how to fix a bad old paint repair

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z3man

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4 years ago, I fixed scratches on my 2000 bmwz3 by putting the manufactures paint in the scratches and then the sealer. (And did nothing else). It has looked really bad ever since then (pics 1 and 2). How do I go about getting rid of these globs and starting over?
Also, I used rubbing compound on some spots on the car (pic 3), and these places now look dull. Any way to bring them back?
Thanks for the coming comments.
 
newbie needs advice

Hello all! I fixed scratches on my 2000 bmwz3 by putting the manufactures paint in the scratches and then the sealer. (And did nothing else). It has looked really bad ever since then . How do I go about getting rid of these globs and starting over?
Any help would be much appreciated.
 
From my perspective you got a good start, question do you still have more of the body color touch up color if so that is great if not please go buy more cause what I would do is with 2500 or 3000 grit ruff up that base color(making it smooth as possable) after wipeing it with rubbing alcohol apply another one or two coats of color then apply three to four coats of clear touch up paint(15 minute dry time in between each coat) then you'll be left with a bump of paint now with 3000 or 2500 gently sand it down flush with the surrounding paintwork now theres a haze buff it out by hand with a combo like meguiars m105 and m205 to a high shine
 
Re: newbie needs advice

Most people have really high expectations for rock chip repair. The expect that when looking directly down on the hood where the rock chips are to be able to make it look like nothing ever happened. As in no chips and no repair.

This can be done but it requires some time, skill, knowledge and the right products.

You can make rock chip repair as simple or as complex as you want but for most people, more and more work doesn't always mean better and better results.

The first thing to remember is less is more, that is put less touch up paint into the chip so you don't go from a sub-surface crater to a blob sticking out on top of the paint.

If you have the blob, then a couple of things you can do...


  1. Sand the blob flat to be even with the surface of the surrounding paint.
  2. Remove your sanding marks.
  3. Re-seal the paint with wax, sealant or coating.
Couple of comments to anyone ever attempting to do this kind of repair...

1. When possible, let the paint dry longer. You want the touch up paint as dry and hard as possible before you start sanding and buffing on it.

The problem you can run into when you start buffing on touch-up paint is when you warm it up, especially when using a rotary buffer, you can actually pull the touch-up paint right out of the scratch or rock chip.

Then you're back to where you started only now you've got sanding marks in the surrounding paint.


2. Touch-up paint will always be softer than the factory paint surrounding the repair, here's how this affects the buffing process. When you go to buff out your sanding marks, they will buff out quickly and easily out of the touch-up paint because this paint is softer, especially if it's only dried a short time. The surrounding paint will be harder and thus it will be harder or more difficult to remove.

ve your sanding marks out 100%

It's easy to sand paint as at it's core that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting the ALL out...

When doing touch-up repair work on clear coat paints, what I've seen and experienced is the sanding marks come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily but not so with the factory clear.

So what a person does is continue buffing the sanding marks in the surrounding clear paint and what happens is you heat the panel up and your buffing pad will literally pull the touch-up paint out of the scratch or chip.



3. You really need a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks 100%

Can you do it with a DA or Flex or even Cyclo? Sure but it will take longer. Again the sanding marks will come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily, it's the surrounding factory baked-on clear coat that you'll need to be concerned with.

Try to finish sand with #3000 or #5000 before buffing.


Also, if you don't have a rotary buffer you can remove sanding marks by hand but this usually requires more skill than working by hand.


:)
 
Just to note, normal forum etiquette or netiquette is to create a single thread for a topic. There's no need to create multiple threads for the same topic as this can just cause confusion.

I've merged your two threads together.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for the help and advice. Much appreciated. This thread had two parts, so I decided to break it down and just do one at a time. If I don't hear back from anyone about the rubbing compound, I'll start over with just that question.
 
z3man said:
Also, I used rubbing compound on some spots on the car (pic 3), and these places now look dull. Any way to bring them back?
Click to expand...


Yeah.... some "rubbing compounds" shouldn't be used on paint. Especially anything from the old days. I type about this all the time so here goes again... when working on modern clearcoat paints that are harder than traditional single stage paints, (except white), and are VERY scratch-sensitive, the most important factor is to use the best abrasive technology available.

You can fix the dull spots, my guess is you need to get a good compound and polish plus at a minimum an entry level polisher like the Porter Cable 7424XP an this will help you remove the dull spots and maintain the finish on your BMW.


Click this link, it was posted today by a guy getting started. It has all the info and links to videos that you could use for your situation.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/80458-getting-started.html



Or just watch this video....





:xyxthumbs:
 
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