How to graduate to different products?

Bhoppy1216

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I have seen multiple times and been told that Ultimate Compound would be better to start with rather than using 105 because it is more forgiving to new people, which I am. My question is how does one determine if they are ready to go to more complicated or finiky products like 105? If I am new and have no teacher, how do you graduate to that?
 
I guess I did it wrong. I went straight to 105. Never had an issue in 15 years.

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A good rule to follow is start mild and work up to the most aggressive. When I first started detailing my truck, wow what a mess. I to went straight to M105 and wool cutting pads.

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lol you went in strong and finished strong
I originally misread your reply - sorry!


i guess so? Im just not afraid of making mistakes and learning from them. I know I way over compounded my previous white tundra as it got heavily compounded and polished once a year.

Ive used 105 when needed, 205 and then various waxes. Always finished great. Black, metalic black, metalic burgandy and white colored vehicles.

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A good rule to follow is start mild and work up to the most aggressive. When I first started detailing my truck, wow what a mess. I to went straight to M105 and wool cutting pads.

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You got to learn somewhere. I did the same thing but on a orbital buffer and by hand.

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You got to learn somewhere. I did the same thing but on a orbital buffer and by hand.

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Yep, I was there as well. Had a 6in handheld pos da that used cheap microfiber bonnets.

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Yep, I was there as well. Had a 6in handheld pos da that used cheap microfiber bonnets.

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Yeah. Mine was a large 10"?? From autozone. the foam backing eventually fell off with the bonnet attached. Upgraded to a DA and haven't looks back.



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Yeah. Mine was a large 10"?? From autozone. the foam backing eventually fell off with the bonnet attached. Upgraded to a DA and haven't looks back.



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I think the one I had was from Wallyworld. I have a rotary, 3 da buffers and 3in da. Griots, Meguiars and Porter

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I think the one I had was from Wallyworld. I have a rotary, 3 da buffers and 3in da. Griots, Meguiars and Porter

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Damn, that's a lot of equipment. I'd love to have a dedicated 3" but I can't justify it for needing it twice a year.

I have a Harbor freight DA. I'm actually pretty happy with it. Aside from being relatively loud and vibrates a lot it does the job quite well with LC pads. When it dies I'll probably go to something better.

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I like Griots Garage because of their lifetime warranty and the quality

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uc is a great compound, why do you think you have to graduate to 105? I personally think UC is the upgrade for 105 for ease of use and predictibility. why suffer tryin to figure out 105 when you can hit the ground unning with the UC
 
uc is a great compound, why do you think you have to graduate to 105? I personally think UC is the upgrade for 105 for ease of use and predictibility. why suffer tryin to figure out 105 when you can hit the ground unning with the UC

Good point :)
 
I don't think it's a graduation thing. 105 is just not a great compound in my experience. People seem to say 105/205 because that's what the people who taught them said. I honestly can't see any reason that 105 is still recommended, except perhaps price. I suppose local availability may be another reason. It works and will get the job done. But other products cut as well or better and are less finicky to use. I just to don't see a compelling reason to use it when we have access to other products at a slightly higher cost. And for most of us Ultimate Compound works as well and is less problematic. Some people combine the two and say they get good results, so that may be an options as well.

If I were a pro and went through a lot of compound, I would consider combining 105 with something else to keep my costs down. 32 oz of compound will last me a long time, so an extra $20 for something that works better and is easier seems like a huge gain for not much money.
 
Samples from here, and a small test spot are a great way to start. When I place a big order I take advantage of the samples and get something I've never used. It's resulted in a couple purchases, and a couple products that I don't think suit me. Those 2oz samples go a long way.
 
I don't think it's a graduation thing. 105 is just not a great compound in my experience. People seem to say 105/205 because that's what the people who taught them said. I honestly can't see any reason that 105 is still recommended, except perhaps price. I suppose local availability may be another reason. It works and will get the job done. But other products cut as well or better and are less finicky to use. I just to don't see a compelling reason to use it when we have access to other products at a slightly higher cost. And for most of us Ultimate Compound works as well and is less problematic. Some people combine the two and say they get good results, so that may be an options as well.

If I were a pro and went through a lot of compound, I would consider combining 105 with something else to keep my costs down. 32 oz of compound will last me a long time, so an extra $20 for something that works better and is easier seems like a huge gain for not much money.
Honest question... I haven't done any research but why are you saying M105 is not a great compound? Maybe since I haven't used others I'm not aware of issues that make it a less than stellar choice.

Dusting is the only issue I've experienced and even that isn't bad.

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If it works well for you there's no reason to switch. No question it can remove defects well. For me it has short working time. Short to the point that I get less work done because I have to stop. If you overwork it it gets dry (like all compounds), but it can get dry very quickly. Even worse for me, if it gets dry it's hard to very hard to remove. It can set up like cement on your paint. Too much to worry about and too much hassle for me.

Others cut longer and given this, they appear to cut better. And removal isn't an issue. My 105 sits in a completely different part of garage. It's in the "don't know what to do with it" pile. Griots, UC, Menzerna, and Rupes compounds are all much easier to use. HD can be hard to remove sometimes (for me) but nothing like M105.

Could be that I just never figured it out or am using it wrong so I don't have the confidence with it. The others are just much easier for me and give as good or better results. UC is surprisingly good.
 
I have seen multiple times and
been told that Ultimate Compound
would be better to start with rather
than using 105 because it is more
forgiving to new people, which I am.

My question is how does one determine
if they are ready to go to more compli-
cated or finiky products like 105?

If I am new and have no teacher,
how do you graduate to that?
•IMO:
-Not every detail requires heavy
compounding: part of the learning
process---here's one way to start
off on the correct course:

•One of the best ways to start down
the path towards graduating from the
"School of Buffing Liquids" is to start
at the beginning:
"The Test Spot" ~Mike Phillips

-If the "Test Spot" shows that a less
aggressive product than M105 (such
as: Ultimate Compound; or even M205)
is doing the trick; then, again IMO:

-you have already reached the steps of
the graduation podium---the steps upon
the following is inscribed: Congratulations
on your upcoming graduation from the:
"School of How to Save a Lot of CC-paint!"

-Please step forward.


Bob
 
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