How to Ceramic Coat

boggsy

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hi

First of all mike thanks for accepting.

Can you kindly teach me how to ceramic coat my car. There are video on you tube i have been watching, but im not sure of it.

Lets say everything is prepared and i just need to ceramic coat :)


Thanks

heres what i bought. View attachment 67848
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum!
I'm guessing you posed your questions to Mike Phillips, our forum expert.
But we all help out from time to time, sometimes Mike is away on occasion.

I'd say dependent upon the Coating you select to use, of course follow the Manufacturer's directions fully.
To go outside those recommendations with an unorthodox makeshift method might get you in a bit of trouble.

Generally, most of the durable Coatings require an application step, then a final leveling-smoothing step done a very short time after application to each panel. Then repeat when moving to the next Panel.

Most instructions suggest a criss-cross application both in one direction, then another, and insuring overlap of product.

Insure you have enough product to coat the panel, but also do not over apply, which only causes a waste of product. Commonly 30ml of let's say Carpro CQuartz should be enough to cover an average sized car, but might not be enough for a larger SUV or Pickup Truck.

Also consider, you may wish to coat your Wheels as well. Wheels, if done both in and out might possibly need a full 30ml bottle to complete those, so keep that in mind. For Wheels, many might use a different coating product called Carpro DLX, very good.

The prep, good lighting and seeing what you are doing are paramount. A couple good "sacrificial" towels will likely be needed for the final leveling and smoothing to insure no high spots, or a spot missed.

Techniques differ, but I myself would likely coat all horizontal Panels such as the Roof, Hood, and Trunk Lid first, then move onto side Panels, and front-rear Bumpers.

Many coating products often suggest a follow-up temporary protective coat of a product within their line-up, that after a coating is initially fully dry, say an hour or two, then a sealant is applied to further protect the coating in its initial curing stages, which can sometimes take up to a full week to fully cure and harden.

To not do such might make the coating susceptible to water spotting if the coating is wetted.

I'd also suggest to the theme of "Keeping it in the Family", meaning whatever brand of Coating you use, do use their prep and protective products before and after the coating, both short term and long term as a good guideline to follow.

If Mike Chimes in, he'll perhaps link you to some Vids, showing such processes being done.

Hope this helps, and again welcome to the forum!
 
Hi mark

Thanks for you Welcome. Really appreciate it. As of now the criss cross application you said is the only thing i understand. This ceramic thing is still a bit blurry. Im reading Mike's link how to article This is my first time doing it, I dont want to mess it up hehe.
 
The first Coating I ever used was Carpro CQuartz UK, which there are some who have had issues with this older version. I didn't, but have prior detailing experience, and did read a lot about this particular Coating before using it.

The newer verison called CQuartz UK 3.0 is said to be much more user friendly, and has a greater latitude of temperatures in which it can be applied.

The Coating itself is a relatively fast process. What I, and most others find as the most difficult and time consuming processes is the full prep of the vehicle, getting it ready for the Ceramic Coat.

The cleaner you work, the better. The decontamination of the paint, likely claying, and should also use an Iron Remover both prior to Polishing take time.

Polishing and correcting the paint finish is commonly done. Then a final prep wipe to remove any-all traces of Polishing Oils, etc, so the Coating will properly bond to the paint.

The reason for a great degree of attention beforehand, is as you can imagine, the coating is like hitting "freeze frame" on the paint. Whatever is on that paint is then there to stay after the coating, be it dirts, sleeks and fine scratches, Saps, Iron Particulates, etc.

Coating is an initially expensive protectant to have to purchase, but long term for the long length of protection one receives, and the higher degree of paint protection, many Coatings are an actual bargain in the long run. Not to mention the time savings when car washes are needed, they go much quicker and easier, and less chance of inducing wash related swirling-scratching.
 
Hi Mark,

Yes the preparation. At least that part I understand :). What do you use for the final prep to remove any-all traces of polishing oils? :-D

I also have read the first article. : Installing a Ceramic Paint Coating? You MUST have a GREAT hand held light to avoid high spots!

1. Wait Time: Do different brands have different wait times?
Is there a general rule on whats the safe wait time? Lets say 10 minutes? :-D

Thanks
10 minutes way too long. I give it 30 seconds maybe. It will evaporate... the carrier or suspension, that carries the ceramic. You'll never get it rubbed off or leveled waiting 10 minutes.

And light helps a lot. The prep is... as others have stated... how perfect and clean you want the paint.

Good luck

Ryan

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Hi Mark,

Yes the preparation. At least that part I understand :). What do you use for the final prep to remove any-all traces of polishing oils? :-D

This info is in the article I shared with you here,

For boggsy - A Ceramic Paint Coating How-To article

Most companies that sell a coating also sell a product for chemically stripping the paint. You can also use Mineral Spirits or diluted IPA. You could even carefully wash your car with a dish washing soap.




This is correct. If you don't remove the high spots or in simple language, EXCESS PRODUCT - with some coatings, you cannot simply wipe the reside off the next day. You must polish or compound it off.

Imagine spending a second day polishing off high spots because you didn't have a good light to inspect the paint for them?



1. Wait Time: Do different brands have different wait times?
Is there a general rule on whats the safe wait time? Lets say 10 minutes? :-D

Thanks


EVERY brand of coating that I have ever used tells you how long to wait in the directions.

Get the directions for your coating and read them. My guess is this info is there.

Generally speaking it's a few seconds to a minute.



:)
 
10 minutes way too long. I give it 30 seconds maybe. It will evaporate... the carrier or suspension, that carries the ceramic. You'll never get it rubbed off or leveled waiting 10 minutes.

And light helps a lot. The prep is... as others have stated... how perfect and clean you want the paint.

Good luck



Goonie75 has got it right Boggsy, 10 minute's time between application, and then coming behind to level-smooth is much too long.

Typically with a product like CQuartz or CQuartz UK, 1 to 2 minutes at the very most. I myself would err on about the one minute mark, then wipe and smooth. Then onto the next panel, or portion of a panel.

Notice I say "Portion of a Panel". Larger Panels such as the Hood, Roof and Trunk, even larger doors should perhaps be broken into sections. Let's just for say the Hood. That I might break the Hood on a Car into 4 Sections. Areas of about 20"x20", or 22"x22" are about as large an area you want to apply a Coat at a time.

And like I mention before, insure overlap.

It's a process where one should work fairly quickly, but also carefully.

Where a Body Panel may butt up against Glass, Plastic Trim, Headlights, you should probably Mask off these areas, to insure no overrun of product onto those parts of a vehicle.

Masking Tapes of various widths are a must have when polishing and coating.
 
Boggsy, Here is another good Video from Corey, from "Sky's The Limit". His Business. Here he applies the CQuartz Coating.

Corey as I understand it, is the main USA Distributor for Carpro Products. Also, there is a Carpro Forum online for your information. I am a member there as well.

This might not be very clearly seen in his Video, but trust there is virtually no lag time between the time he applies this Coating, and then wipes to level the Coating.

That pretty much as soon as he has the Panel treated with the Coating application, he's then coming behind almost immediately to wipe smooth and level the finish.

YouTube
 
Haven't read the entire thread but will suggest CarPro Cquartz UK v3.0 It's as close to fool-proof easy as a coating can get. If you're talented enough to get this far, you'll have no issues with it.
 
Thanks for the tip of 30 seconds Goonie75 :-D

Mark thanks also for the masking off portions and dividing the ares by 20 inches and of course the Video. I love watching videos with detailed how to's :-D Will watch it after work later :-D

TTQB4U Thanks for the CarPro Cquartz UK v3.0 but sadly I already spent money and ordered A Mr. Fix 9H. I hope it works when it arrives.

Mike I'm hoping the Ceramic Mr. Fix 9H has instructions. I ordered it online before I got into this forum with you guys. Im trying to contact the seller if they're selling a product that can strip the car of chemicals. So fingers crossed if it arrives. :-D
 
Hi guys, I'm gonna finish reading the threads mike gave me first before applying anything.

But one quick question. My Car is color Black. My avatar picture :). It has some little fine scratches on it. Like a bag scratch. Before I used to buy a Turtle wax Color Magic (Color Black) and it covers the white scratch and blends with the black color.

But now that I have to oil clean everything before applying the ceramic, how do I touch up the little white scratch :-D
 
Hi guys, I'm gonna finish reading the threads mike gave me first before applying anything.

But one quick question. My Car is color Black. My avatar picture :). It has some little fine scratches on it. Like a bag scratch. Before I used to buy a Turtle wax Color Magic (Color Black) and it covers the white scratch and blends with the black color.

But now that I have to oil clean everything before applying the ceramic, how do I touch up the little white scratch :-D


MarkD51 Can i ask, On the video hes using a small towel on the applicator and says you need to turn it around after a while. How do i know when to turn it around? When the ceramic builds up on it? Can I use it on half of my SUV before turning it around? :)
 
Hi guys, I'm gonna finish reading the threads mike gave me first before applying anything.

But one quick question. My Car is color Black. My avatar picture :). It has some little fine scratches on it. Like a bag scratch. Before I used to buy a Turtle wax Color Magic (Color Black) and it covers the white scratch and blends with the black color.

But now that I have to oil clean everything before applying the ceramic, how do I touch up the little white scratch :-D


MarkD51 Can i ask, On the video hes using a small towel on the applicator and says you need to turn it around after a while. How do i know when to turn it around? When the ceramic builds up on it? Can I use it on half of my SUV before turning it around? :)
Probably could polish it out maybe. Dont know how deep it is. If you can feel it it may be too deep. Some folks wet it damp sand the isolated scratches.

As far as panel wipe, I use CarPro Eraser. Some use mineral spirits... others IPA... the idea is to get the cleanest surface for the science to bond to.

Scotch tape... try to get it to stick to a wall you just out lotion on... or a lotion-free wall that is clean... dry... not gooey etc... it will stick better

Similar with products you want to stay and last longer... IMO it's the same for wheels, tires, inside, out, the cleaner the better the product will adhere and last...

I fold mf into 8ths. Every panel or so I flip and rotate ...

Hope this helps. Good luck

Ryan

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Hi guys, I'm gonna finish reading the threads mike gave me first before applying anything.

But one quick question. My Car is color Black. My avatar picture :). It has some little fine scratches on it. Like a bag scratch. Before I used to buy a Turtle wax Color Magic (Color Black) and it covers the white scratch and blends with the black color.

But now that I have to oil clean everything before applying the ceramic, how do I touch up the little white scratch :-D


MarkD51 Can i ask, On the video hes using a small towel on the applicator and says you need to turn it around after a while. How do i know when to turn it around? When the ceramic builds up on it? Can I use it on half of my SUV before turning it around? :)

I'll try answering your questions in this post as best as possible.

As others have mentioned, if the fine scratches aren't too deep, that a fingernail doesn't easily catch in the scratch, you can find some over the counter polish products that may enable you to carefully hand polish out such damage if you don't have a Dual Action Polisher.

Such products could be Meguiars Scratch-X, or 3M's Scratch kit that comes with a small Trizact 3000 grit Polishing Pad, and some polishing compound, and I'm sure there are many others to be found.

Carpro Eraser is a good paint prep product and would assume that if it works well prior to coating a Vehicle with their CQuartz Coating, it should work well for others.

A cheaper way out, which there are some here that use such, is they concoct a panel prep solution with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (from ay pharmacy), and Distilled Water. I think the goal is to achieve a 15% final dilution solution, and then use to spray upon a panel and then wipe. I'm guessing this would probably be roughly 1 part Alcohol, and 3 parts Distilled Water, this should get you prety close to that dilution mix.

Corey perhaps doesn't explain the reasons why he's then flipping that little 4"x4" Suede Microfiber Sheet, but I'll share my experiences as to why.

Oddly enough, after washing, a decon with Iron-X, another Wash, Claying, and yet another wash, Polishing with D/A with Polishes, and then even the final Panel wipe, and doing all this work prior to applying a coating such as CQuartz, I have noticed that these litle MF Sheets will get dirty after applying the coating to a couple panels.

No doubt the reason he turns it over to the other side. Mist also be that they start looking a bit worn, but I do believe it is because of noticing dirts on the applicataor.

One would think after all that work, nothing would then come off the paint, but the carrier solvents in these coatings must be fairly aggressive to still yank even a bit more cruds off the paint as you go.

The Carpro Kits typically comes with 4 of these little Sheets, which should be enough for the average vehicle.

When both sides are looking a little tired and dirty, toss and grab another fresh one.

Those MF Suede Sheets can be bought here seperately. I'm not at all sure what will come with your Coating Kit?

Some Coatings, such as Pinnacle Black Label I believe can be used with just a regular Foam Applicator if my memory serves me correctly.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi Goonie75

Thanks. Microfiber 8 folds. Also the IPA. As for the scratch, I hope it will lessen while i have it buffed :-D
 
Hi MarkD51

yes i'm hoping polishing compound using a dual action polisher will lessen it. At least now I know if there's some little scratch left, I will have to live with it and coat it with the ceramic :-D

And For the Grocery Store Isopropyl Alcohol 70% mixed with Distilled Water, I will mix ( 1 part alcohol and 3 parts distilled) to get the 15% final dilution mix :-D I have lots of Grocery 70% Isopropyl Alcohol here and distilled water because of my 1st 8 month old baby girl :) :)

About the 4"x4" Suede Microfiber, Im sure when my Mr. Fix 9H arrives it wont have it, I will have to buy online for that. And from the dim looks of it, Our online shops here sell it and its from china. Im not sure if its the same quality as the carpro.

Im understanding now why these microfibers are so important. I'm afraid to buy the suede MF online cause there's no reviews. Its just says its for glasses.

I have attached pictures. Do you think this is ok? As long as there's no dirt it will not scratch the paint right? :-)View attachment 67853View attachment 67852
 
Hi Mark,

Yes the preparation. At least that part I understand :). What do you use for the final prep to remove any-all traces of polishing oils? :-D

I also have read the first article. :

Installing a Ceramic Paint Coating? You MUST have a GREAT hand held light to avoid high spots!


1. Wait Time: Do different brands have different wait times?
Is there a general rule on whats the safe wait time? Lets say 10 minutes? :-D

Thanks

The wait time is typically on the directions from the manufacturer. What one has to remember is that the environment (temperature, humidity) will play a factor in the flash time. You will get how the coating is reacting to the environment after a panel or two.

Hi guys, I'm gonna finish reading the threads mike gave me first before applying anything.

But one quick question. My Car is color Black. My avatar picture :). It has some little fine scratches on it. Like a bag scratch. Before I used to buy a Turtle wax Color Magic (Color Black) and it covers the white scratch and blends with the black color.

But now that I have to oil clean everything before applying the ceramic, how do I touch up the little white scratch :-D

You have received a lot of good information on how to prep the surface. I would recommend you at least chemically and mechanically decon the paint followed but at a minimum a polishing step. Proceed with a prep wipe and then apply the coating.

Hi MarkD51

yes i'm hoping polishing compound using a dual action polisher will lessen it. At least now I know if there's some little scratch left, I will have to live with it and coat it with the ceramic :-D

And For the Grocery Store Isopropyl Alcohol 70% mixed with Distilled Water, I will mix ( 1 part alcohol and 3 parts distilled) to get the 15% final dilution mix :-D I have lots of Grocery 70% Isopropyl Alcohol here and distilled water because of my 1st 8 month old baby girl :) :)

About the 4"x4" Suede Microfiber, Im sure when my Mr. Fix 9H arrives it wont have it, I will have to buy online for that. And from the dim looks of it, Our online shops here sell it and its from china. Im not sure if its the same quality as the carpro.

Im understanding now why these microfibers are so important. I'm afraid to buy the suede MF online cause there's no reviews. Its just says its for glasses.

I have attached pictures. Do you think this is ok? As long as there's no dirt it will not scratch the paint right? :-)View attachment 67853View attachment 67852

Mike has an article on IPA mixtures. Some even mix it 50/50 with water.

I would actually skip on the suede applicators and invest in the Autofiber microfiber coating saver applicators. They work much better than the suede block and applicator. You get many of them but you will find other ways to use them. If you must have a suede applicator, then the rag company butter soft suede's are much better in my experience.

I will also mention to get yourself some good towels for the coating process. The rag company edgeless 300's are a great towel for the job. Use one for the initial wipe and the second for the final wipe.
 
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