How to buff in tight spaces using a rotary buffer

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How to buff in tight spaces using a rotary buffer


For doing correction work in tight areas and on thin panels I use the Flex PE14 with a small pad. I call this surgical or precision buffing. To do this you need,

  1. Lightweight, compact rotary buffer
  2. Rotary Buffer Backing Plate Extension(s)
  3. Small backing plates
  4. Small buffing pads, both foam and fiber

Here's an example on the Lotus Esprit I recently buffed out. I used these pictures for my class at Mobile Tech Expo, "How to use the rotary buffer".

2014_Mobil_Tech_Expo_Detailing_Classes_by_Mike_Phillips_0071.jpg



Surgical or Precision Buffing
I could have done this type of precision buffing using a FULL SIZE DeWALT, or Makita or 3M or Milwaukee Rotary Buffer but it's the compact size, that is no bulky body in the way of my view or in the way of body components, plus the lightweight plus the slow RPM that makes the Flex PE14 the perfect tool for this type of work.

2014_Mobil_Tech_Expo_Detailing_Classes_by_Mike_Phillips_007c1.jpg




  1. You want power?
  2. You want ease of use?
  3. You want to buff out thin panels or get into tight areas to do correction and polishing work?


The Flex PE14 and small pads, backing plates and an extension or two and you're good to go...


2000_Lotus_Esprit_0121.jpg



:dblthumb2:
 
Mike, how do you prevent introducing holograms when buffing like this?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Not sure how Mike does it but for me it's all about.

Light polish to finish.
Finishing pad.
Low RPM's
Using just the right amount of product, too much it's harder to work down, too little causes dry buffing.
Light pressure using slower arm speeds.
Overlapping, good coverage.
Keeping the pad flat as possible.
Up and down , side to side movements just as using a DA.

I watch a lot of vids of people going mad with the buffer using a heavy compound and a wool pad plus not follow with a lesser cut polish and pad.

My steps might not be the perfect method but it's a method I've used for many years and works for me:)









Mike, how do you prevent introducing holograms when buffing like this?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Mike great job, the only problem I see is that each of those extensions attachments are like 10-12 bucks each. I only own 1.
 
I have two myself but need two more.
Wish they made one, 4-6 inches long.
One piece.



Mike great job, the only problem I see is that each of those extensions attachments are like 10-12 bucks each. I only own 1.
 
Mike great job, the only problem I see is that each of those extensions attachments are like 10-12 bucks each. I only own 1.

If you actually do this for a living or make a reasonable amount of money, what's $30 bucks for an investment that will improve the quality of most of your details? That is a small price to pay.
 
If you actually do this for a living or make a reasonable amount of money, what's $30 bucks for an investment that will improve the quality of most of your details? That is a small price to pay.

I dont spare any expense on my details or corrections, what so ever. I use the best I can get my hands on, that is why I am a member here on AG, but for a total investment of $56.00 plus shipping. I find this expensive. I would just like a alternative.

I will contact my friends father that owns a machine shop and see what he can come up with. :props:
 
I just invested $800 last week into my equipment...and all i wanted to do was my own car...now 5 customer cars later...i still dont have time for my own...tools are everything and thanks for this post...i need to invest into few more things
 
I have two myself but need two more.
Wish they made one, 4-6 inches long.
One piece.

Make one yourself:

A 5/8-24 coupler and 6" length of threaded rod. After screwing the coupler onto your buffer, thread the rod in until it contacts the spindle of the buffer, JB weld into place and you're set. $5-10 (depending on if you already have JB weld or not) and it's all at Lowes or Home Depot.
 
Mike, how do you prevent introducing holograms when buffing like this?

The goal here and in the back where we used the extensions extensively, just haven't' gotten to the pictures yet, the goal is to cut with wool and then finish out with a fine cut polish and foam.

In tight areas there might be some holograms but because they are in tight areas you'll never see them. Basically do the best you can and then seal her up.

We did the major panels using rotary only using gold jeweling pads the problem with these tight areas is I don't have small jewelling pads and didn't feel like making custom pads just for this job.



Not sure how Mike does it but for me it's all about.

Light polish to finish.
Finishing pad.
Low RPM's
Using just the right amount of product, too much it's harder to work down, too little causes dry buffing.
Light pressure using slower arm speeds.
Overlapping, good coverage.
Keeping the pad flat as possible.
Up and down , side to side movements just as using a DA.

I watch a lot of vids of people going mad with the buffer using a heavy compound and a wool pad plus not follow with a lesser cut polish and pad.

My steps might not be the perfect method but it's a method I've used for many years and works for me:)

:iagree: That sounds good to me...



I just invested $800 last week into my equipment...and all i wanted to do was my own car...

now 5 customer cars later...i still dont have time for my own...t

ools are everything and thanks for this post...i need to invest into few more things


It's funny how so many guys start out just wanting to buff out their own cars and end up accidently starting a detailing business.


:D
 
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