How to apply liquid wax

dochawk

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I picked up Maguire's ultimate liquid wax for no more real reason than being told that the paste could stain other bits of the car, and the liquid wouldn't.

Not having hand waxed a car since the 1980s, and using paste back then, this seems to be far less work. But . . .

I used the towel that came with the wax to wipe it on, waited a few minutes and used another section it clear. I seem to be gathering huge amounts of wax in a towel that is getting damp from wax. I suspect that I'm doing something horribly wrong here, and using excessive amounts of wax to no purpose

hawk
 
Maybe this video will help.

[video=youtube_share;RWE1s3dEHNk"]How to Wax Your Car with Meguiar's® Ultimate Liquid Wax - YouTube[/video]
 
Use applicator pads to apply, not mf towels.
Wait at least 10 minutes before buffing.
I prefer to wait 20 minutes, but that is a long wait when on a mobile detail.

It is a great product.
I use it a lot.
Highly recommend it.
 
OK, first off there is no difference as far as a liquid wax (sealant) and paste wax when it comes to staining trim. Most modern waxes in either form will not stain trim.

For application, sounds like you are using WAY to much product. Use a foam applicator, and then apply it VERY VERY thin. A few small drops on the applicator should cover an entire panel.

Wait for it to dry. Use your finger and wipe a tiny area and if the residue is dry, then its time to remove. Use a microfiber towel for that.
 
OK, first off there is no difference as far as a liquid wax (sealant) and paste wax when it comes to staining trim.


That's not what Meguiars says...

This is most definitely NOT an updated formula of NXT 2.0/M21 2.0 - it's a clean sheet of paper formula.

The application experience is very different, almost like applying warm, partially melted butter. It goes on amazingly thin (hence the Thin Film technology in the description) and wipe off is super easy. The liquid version won't stain trim at all - the paste may due to ingredients in it that make it a paste format - and it can even be applied on a warm surface in direct sunlight. While we've tested this on surfaces as hot as 158F we still recommend applying on a cool surface, but if you're stuck and can't get into the shade, you can still use Ultimate Wax.
 
OK, I was *way* off !

So I probably have something like a third a bottle soaked up in that towel . . .

Is there anything special about the towel they supply with the bottle, or is it just another microfiber (I have another in another box).

How often should I apply to a car that had been unwaxed? How many coats before slowing down?

It's caddie white diamond, if that males a difference

thanks all

hawk
 
You're not really going to get any benefit from multiple "coats" or "layers". Many people will perform 2 applications, just to make sure they didn't miss any spots.

I haven't used this particular product, but if it's easy to apply I'd suggest reapplication when the properties you desire diminish (such as beading or slickness). Perhaps using a product like Meguiar's Ultimate Spray Wax after every, or every other wash may help extend the life of your "wax".
 
Most modern waxes in either form will not stain trim.

I'm not sure I'd agree with that. I'd agree that most modern boutique waxes available here at Autogeek won't, but I'm sure if you went to a chain store you could find plenty of inferior products that will.
 
A typical car should use around and ounce, especially ULW. The mf towel is a decent towel and one coat is all you need. ULW isn't a wax it's a sealant and as long as you apply thin even coats you will be fine for a few months,over applying and multiple coats is just wasting your money
 
Unless they've changed the formula over the years, NuFinish used to stain the heck out of trim. So will Power Lock, although I really like Power Lock other than that.
 
Unless they've changed the formula over the years, NuFinish used to stain the heck out of trim. So will Power Lock, although I really like Power Lock other than that.

Oops, I guess I'm crossing Power Lock off my wish list.
 
Unless they've changed the formula over the years, NuFinish used to stain the heck out of trim. So will Power Lock, although I really like Power Lock other than that.

Confirming, Power Lock stains the trim. I mainly opted for PL over Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 because someone mentioned that the last stains the trim. Alas, it took me 1.5 hour to remove PL stains using Optimum APC full strength to remove most ugliness.
 
OK, I was *way* off !



So I probably have something like a third a bottle soaked up in that towel . . .



Is there anything special about the towel they supply with the bottle, or is it just another microfiber (I have another in another box).



How often should I apply to a car that had been unwaxed? How many coats before slowing down?



It's caddie white diamond, if that males a difference



thanks all



hawk


Soaked towel? Where's the little foam applicator that came inside the box? That's what you're supposed to use to apply the wax, not the towel. But I guess you know that by now:p
 
My primary concern is the Las Vegas sun, which is brutal on paint. On one of my other cars, we can even tell which direction a prior owner parked it in outside, from the unevenness of the past wear.

Is this the right sealant given that concern? Beading, shine, and such are important, but the paint not diving comes first :)

It does suggest two applications

Thanks

hawk
 
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