wax restores the coating layer to what it was before a scratch
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
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- 1
If you are referring to the coating layer
as being the ClearCoat-paint layer, then:
No.
Bob
- Thread starter
- #14
Just curious, why isn't applying a layer of clear coat a normal auto detailing practice after wet sanding and polishing some of the clear coat off?
It's not that easy
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
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- 1
Some Detailers may do painting/blending:
depends on their skill level; and, what the
Customers want...and are willing to pay for.
But...That's not what you originally asked.
You asked about Wax/Sealant restoring
the (CC) coating layer...correct?
My answer to the immediate above
question is still a resounding: No.
Bob
TTQ B4U
Well-known member
- Jan 20, 2016
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Bob has already chimed in and I agree with his responses. Waxes and sealants and even coatings are far thinner than the clear you're removing when wet sanding so thus you can not make up for the removal of clear unless you were to respray the entire car.